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kickstand switch/clutch switch problems

Started by Somnia, September 08, 2007, 03:35:46 PM

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Somnia

I finally got my bike lowered, and i can ride around comfortably now :)

However, when I stopped, I decided to adjust the kickstand and the rearview mirror a bit.  Now the bike won't start.  I'm not sure if it's the kickstand switch (is there one?) or the clutch switch, but I'm guessing it's an ignition safety switch as the bike doesn't even attempt to start when I hit the starter but the lights are strong.

Even though the kickstand was bent to compensate for the lowered bike, it was a bit long, so my friend tried to "adjust" it a bit by putting the kickstand down and then rocking on the bike a little.  I think he loosened it up a bit, cuz now when I put the kickstand up, it hangs off the bike (away from the body, not toward the ground) a little, and you can push it into the bike (was it like that before?).  Also, we "adjusted" the mirror with a similar forceful method.  The mirror is attached to the same thing as the clutch lever, so they both got jostled a bit.  We tried messing with the wires coming from the clutch while trying to start it to see if it was a short, but we had no luck.

So I guess I have a couple of questions:  normally, how do the ignition safety switches work?  I noticed you always have to have the clutch pulled in to start.  What about the kickstand?  I've started it in neutral with kickstand down, and in first or neutral with the kickstand up.  Are there certain combinations where it doesn't work?

More importantly, how can I easily diagnose or rule out a problem with either one of these switches?  We're gonna push start the bike back home (I didn't wanna push start it because I'm still having trouble not stalling  :oops: ) later, so I can look at it there.  I know absolutely nothing about motorcycle wiring, so let's start from there.  Also, are there any other possible problems?  The battery may be weak from all the stalling and starting, but I would have thought the starter would at least click if it was a battery problem.

starwalt

#1
Wow, that's a lot of questions!

In short, yes there is a side-stand switch.  If I can find John Bates' simplified starter circuit diagram, I will post it here shortly.

CLICK HERE for Kerry's scanned Haynes schematic.  The side stand switch is in the upper left.

Still looking for the Bates simplified starter circuit....Bates' schematic is AWOL. His earlier links to Earthlink don't work anymore. Probably changed ISP and didn't move the pics for relinking. I may have it on my machine...nope.

I may have to make another one if I can't find it. His was very easy to follow.
FOUND IT!
Had to go through a back tracking process, but here it is...



This is another example for making the interactive GS wiring project that DLW and I are kicking around.
-=Doug......   IT ≠ IQ.

God save us from LED turn signal mods!

Get an Ebay GS value  HERE.

1990 GS running, 1990 GS work-in-progress, 1990 basket case.
The trend here is entropy

CndnMax

If its the kickstand interlock it would still start in neutral but would die once u put it in gear. if its not the kickstand interlock and it push starts your next step would be to look at the clutch interlock.

starwalt

#3
What CndnMax says is correct. There are a couple of places for problems.

Take a look at Bates' simplified diagram (above) for more information.
-=Doug......   IT ≠ IQ.

God save us from LED turn signal mods!

Get an Ebay GS value  HERE.

1990 GS running, 1990 GS work-in-progress, 1990 basket case.
The trend here is entropy

Somnia

Thanks for the help.  I will check it out today.  Hopefully it's the clutch interlock (or something else that allows us to at least push start the bike). 

ben2go

Pull the wires on the switch that you think is bad and run a jumper wire between them.Then see if the bike starts normally.If it does you know that switch is bad.
PICS are GONE never TO return.

Somnia

It was the clutch switch.  Since it is so easy to bypass the switch, I decided to "test" it by just bypassing it.  And it started.  Well the battery was flat, but it tried to start which meant I found the problem  :icon_lol:  We gave it a push start, and I was off.  Thanks for the help!

btw, I bypassed the switch by tracing the wire from the clutch to behind the headlight.  Just as someone on the forums said (in another post), there were nice little splicers connecting the wires to the ignition circuit.  I was able to just disconnect the wires to the clutch and close teh circuit using the splicers.

I may replace the clutch switch later, but I'm very conscious about holding the clutch everytime I start (even from neutral), so I think I'll be ok.

ben2go

Quote from: Somnia on September 09, 2007, 08:10:52 PM
It was the clutch switch.  Since it is so easy to bypass the switch, I decided to "test" it by just bypassing it.  And it started.  Well the battery was flat, but it tried to start which meant I found the problem  :icon_lol:  We gave it a push start, and I was off.  Thanks for the help!

btw, I bypassed the switch by tracing the wire from the clutch to behind the headlight.  Just as someone on the forums said (in another post), there were nice little splicers connecting the wires to the ignition circuit.  I was able to just disconnect the wires to the clutch and close teh circuit using the splicers.

I may replace the clutch switch later, but I'm very conscious about holding the clutch everytime I start (even from neutral), so I think I'll be ok.

I am building a GS and I plan to use the factory safety devices.
PICS are GONE never TO return.

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