Quick Winterizing Question..

[Yev]

Here's my background: I'm Yevgeniy.. Hi. I'm a new rider and also a new owner of a 2007 GS500F. I just bought it on Oct. 2, 2007 brand new (00 miles). I've read up on how to winterize and store the motorcycle. Most, if not all, of the article I read advised me to change my oil & filter before storing.

Here's my question though: I have only put 150 or so miles on the bike since I got it... should I still change my oil and filter before I winterize/store it?? Or should I leave the oil in there and change it when I take the motorcycle out of storage? (It will be stored in my garage)

Any input is greatly appreciate,
-Yev

[ajaxgs]

myself i would leave it in and change in spring ,or change it out now and to get rid of any metal particals from break in, i do oil changes every 2000km oil/filter cheep 

[GeeP]

The reason for changing the oil before storage is that as the engine operates small amounts of acid are produced.  Over time, the acids build up in the oil causing the Ph to rise.  If acidic oil is left in an engine for long periods it can cause rust to form.

With only 150 miles on the bike, there really shouldn't be a problem with leaving it as-is.  However, I would be inclined to run the engine until warm and change the oil.  Then you'll be all set for spring. 

[Yev]

The reason for changing the oil before storage is that as the engine operates small amounts of acid are produced.  Over time, the acids build up in the oil causing the Ph to rise.  If acidic oil is left in an engine for long periods it can cause rust to form.

With only 150 miles on the bike, there really shouldn't be a problem with leaving it as-is.  However, I would be inclined to run the engine until warm and change the oil.  Then you'll be all set for spring. 

So it would be alright for me to leave the oil in there for the winter and just change it out for the spring?

[gaspy]

However, I would be inclined to run the engine until warm and change the oil.   

GeeP, what do you plan on doing? I see you're in IL, which is pretty cold, colder than NY, but close enough.

[DrtRydr23]

The reason for changing the oil before storage is that as the engine operates small amounts of acid are produced.  Over time, the acids build up in the oil causing the Ph to rise.  If acidic oil is left in an engine for long periods it can cause rust to form.

With only 150 miles on the bike, there really shouldn't be a problem with leaving it as-is.  However, I would be inclined to run the engine until warm and change the oil.  Then you'll be all set for spring. 

How is storing the bike for a couple months any worse than normal?  The same oil is left in the engine whether it is being stored for two months or rode for two months.  I could see if you were going to store it for a year or something (when you would normally do an oil change or two), but I can't imagine there being a problem if you are going to ride it again in 2 or 3 months.

To the TS, since it's a new engine you might as well change it.  I think most new bikes require an oil change after the first 500 to 700 miles anyway to clear out metal shavings, etc from breaking it in.  Although, I'd still change it again/take it to the dealer for service at the first recommended service interval (I'm not sure how many miles that is supposed to be, I bought mine pretty used).

[manofthefield]

How is storing the bike for a couple months any worse than normal?  The same oil is left in the engine whether it is being stored for two months or rode for two months.  I could see if you were going to store it for a year or something (when you would normally do an oil change or two), but I can't imagine there being a problem if you are going to ride it again in 2 or 3 months.

Because most of the oil will drain to the bottom of the engine, leaving a very thin film (if any) oil on on most parts... thus leaving them more open to corrosion.  When you ride more often, the oil gets moved around regularly, leaving parts coated.

I change my oil every fall before putting the bike away, regardless of miles since last change, though I usually try to time it so there's at least one or two thousand miles since my last change.  At only 150 miles it's questionable, but I'd be inclined to change it since it's breaking in, and you want to get the metal shavings out of the engine anyway.

[GeeP]

GeeP, what do you plan on doing? I see you're in IL, which is pretty cold, colder than NY, but close enough.

I ride year 'round unless the roads are icy.  Heated gear is a miracle.   

Because most of the oil will drain to the bottom of the engine, leaving a very thin film (if any) oil on on most parts... thus leaving them more open to corrosion.  When you ride more often, the oil gets moved around regularly, leaving parts coated.

I change my oil every fall before putting the bike away, regardless of miles since last change, though I usually try to time it so there's at least one or two thousand miles since my last change.  At only 150 miles it's questionable, but I'd be inclined to change it since it's breaking in, and you want to get the metal shavings out of the engine anyway.

Precisely. 

