Front fork seal question. . . How long would it take a. . .

[ejudasf]

competent person to change out the seals. 

After reading a few posts, http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=39547.0

and http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=39535.0  I really can't tell if this will be an all day affair -or- easier to just take the bike to a dealer, and hope I don't get ripped off.


Thanks for any responses.

ed

[GeeP]

It isn't too diffcult if you have the following:

1)  A way to hold the bike up.  Ratchet straps and a roof beam or tree are great for this.

2)  A way to remove the bolt in the bottom of the fork that holds the valving in.  Either an impact wrench or Kerry's bolt and all-thread tool will be required.

3)  A seal driver of the correct size to install the new seals.  I've read that PVC pipe is close to the right size.  A big deep socket, a length of deburred tube, etc will work too.

I would figure on 4 hours.  Cut that in half if you have a fully equipped shop with heat and a kegerator.  Double it if you're working in your front yard, in a snowstorm, with a Handy Andy toolkit.   

[Kerry]

Yep - that sounds about right for a first attempt.  Again, assuming that you have the tools and the seals (and fork oil) on hand.

If you have to wait for stuff to be shipped, keep riding ... and search for some of the step-by-step pictorials that have been posted over the years. 

PS: You will do it a lot faster the next time, but the shop won't. 

[ejudasf]

4 hours. 

Might just do it myself then.  Will wait for the stuff to arrive.

Will also print almost every page that has pix in it with this jub as well.

ed

[ben2go]

With no prior experience it took me 3 hours. I upgraded my springs and had to cut spacers.I used to be an auto mechanic,so that may have helped me out.

[Bob Broussard]

Check [the latest pic in the wall of fame]
It will give you an idea of the tools needed and the basic layout of the internals (minus the emulators).
When I install the new seals, I just take the old seal and slide it down the fork tube ontop of the new seal.
Then I use a piece of wood (something that won't scratch the tube) and a hammer to tap the seal into the fork bottom. Just move around the seal as you gently tap it in. The old seal will come off with no problem.
You can't get a socket onto the allen bolt on the bottom. So you'll need a standard allen wrench and something to
give you some leverage to break it loose. (notice the cresent wrench on the end of the allen wrench).

When you put oil back in the forks, Stop about a couple inches shy of the end of the tube with it compressed.
Then slowly move the tube up and down in the fork bottom to pump out all the air. You'll feel it resist your movements as the oil gets circulated. Then put in the spring and cap it off. (pull the fork tube up before you drop the spring in, the oil level will rise and spill out if you don't). 
I use 20wt oil with the racetech springs, which makes it a bit firm for normal street riding.
10-15wt would probably work fine. It would increase the damping rate a bit and make it a little less spongy.

[KJB: Added hot link to the Wall Of Fame photo]

[mark40]

Just for comparison, in our shop (which is a small independent one) we charge 1hour if forks are off the bike 1.5 if the whole bike is brought in.

3-4 for a first time would be a good guess.
Pay close attention to which way the new seals go in and do not force, if it does not feel right it probably is not. Be very careful not to scratch the fork tubes....