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Clutch cover gasket replacement

Started by JerGStwinguy, September 17, 2007, 08:33:53 PM

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JerGStwinguy

Hello, we are new here, I am JerGStwinguy the humble husband and mechanic for CharGStwingirl.  Several months after buying this 2000 GS500 oil started appearing on and around the top and side of the cover.  My question is if I take off all the bolts will the cover just slide off?  Is there anything behind the points cover that I have to unbolt to change this gasket?  I am hoping that like my 85 Madura 1200 the cover will just pop off.  I am also going to put in the new progressive front fork springs this weekend, anything I should know about this?  Anyone done them before that wants to save me from any pit falls.  Looking forward to talking to you all soon.

ahsta

DrtRydr23

I recently replaced my clutch, and in doing so removed the side casing.  There are a couple things you have to do to get the casing to come off.  I'd get a Clymer or Haynes manual before you tear into it too much.  It's not difficult to do, but I can't remember everything off hand.  A repair manual makes it go a lot more easily.  Also, I don't know the names of all the parts behind the points cover, but there are pieces that have to come out.  If you look under the do it yourself timing advancer tutorial in the "modifications" link on the main page, it will give you some idea of what has to come out.  I haven't done the progressives yet, but there are plenty of people that have.  You could check the Wiki (look in the stickies in this forum for a link), check the mods link on the main page, or do a search to find more info.  I've got progressives to install as well, just trying to find the time to do it.  I'm thinking about a handlebar swap soon, so I might put the springs in then.  When you change the clutch cover gasket you may want to buy an oil seal as well.  After I changed mine, I developed a leak from the seal (which is coincidentally located behind the points cover) and I will have to take the side cover back off to replace it.  I think they are 5 bucks on bikebandit.com.  Lastly, don't forget to drain the oil before removing the side casing.

John
1997 GS 500E, Black:  Fenderectomy, Superbike bars, progressive springs, Cobra F1R slipon, short stalk turn signals. - SOLD

2008 SV650, Blue, K&N in airbox, otherwise stock

dgyver

Basic replacement. Just remember that there are a couple of bolts behind the signal generator that need to be removed. There are a couple of pry tabs to assist in removing the cover. Make sure the channel to the oil pressure sensor is clean and clear or any debris. I never had to replace the crank seal but it probably has never been replaced, easy time to do it with the cover off. 

Common sense in not very common.

JerGStwinguy

The bike only has 8k on it do you really think the crank seal needs to be replaced?

The Kevlar Kid

If it's not leaking now it'll be fine. Just oil it up a little to help ot slide on easy - you don't want the seal to pucker. If it does ease it back carefully with a feeler gauge.

Removal's easy - drain oil, remove ignition cover, remove rotor (holdit still with a 17mm spanner and then undo the centre smaller nut), remove the plate (two screws) leaving the pickups screwed to it, remove the couple of bolts behind this and then the ring of bolts round the perimiter of the cover, tap gently with a rubber mallet - off it comes.

Dont worry about removing the timing parts - it's a fixed timing system so they can't be put back wrong :o
The Best Trick The Devil Ever Played, Was To Convince The Wold He Didn't Exist.

JerGStwinguy

Thanks KK, everything went well, but when we went out for the shake down cruise, the rotor bolt backed out on the road and almost popped out the hole behind the Suzuki emblem.  Fortunately all I had to do was find the tools and tighten it back.  Why did this back out?  I have since put it back with a little blue loctite and am waiting for it to cure.

Thanks for your help


coll0412

QuoteThanks KK, everything went well, but when we went out for the shake down cruise, the rotor bolt backed out on the road and almost popped out the hole behind the Suzuki emblem.  Fortunately all I had to do was find the tools and tighten it back.  Why did this back out?  I have since put it back with a little blue loctite and am waiting for it to cure.

It happens sometimes, I wish I would have seen this post earlier, but its always recommmended that you put some loctite on the bolt.
CRA #220

Kasumi

Would be a relatively easy fix, don't know why Suzuki hasn't bothered to do something about it.
Custom Kawasaki ZXR 400

JerGStwinguy

Well, the loctite seemed to work well.  CharGStwingirl and I went out for a cruise up to Cambria, Ca and out to Montana de Oro them back to Santa Maria.  All in all about 180 miles and everything stayed where it was supposed to be.  The oil leak seems to have been eradicated.  I still thought I saw a minute trail from the dipstick, but I put a new o-ring on it.  It just dosent seem to seat until the screw top bottoms out, doesnt seem thick enough.  But I am still happy with the result.

Thanks for all your help


Jer :icon_mrgreen:

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