Help!!!! Front Fork Cap Bolts won't come out!!!

Started by substudio, July 15, 2007, 11:44:00 PM

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substudio

 :2guns:So I'm inching closer to making my project '93 GS roadworthy. Along the way I've begun making the attempt to replace my fork seals since they've been leaking from the time I bought the bike.

Everything has been going smoothly as I follow the instructions to my Clymer Manual until I real an Impasse in removing the Front Fork Caps.

I've had no problems loosening the Allen Bolt below, but the top Fork Seal Caps have been the toughest to remove. The instructions on the clymer manual instruct (pg. 328 #6) to "slowly unscrew the fork cap bolt."

And that's been my problem: I can't get the Fork cap bolt to even budge. Is there something I'm doing wrong?! :o  If it said to unscrew I've tried inserting a screwdriver into the slot, and all I've managed to do is round off the slot that suggests using a screwdriver.

Is there anyone who can help???

I can attach photos if needed but I need to try something.....

'93 Suzuki GS500e restoration project
been riding now for:  388 miles now

added an National Shield F-16 Sport
SS Brake Lines - Valves adjusted
Electric Tach from '05 GS
All new filters
Brake Pads
All New Cables
Rebuilt Carbs
Rebuilt Forks

Jay_wolf

A picture says 1000 words , i found when i had something round off a pic said exactly what it was
:thumb:
2001 Gs500 , Katana Gsx Front End, K3 Tank,, Full S S Predetor System ,Bandit Rear Hugger,Goodridge S S Break Lines ,  Belly Pan , , K+N LunchBox, Probolt Bolts, FSD Undertray With Built in Lights And Indicators. 
2008 Megelli 125 SM 14bhp
1996 Honda NSR 125cc 33bhp
2001 Mercades A160  115bhp

spc

Crap in your hand and throw it randomly at people................ even chimps can remove bolts :flipoff:

Seriously, get a pic of what your talking about........

dgyver

The caps require a 1/2" drive socket wrench to remove them. Hopefully they are not too damaged from using a screwdriver.
Common sense in not very common.

Wrecent_Wryder

Quote from: dgyver on July 16, 2007, 03:56:57 AM
The caps require a 1/2" drive socket wrench to remove them. Hopefully they are not too damaged from using a screwdriver.


Or, a 1/2" adapter for a 3/8" drive, which might be a much cheaper option if that's what you've got... they shouldn't require so much torque to remove that you'd really need a 1/2" wrench for that reason.

IF that's what he's talking about. I can't imagine why a square hole would suggest using a screwdriver.

"On hiatus" in reaction to out-of-control moderators, thread censorship and member bans, 7/31/07.
Your cure is worse than the disease.
Remember, no one HAS to contribute here.

dgyver

Yeah, a 1/2 x 3/8 adapter will work just fine.

I did not see anything in the manual about using a screwdriver. It did not mention using a 1/2" drive either.
Common sense in not very common.

Admiral Crunch

Put the fork back into the clamps that hold it to the bike.  They will hold it still while you break the cap bolts with a half-inch socket wrench or breaker bar.

substudio

Thanks,

Admiral Crunch and others who suggested to use the 1/2 socket wrench. I'll try that out.
'93 Suzuki GS500e restoration project
been riding now for:  388 miles now

added an National Shield F-16 Sport
SS Brake Lines - Valves adjusted
Electric Tach from '05 GS
All new filters
Brake Pads
All New Cables
Rebuilt Carbs
Rebuilt Forks

coll0412

Quote
I've had no problems loosening the Allen Bolt below, but the top Fork Seal Caps have been the toughest to remove. The instructions on the clymer manual instruct (pg. 328 #6) to "slowly unscrew the fork cap bolt."

Just because the Clymers says unscrew does not mean to use a screw driver(for future reference), if you are ever in doubt of what to do, just do a quick search on your topic and you will usually find something, its much better than destroying the part you are working on.
CRA #220

Admiral Crunch

Oh, you may have to move your handlebars out of the way to get at the tops of the forks, depending on the year of your bike.  You can just undo the bolts holding it down and slide it aside.  no need to undo any of the cabling or anything.

ben2go

for f@@k sake leave the bottom clamp tight and loosen the top clamp or you'll f@@k up the threads on the caps and fork tubes.yes it's a half inch drive and there shouldn't be more than about 25 foot pounds of torque on them.Really it shouldn't be more than 15.
PICS are GONE never TO return.

bosozoku

Quote from: ben2go on July 16, 2007, 08:42:40 PM
for f@@k sake leave the bottom clamp tight and loosen the top clamp or you'll f@@k up the threads on the caps and fork tubes.yes it's a half inch drive and there shouldn't be more than about 25 foot pounds of torque on them.Really it shouldn't be more than 15.

Cover the tank and clamps with an old blanket while doing this job.  Otherwise, you'll scratch things.

-b.

ben2go

Quote from: bosozoku on July 16, 2007, 08:49:27 PM
Quote from: ben2go on July 16, 2007, 08:42:40 PM
for f@@k sake leave the bottom clamp tight and loosen the top clamp or you'll f@@k up the threads on the caps and fork tubes.yes it's a half inch drive and there shouldn't be more than about 25 foot pounds of torque on them.Really it shouldn't be more than 15.

Cover the tank and clamps with an old blanket while doing this job.  Otherwise, you'll scratch things.

-b.

I just pay attention to what I'm doing.
PICS are GONE never TO return.

jeff721

To undo mine,  had to have a buddy hit it with a 1/2 inch impact wrench while I held it as tightly as I could. It took a little work.
93 Gs500e: Racetech 90kg springs, SV650 shock, SM1 bars...more in the works.

substudio

I tried to remove the fork cap bolts by placing them back on the bike but I have not luck.

So I finally decided to take them into my fave. parts shop (Parts unlimited Motorcycle salvage) and they loosened them for me in a few minutes..

whew... what a relief

it was a $10 well spent

I really need to get a real good vise and some place to put it in my garage.
But my project GS is all over the place right now.

:laugh:

Since I began disassembling the forks I noticed how worn the slider bushings were.

Now I'll have to wait for them to come in.

But at least the hardest part is over.

Thanks again.
'93 Suzuki GS500e restoration project
been riding now for:  388 miles now

added an National Shield F-16 Sport
SS Brake Lines - Valves adjusted
Electric Tach from '05 GS
All new filters
Brake Pads
All New Cables
Rebuilt Carbs
Rebuilt Forks

nastynate6695

you dont have to get a vise. just get a pipe wrench with a leather or rubber strap.  this will grip the tube without marring it.   then you can use the 1/2 drive to take the  cap off.    or if you want just loosen the cap before you remove the tubes from the triple tree...

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