My Brand New Charging system doesnt charge.

[adidasguy]

Why are you even bringing it up then?

Seems you were assuming I didn't know what a full wave bridge rectifier was. Another time you didn't seem to understand my changing the rubber dampener that is around the gauges, from an old, squished, hardened ring to new, softer ones for getting rid of gauge rattle.

OK, I'll bow out of this one. I don't seem to be contributing anything.

[rayshon]

Bro come back and pull hard for the 10 and put some riders to sleep

[XealotX]

Bro come back and pull hard for the 10 and put some riders to sleep

What does this mean?

[numus]

Why are you even bringing it up then?

Seems you were assuming I didn't know what a full wave bridge rectifier was. Another time you didn't seem to understand my changing the rubber dampener that is around the gauges, from an old, squished, hardened ring to new, softer ones for getting rid of gauge rattle.

OK, I'll bow out of this one. I don't seem to be contributing anything.

The only thing I brought up in that other topic was i did the same thing and it didn't fix the rattle for me. It was those stems in the back wouldn't tighten so some washers put pressure on the gauge housing and stopped it for me. Sorry for trying to help by sharing something I tried and solved the problem I thought you were trying to fix.

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk

[Kijona]

Bro come back and pull hard for the 10 and put some riders to sleep

What does this mean?

Somebody forgot where they were temporarily.

[Bmarc]

I will try to answer all these questions tomorrow.  The battery was not done by the time I was heading out of the garage.  I like these attitudes fellas we will get this problem solved!!!   I will also take my camera in with me for detailed more pictures.

[Bmarc]

My last post is a prime example of why you dont drink and get on your computer.  So here is todays current plan.  I am using a craftsman digital multi meter.  I believe it is capable of everything you have  asked me to do.  My ability to use it properly is what we should be questioning. 

Adidas I will be checking the voltage to the battery.  I will give you reading at the terminals.  And coming off the RR.  I will also tell you what it is at idle as well as the 5000 rpm test.

Numus I have at my disposal both this multimeter and a power probe.  I avoid the probe because im a button pusher by nature and the last thing I want to do is juice somethng by accident.  What setting should I be looking for on the multimeter to test continuity I was using ohms. 

Please keep in mind I do not know electric so this discussion has been my crash course.  And my manual seems to be being held up by everyones vermont teddys bears.

[numus]

My last post is a prime example of why you dont drink and get on your computer.  So here is todays current plan.  I am using a craftsman digital multi meter.  I believe it is capable of everything you have  asked me to do.  My ability to use it properly is what we should be questioning. 

Adidas I will be checking the voltage to the battery.  I will give you reading at the terminals.  And coming off the RR.  I will also tell you what it is at idle as well as the 5000 rpm test.

Numus I have at my disposal both this multimeter and a power probe.  I avoid the probe because im a button pusher by nature and the last thing I want to do is juice somethng by accident.  What setting should I be looking for on the multimeter to test continuity I was using ohms. 

Please keep in mind I do not know electric so this discussion has been my crash course.  And my manual seems to be being held up by everyones vermont teddys bears.

You will be looking for a setting that either shows a diode diagram or a speaker or both...
the diode diagram looks like ->|- and the speaker o))) ... It is a simple setting... All it does is display what the continuity across a section is... It should read either 1.0 or 100 or something when you touch the probes together (and some will make a beeping sound). As the continuity decreases (due to breaks or increases in resistance or breaks in continiuty caused by random corrision) the value should decrease and if it has sound the beeps should start to break up or sound different.

Based upon the original stuff you posted... You are going to want to go back to the generator and do a no-continuity check over all the generator wires (the yellow 1-3) and a good known ground point (you can ground it right to the negative battery terminate if you want)... The continuity should read 0... If you show continuity then you have a ground in the generator...
Also check all the yellow cables for continiuty with themselves (y1-y2, y2-y3, y3-y1)... They should show full continiuty or close to full.

