Stock petcock is a piece of JUNK. :mad:

[Jenya]

That is true. The stock petcock can very easily be converted into the manual valve.

Here is the thread that talks about that with some of pictures I posted of what needs to be done.
Once converted, the notorious fuel starvation problem goes away for good, provided the rest of the fuel pathway is clean.

http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=19363.0

Jenya

[slowinthestraights]

Meh. To me, purchasing the Honda one for $24 beats,
A) buying JB weld
B) Messing around with the thing for 30+ minutes
C) having an overcomplicated, oversized, modified petcock

[yamahonkawazuki]

then there is always the option of using a pingle or is it pingel?

[slowinthestraights]

then there is always the option of using a pingle or is it pingel?

Pingel, and it is something like $75+. 

[Suzuk-E]

The vacuum is needed to prevent someone forgeting to turn off the fuel, which if they have bad float valves, the carbs will flood the motor.

The problem with the stock petcock is the check valve in the vacuum port. It will turn to goo from gas fumes and will partially or completely block the the vacuum, which is required to operate the diaphram to allow fuel to flow.

hmmm...I'm gonna check this out. This may be my problem.

[ben2go]

That is true. The stock petcock can very easily be converted into the manual valve.

Here is the thread that talks about that with some of pictures I posted of what needs to be done.
Once converted, the notorious fuel starvation problem goes away for good, provided the rest of the fuel pathway is clean.

http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=19363.0

Jenya

This is prolly the only thread I haven't posted yours and kerry's petcock mod.I have thought about doing it but running on a my petcock on pri is fine.The previous owner driled out the inside of the pri nipple.

[Chuck]

I'd always thought about going to a manual petcock, but for three things:

1. I've never had a problem, and
2. I don't remember things, and
3. If a float valve sticks and fills your engine with gas, your engine could be FREAKIN DESTROYED.

The odds of #3 are slim, but if you hydro lock a cylinder and grab some starter, you can break a piston rod real quick.  Or, if the gas gets into the crankcase other fun lack of lubrication problems could develop.

Since I'm not at all good at remembering things, I expect to leave a manual petcock turned on quite a bit.

Good advice about busting it apart and checking for problems.  Maybe this winter, since my '01 is 6 years old now.

[Chuck]

Oh I was thinking about another solution the other day.

My FZR has downdraft carbs which are by necessity above the fuel tank.  As a result, it uses a fuel pump that pressurizes the fuel lines to some minimal pressure (like 3psi or something).  When the float valves close, the pressure goes up and the pump automatically shuts off.  The pressure switch is internal to the pump itself, so there's only two wires going in.

The pump runs any time the ignition computer thinks the engine is running, or supposedly for 3 seconds after the key is turned on.

There's no reason (that I can think of) that you couldn't do something like this on any bike, just drive the pump off a on-at-the-right-time circuit.  (Ignition key and or engine killswitch or something.)

So then your overflow safety would be electrically driven instead of vacuum driven.  If the fuel pump fails, you need only to bypass the fuel pump and gravity feed it to get home.  You could have a valve for this, or just do a field repair type of thing.

You could eBay a fuel pump from pretty much any carbed bike and try it.  Or maybe I will and post about it, if I find some weekend that my wife won't be mad at me for spending it in the garage.

Edit: I just realized that this would only work if fuel doesn't pass through a deactivated fuel pump.

[dgyver]

How about an electric solenoid? Not sure if they are available for fuel service though.

[bubba zanetti]

How about an electric solenoid? Not sure if they are available for fuel service though.

I've been thinking the same thing, so you only get fuel flow when you turn the ignition on.

[Chuck]

This was all I was able to find in 2 minutes of searching. 

http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/ModelAParts/GasTank/4008

[bubba zanetti]

The other thought I had is that when you have the petcock in the off position that it lit up a red led on your dash, when in the pri position it lit up a green led. Would something like this be possible, that way you could tell just by looking at the dash if your fuel was good to go. 

[bosozoku]

The other thought I had is that when you have the petcock in the off position that it lit up a red led on your dash, when in the pri position it lit up a green led. Would something like this be possible, that way you could tell just by looking at the dash if your fuel was good to go. 

Sure, epoxy a magnet to the end of the petcock handle as well as two reed switches in strategic locations.

-b.

[Chuck]

Looking at the options, I think buying a brand new OEM vacuum petcock assembly for $60 every ten years sounds fine. 

Come to think of it, no one seems to have complained about fuel starvation on a 01+ that I recall.  That could just be because they are newer and not all junked up yet, or that they're better.  (I'm certain they are different.)  The mounting looks slightly different, but it should be no problem putting a 01 petcock on an earlier bike.

[bosozoku]

Looking at the options, I think buying a brand new OEM vacuum petcock assembly for $60 every ten years sounds fine. 

Come to think of it, no one seems to have complained about fuel starvation on a 01+ that I recall.  That could just be because they are newer and not all junked up yet, or that they're better.  (I'm certain they are different.)  The mounting looks slightly different, but it should be no problem putting a 01 petcock on an earlier bike.

This doesn't change the fact that the petcock design is stupid and quite dangerous IMHO.  If a hose between the tank and fuel control valve slips off, you can't just turn the petcock off to stop the leak.  And are you really going to fiddle with removing the tank to turn off the screw type chicken while gas is schpritzing all over the place?!?!  I know there isn't room for a petcock directly on the tank, but Suzuki could have put an electric valve there instead, linked to oil pressure except whilst priming.  No oil pressure, the fuel flow should be cut off to avoid a flood in case of an accident with the motor stopping.

-b.

[Chuck]

Sadly that's nothing you can fix without buying another bike.  I think the odds are slim of disconnecting a fuel line in most accident scenarios that leave the fuel tank attached to the frame.  Certainly not as high as the odds of me forgetting to turn the valve off prime when I get to the office 20 minutes late.

[bosozoku]

Sadly that's nothing you can fix without buying another bike.

Two electrovalves connected to the tank nipples by way of short hoses, a 3-position switch, and a y-junction?  Should be easy...

-b.

[MikeNW]

ANOTHER OPTION

I own a Concours, so by association, am a cheap bastard.   
Concours has the dreaded vacuum petcock too. 
I went to True Value lawnmower section, bought a stupid little plastic 90 degree in-line shut-off valve for lawnmowers, and installed it after the petcock. 
Only a couple of bucks.

Cheap enough to replace every year. 

Concours tank is high, and holds 7.5 gallons- that's a lot of gasoline to leak past a faulty float valve, many people have experienced the thrill of cranking an engine, when one or more cylinders are full of liquid gasoline.     
(Connecting rods aren't supposed to be banana-shaped, right?   

[bosozoku]

I went to True Value lawnmower section, bought a stupid little plastic 90 degree in-line shut-off valve for lawnmowers, and installed it after the petcock. 

And just plug the main nipple on the tank, only using reserve and keeping good track of the odometer?

-b.

[simoniz]

Here's the Honda gas tap that we have been talking about - mine came in tonight at the dealers after I ordered it Wednesday evening.

and here it is next to the original Suzuki one.

There is a locating ridge on the rear of the Honda one that will need to be ground down for a good fit, and I found I will need some more fuel line as the stock length is now too short. The main feed line to the carbs exits at the rear of the Honda tap. The Honda one has a nice big handle to hold onto, bigger than the Suzuki one.