Yay! It's aliiiiiiive.

[bosozoku]

Ordered some stock needles to replace the Dynojet ones that seemed to be in there.  Drilled out the slide restrictors that some Einstein has glued in there (just before breaking one pilot jet).  Jetted to 145 main, #40 pilots, 2 #4 washers under each needle (I have K&N lunchbox air filter, Yoshi can).  Replaced the carb diaphragms.  Synched the carbs.  After 1.5 months of futzing with the carbs, the bike finally has power.  In fact, it even got up a little power wheelie in 1st gear the first time I rode it.

Other mods -- forks springs are shimmed by 31mm, fork boots are installed to protect the seals.

BTW-  anyone want a set of Dynojet needles (used for probably 5k miles), my extra two #40 pilot jets, the old #37.5 pilot jets, and a whole mess of main jets?  $7 (incl. shipping) for any two pilot jets, $1 per main jet, and I'll send the Dynojet needles if you just pay shipping, since you couldn't pay ME to take them!

-b.

[scratch]

Glad you got your bike running! 

What kind of fork boots did you use?

[bosozoku]

Glad you got your bike running! 

What kind of fork boots did you use?

Thanks!  Daystar 30-40mm boots, bought from Bikebandit for $15/set.  Installing them was ... fun ... too, since the jack that was holding up the front end on the centerstand decided to have a leak...

-b.

[bucks1605]

I have the same pipe/air filter set up as you. I have the dynojet stage 3 kit on there and my bike runs like crap. Whenever I get in the upper rpm range it boggs down. I'm really getting fed up. I might try the set up you are running since its working for you.

[bosozoku]

I have the same pipe/air filter set up as you. I have the dynojet stage 3 kit on there and my bike runs like crap. Whenever I get in the upper rpm range it boggs down. I'm really getting fed up. I might try the set up you are running since its working for you.

If you keep it at high RPM, does it eventually even out?  If it does, the slide restrictors which come as part of the DynoJerk kit may not be allowing the carbs to respond quickly enough.  Drill one out and see if it improves things.

-b.

[bucks1605]

Yeah, the bogging does quit after a few seconds, I pulled one restrictor out from each slide this afternoon,  The bike seemed to accelerate and ride better, but I couldn't really take a long enough test ride because after it warmed up it started idling at 4000 rpm's. I tried adjusting the idle set screw but that didn't do anything. I turned it all the way down and it still idled at 4 grand. I know the throttle cable is adjusted properly, I guess it could be getting hung up. Could the high idle be the fuel/air mixture screws? I have them at 2 turns out like dynojet suggested.

[bucks1605]

Alright I've determined that it isn't the throttle binding up or the idle set screw. Even when the throttle was completely closed it still idled at 4000. So I'm thinking its the air/fuel mixture screws. They're at 2 turns out, should I take them to 3 or higher?