new here and just bought an 89 GS500

[bobthebiker]

well, I"m a new guy here, and being this place is dedicated to the GS500,  I"m hoping over time you guys(and girls) can help me out as I need assistance with my ride. 

as it stands, its a streetfighter project and a work in progress.    its not my first bike, though it IS my first suzuki, and coming off a kawasaki 500R, this is a dream in simplicity.   all I need is a new GSXR 600 brake lever(02 gixxer front forks and triple clamps plus wheel and accessories on it) and a new chain+sprockets to be set to ride.

I hope to be able to help out a little here and there when  I can, and get the answers to my questions as I need help.

my only major question right now, is what known issues are there with the 89's?   not that I mind any, I've got a complete spare motor if I blow this one up.

[scottpA_GS]

Welcome 

Be sure and post pics of your project 

[bobthebiker]

Here's a pic of the front of this bike.  right now it really looks like some kind of stuntbike or something, but I'm fabricating a headlight that looks way cooler and mounts to the forks soon.  yes those are different forks from another bike too.


oh does anyone know what the float height should be set at?  numbers are VERY helpful right now since my bike is running way rich and I know my floats are out of whack.

[Prafeston]

You didn't post a picture!

[bobthebiker]

You didn't post a picture!

yes I did.    after you mentioned it.

[GeeP]

Welcome! 

Add a new chain to your list of things to buy.   

[DrtRydr23]

I think float height is between 13.6 to 14.6 mm.  I've got my clymer out in the garage, but I'm to lazy to go look it up.

[bobthebiker]

Welcome! 

Add a new chain to your list of things to buy.   

thanks for the tip, its already on the list though.   this shall be named Frankenstein,  being the front end is from an 05 ninja 636, not a gsxr, as I was originally told.    I need a new front and rear tire too, along with fuel lines.     

I appreciate the info on float height,  I went out earlier today and messed with them a little, doesnt make ANY difference whatsoever, so I'm going to try something else,  like a carb rebuild.

[GeeP]

When you disassemble your carbs, here are a couple things you can check:

Make sure you have one notch needles instead of four notch dynojet needles.  (The four notch needles allow repositioning of the circlip, but also have a much more aggressive taper.)  The stock needles should be shimmed about 2mm with one or two washers, depending on thickness.

Check the slides to see if the compensation ports on the bottom of the slide are not plugged.  Some people have plugged them in an attempt to make them rise faster.  The result is a wet bogging between 4,000 and 5,000 RPM and all-over slow throttle response as they rise too quickly.

Check your jet sizes.  40 pilot and 150 main is about right if you have a K&N filter and an aftermarket tuned exhaust like a Vance & Hines.

That should get you started.  My guess is the previous owner was in the carbs and got it all screwed up. 

[Jay_wolf]

Such a clean , neat front end, and the rest of the bike is well rusty 

Good luck dude!

[bobthebiker]

That should get you started.  My guess is the previous owner was in the carbs and got it all screwed up. 

you guessed dead on.  I looked some more, the needles that are in the slides, move independently of the slide, which is causing the problem, so I have to find the proper part to make them stay PUT.  then I should be ok.

[GeeP]

Bob, the needle drops into the slide and is held in place only by gravity.  The needle with fall out of the slide when you turn it upside-down.

If you don't have a Clymer's manual I'd order one.  It will make things much easier.

Also, you can check the Illustrated Parts Catalog pages at ronayers.com to be sure everything is in there.   

[DrtRydr23]

The needles are held in place by a spring.  That should keep them from moving independently from the slides.

[bobthebiker]

if I had a set of CVKs layin around, you can bet I'd be putting em in right now just to make the thing run well.  to me, mikuni carbs are needlessly complicated, and quite frustrating. 


I'm highly tempted to go to a shop, but at the same time I'm broke, so yeah, no chance of that.

[GeeP]

heh, that's what I thought when I first started working with them.  After a few tries I figured out what was going on in there.  (It helped that I had a second set to study.)  What makes things complicated is when previous owners go in to "hot rod" and change all the baseline settings, leave out parts, etc.

Have you taken them completely apart yet?

[bobthebiker]

yeah, my next step, is a complete rebuild of the freakin things with stock jets, it seems like it runs completely fine at low rpms, but when you get it to around 6k+ it seems like it just took a crap and wont go.  what I'm going to do, is order up the stock jets from ron ayers, put those in, get it running RIGHT, since it seems fine at lower rpms.  while I'm in there, I'm gonna reset the floats, AGAIN. 

being that the front end is a 636, and the PO drilled holes in the muffler (presumably for more power) I wouldnt doubt a jet kit was done and overdone too.

[GeeP]

That's a good start.  You might have a look at this thread if you have any non-stock intake or exhaust components fitted to give you an idea of what to expect:

http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=4865.0

Another little carb trick:  After you reinstall the float bowls, gently shake the carbs up and down.  If you can hear the floats rattle you can be sure they are't stuck against the float bowl or the needles jammed in the closed position.  More than once I've saved myself half an hour of frustration after jamming a float.   

[bobthebiker]

I wouldnt have ever even THOUGHT of that trick.   if jets dont work, my next step is to go ape and beat my head into the wall until I"m out cold. my shop has this absolutely LOVELY concrete block wall to do that with too.

[Kasumi]

Learning to play with carbs can take years of experience but even a novice can do a good job with abit of info and ALOT of patience. The only downside is the huge amount of patience required to get them right however if you had EFI you would be more pissed when that went out the window and you had no option to take it to a shop where they DO charge you a fortune because they know you have no chance of sorting it yourself.

[bobthebiker]

the thing I like about carbs is, they work well when tuned right, and they can semi work if clogged, which is still enough to get you home.   EFI I think is ok, but its one of those, it works or it doesnt things.    though just as with a car, you can still sort it out with enough time and patience, or some friends who work in shops and know what they're doing.