[Bmarc]

I know the beeping setting lol just kidding I used that setting when I did the diode test earlier and I believe it will be very important.  I fully charged my battery and did the V DC reading on my multi meter.  At the terminals at 5000rpms 12.73-12.74  At the RR connector plug 13.75.  I believe this narrows me down.  I am going to do the continuity tests on everything in between the two.  Could the solenoid itself be bad?  Maybe re clean all those connections.  Thats the current plan of attack.  Id like to stay stock but I remember something about a bypass? 

[Rydar]

my manual seems to be being held up by everyones vermont teddys bears.

lol
i just imagined teddy bears with guns robbing a manual. 

[Paulcet]

At the terminals at 5000rpms 12.73-12.74  At the RR connector plug 13.75.  I believe this narrows me down. 

That's a problem. Clean those connections. Sometimes the metal connectors lose their spring and become loose. Replace or bypass as needed. (I would replace or repair)

[numus]

I know the beeping setting lol just kidding I used that setting when I did the diode test earlier and I believe it will be very important.  I fully charged my battery and did the V DC reading on my multi meter.  At the terminals at 5000rpms 12.73-12.74  At the RR connector plug 13.75.  I believe this narrows me down.  I am going to do the continuity tests on everything in between the two.  Could the solenoid itself be bad?  Maybe re clean all those connections.  Thats the current plan of attack.  Id like to stay stock but I remember something about a bypass?

Yup sounds like the primary connector is probably bad... It is attached to the starter solenoid and uses the solenoid positive terminal connection to the battery... Your fuse is also located inside it.. I doubt the solenoid itself is bad since it doesn't actually have anything to do with the power system. It is just were they mounted the connector and used the positive terminal line

13.75 is still a little on the low side for the output from the rectifier tho... Try at 6k... Your tach may be off



If you have to bypass that connector it is really simple... There are 2 red lines that feed into it (one off the rectifier and the other off the ignition switch)... Cut them from the connector (at the solenoid connection that leads into the fuse) and tie both those wires into a 12-10 gauge inline fuse holder and put a terminal ring on the other side of the fuse holder.. Then simply insert a 20A fuse into the holder and screw the terminal ring into the positive terminal of the battery...

Did you double check the no-continuity from generator lead wires to ground? You really need to redo that just to verify there isn't an intermittent ground in the generator like the original numbers you reported said... This would cause a decrease in the AC output

[Bmarc]

I am getting continuity when grounding out y1 y2 y3 coming off the stator at the connection point on the left side of the bike.  I am still with out clymer.   Is there seperate wiring coming from the alternator?  I think I am gonna attempt the bypass I have come to the conclusion it cant hurt even if it doesnt fix the problem. 

[numus]

I am getting continuity when grounding out y1 y2 y3 coming off the stator at the connection point on the left side of the bike.  I am still with out clymer.   Is there seperate wiring coming from the alternator?  I think I am gonna attempt the bypass I have come to the conclusion it cant hurt even if it doesnt fix the problem.

Time to take the generator apart and look for a loose wire or something causing a ground contact...
Continuity from the generator lead wires to ground would cause a decrease in AC output, which would lead to a decrease in DC output from the rectifier.

[woombaat]

Sorry, it might be a bit late answering, but I had the exact same issues with my GS.

Done every test to check the charging system and everything was OK! Resistance, AC Voltage, Stator, Regulator/Rectifier, Pickups, everything. Yet when I revved up the bike the reading within the battery terminals dropped down to 12.2V on idle it was about 12.6V with a fresh battery. The lights would flicker on idle and even dim at 5000 rpm.

When the engine was off (key off, all accessories unplugged) I have measured a significant current drain from the battery. There was a short in the Starter Solenoid which was intermittent and sometimes didn't affect the bike at all, on other occasions it would drain the battery in hours and also resulting in this no charge issue.

Before you spend lots of £s or $s buying a new reg, stator, etc. replace the Starter solenoid!!! Luckily in my case it turned out to be an inexpensive but very annoying fix. 

Hope this helps.

[crzydood17]

if that ^^^ fixes it I will laugh at all the Rooster measuring that went on in this thread and laugh.