Not Another One !!! ... rejetting ...

[nancegt350]

Ok Ok. Before anyone else says "holy crap, it's the wiki" I've already looked at the wiki  . I just wanted to see if I could get some feed back on the newer  bikes.
I've got a '06 and I'm rejetting it for it's very first time and adding a K&N lunchbox filter.
Some people have said not to shim the needles on these because of the mid-main jets and the needles are more or less fixed.
Others say shim them anyway.

So what is it? For an '06 with just a lunchbox K&N, what jets / washers / screw turns do I need to run?

Thanks in Advance ...

[scratch]

The needles have grooves for a clip that you can move from groove to groove to raise or lower.  The mid-main is replaceable with larger sized jets.  You may not have to, but you can if needed.  With the luchbox, it is strongly suggested.

[bugcool]

Mate , most of the people here don't give a rats , because thay have heard it all b4 so, because i'm new-ish & went though a rejet as well & know some things ,  YOU WILL NOT GET IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME, so try 20-pilot thats better than stock by far then its up to you, how far $$$ can go & time & how good are you calling good enought. If you got time and some jets & 10 allan key bolts for the fuel bowls,  once thay are in you can do a jet change without takein the carbs off the bike but thay must come off first to do that. Then start with the main  145s  then 142.5s then 140s  give each a run at 6500rpm  then snap it fully open  whichever gives the best rip ya arms off feel is the ones you leave in there. Now the mid range is 62.5 to 65 jet do the same as with the main but between 1/4 throtle to 3/4 only, & between 3000rpm & 6000rpms only, pick best feeling one & leave it there. You should also have the float hight set first at the gasket line but + 1 or 2 mm above will do.  Now you should be on the money or close to it, the needle & or the air/fuel mix screw will do the rest.

[genEricStL]

 once thay are in you can do a jet change without takein the carbs off the bike but thay must come off first to do that

I'm not sure what you mean ... is there a way to reach in and get the jets out using an angled allen wrench ofterwards or something ?
btw - I'm STILL waiting for the bike mechanic dude to come help me with my rejet . I'll wait for the help too ... i've never been much on working on engines . Give me a couple million BTU boiler with a voltage problem or a 480volt 20ton rooftop A/C with problems and i'm happy as can be  .

[bugcool]

You can take the fuel bowl off after the alan key bolt are in, but the ones on the inside are tricky so i got longer ones and used a spacer to bring them down a bit to make it ezyer. Then you'll see the jets & thay come out with one of those short screwdriver bits & a small spanner that fits it.

[mach1]

If your not running an aftermarket can than you should go with 22.5/65/142.5 or 145. That would be a good start so you can go from their.

[Wrecent_Wryder]

Bugcool is right, you won't get it the first time.. or if you do, it'll be very, very lucky. Everyone here seems to want a definitive answer as to what jets and settings they need going in, so they can just do it once and know it's "right", but it just doesn't seem to work that way... unless you've got a pretty broad tolerance for "right". Some do.

You need to take the carbs out the first time to get the stock bowl screws out. Throw them away and replace them with socket heads. Believe me, after you get them out, you won't want them back in there.. or what's left of them. You'll also want to carefully drill and remove the plugs covering the mixture screws.

Some replace the bowl screws and then replace the jets with the carbs in the bike. I've done my jets like seven times now, but I always take the carbs out, I want to be able to see what I'm doing. Once you've done it a couple of times you can pretty much have the carbs out in 15 minutes, it's no huge deal. Might be a little more hassle on the '04+ bikes just because there are so many freakin hoses. The first time is daunting, after that it gets much easier.

Not to contradict Scratch, but as far as I know the stock needles in the US still have only one groove. You'll need to shim them with washers. The needle shims are sort of the fine-tuning of the jetting. If you re-jet and it's running well, but you still get a little "hunting" or a "flat spot" around 7-8k rpm, you probably need to shim the needles. If you've got really noticeable flat spots at multiple points in the RPM range, you're probably going to need two shims.

[nancegt350]

ok ... that helps ... kinda ...