To sum things up:  If you don't have the time, or you'll have to pay a dealer $75 for the service, don't bother.  If you have an afternoon to spare, the filter, O-ring, and a Clymer's manual to guide you, dive in.  You'll need to learn how eventually.  After break-in, change every 3,000 miles. 

[Yev]

GeeP, what do you plan on doing? I see you're in IL, which is pretty cold, colder than NY, but close enough.

I ride year 'round unless the roads are icy.  Heated gear is a miracle.   

Because most of the oil will drain to the bottom of the engine, leaving a very thin film (if any) oil on on most parts... thus leaving them more open to corrosion.  When you ride more often, the oil gets moved around regularly, leaving parts coated.

I change my oil every fall before putting the bike away, regardless of miles since last change, though I usually try to time it so there's at least one or two thousand miles since my last change.  At only 150 miles it's questionable, but I'd be inclined to change it since it's breaking in, and you want to get the metal shavings out of the engine anyway.

Precisely. 

To sum things up:  If you don't have the time, or you'll have to pay a dealer $75 for the service, don't bother.  If you have an afternoon to spare, the filter, O-ring, and a Clymer's manual to guide you, dive in.  You'll need to learn how eventually.  After break-in, change every 3,000 miles. 

I think I shall change my oil then. In regards to the Clymer's manual, the latest I see is up to 2002 (through the website at least). Is there anything more up to date since I have an '07? I would like to order a manual ASAP so I can get to learning about my bike

[DrtRydr23]

Because most of the oil will drain to the bottom of the engine, leaving a very thin film (if any) oil on on most parts... thus leaving them more open to corrosion.  When you ride more often, the oil gets moved around regularly, leaving parts coated.

This still doesn't seem to make sense.  That light film of oil (or no oil) will still be there after an oil change.  It's not like you pour oil onto the cams and valves when you change it.  You just drain it, change the filter, and poor it back into the casing.  That won't change the oil that is left on the top end parts (where the film would be as the bottom end is where the oil is stored).  Even if you run the engine a bit after changing the oil to distribute some around, the oil will just drain back off leaving little to no oil and the possibility of corrosion.

[GeeP]

I think I shall change my oil then. In regards to the Clymer's manual, the latest I see is up to 2002 (through the website at least). Is there anything more up to date since I have an '07? I would like to order a manual ASAP so I can get to learning about my bike

Good question!  I have an E-model, so I'm not sure what the F owners are doing.  Hopefully an F owner will chime in with an answer shortly.

[manofthefield]

This still doesn't seem to make sense.  That light film of oil (or no oil) will still be there after an oil change.  It's not like you pour oil onto the cams and valves when you change it.  You just drain it, change the filter, and poor it back into the casing.  That won't change the oil that is left on the top end parts (where the film would be as the bottom end is where the oil is stored).  Even if you run the engine a bit after changing the oil to distribute some around, the oil will just drain back off leaving little to no oil and the possibility of corrosion.

I run it again, like you suggest, so that the fresh oil will coat the engine parts, rather than the old acidic oil.  It's not perfect, but better.  Best solution is to ride year round like Geep

[gaspy]

I think I shall change my oil then. In regards to the Clymer's manual, the latest I see is up to 2002 (through the website at least). Is there anything more up to date since I have an '07? I would like to order a manual ASAP so I can get to learning about my bike

Good question!  I have an E-model, so I'm not sure what the F owners are doing.  Hopefully an F owner will chime in with an answer shortly.

I have a 2005 F model, and I bought the only Clymer available, the one that goes up to the 2002 model. I'm not very mechanically adept, but I've read that there are minimal differences between the E and F models: full fairing, oil cooler, something about slightly taller seat height and ground clearance. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, but I think you're fine with that manual, and I doubt Clymer will release a new one if they haven't yet.

- G

[Yev]

Hey guys, should I change the oil filter as well? (Since I'm going to put junk oil in for storing and change it out for good oil in the spring time). Or should I put a new oil filter in with the "good spring-time oil"?

[DrtRydr23]

Hey guys, should I change the oil filter as well? (Since I'm going to put junk oil in for storing and change it out for good oil in the spring time). Or should I put a new oil filter in with the "good spring-time oil"?

Judging from the post earlier, putting in oil that has already been run through an engine would have the same acid build up that the oil that is already in your oil.  If you're going to put in old oil, you might as well not change it at all.

If you decided to put in new oil, change the filter as it might contaminate the new oil.