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Question RE: Oil filter cover bolt

Started by dchrist, June 02, 2008, 04:49:20 PM

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sledge

Pity......if you had been here in the UK I would have lent you mine, vise grips are not really the best way of removing studs.

pennstump

OK, but thanks for the info.  As I can tell, here are my options:


  • Keep spraying penetrating oil and try to wrench these bolts out with vise grips across the remaining threads.  RISK:  Breaking it off.
  • Dremel the bolt to have 2 flat areas and then the same as #1.  RISK:  Breaking it off.
  • Try the "2 nut trick."  RISK:  There's very little room to maneuver and I don't think this will work with the current state of the bolts.
  • Weld something to the bolt.  RISK:  I have no idea how to do this, nor the equipment.

Is there anything else I can do in this small space to remove these seized bolts?
1993 Suzuki GS500E, 2006 Suzuki SV1000S

beRto

Perhaps removing the front wheel will give you more space and increase your chances of success?

Have you tried tightening the stud; this might help to break it loose?

I've never tried this, but I know others have had success drilling the stud and using an Easy-out. Again, you will probably need to give yourself some more room in order to do this. Pablo's site mentions this method briefly:
http://pantablo500.tripod.com/id10.html

dchrist

good luck with this.... Mine finally came out ok. wd-40 wasn't enough. I bought a can of PB blaster and used it ALL (probably overkill). soaked the posts every few hours for 2 days. occasionally gave it a mild tap or 10 with a hammer (I almost applied direct heat but didn't end up having to). Then, once the post finally began turning, I stayed at it with the vice grips and the PB blaster. it took about a half hour to turn the post all the way out. just take care not to break off the post or you'll end up having to take off the front end to use an ez-out. I was really paranoid of that happening so I took it super easy with the vice grips (like a quarter turn at a time...) and make sure the post is turning and that you're not just grinding it down with the vice grips. I'm routing for ya.



d
01 Naked 20/62.5/135 2 washers 2.5 turns K&N drop in V&H full exhaust. SS brake lines. HH pads. Progressive springs.

sledge

Perhaps you could try fileing 2 flats opposite each other on the stud close to the block with a view to getting a small open-end spanner on them. Then play some heat on the stud from a blowtorch to swell things up and gently rock the spanner and try to free it off. I would avoid playing a flame on the engine cases, it discolours the metal and destroys the sealant between the mating surfaces and causes major oil leaks.

I wouldnt bother with an easy-out, they are over-hyped and nowhere near as effective as some would believe, particularly when used on small diameter items. You could Gas-weld (Braize) a nut onto the end let it cool and try to turn it with a good quality socket.......or you find a tool like the one in my previous post, they never fail to work, the beauty of them is the fact the tighter the stud is held in, the tighter the grip it makes on the stud itself.

pennstump

Success!

It looks like the 1/2 gallon of WD-40 and some elbow grease took care of them.  I was able to break the bolts with the vise grips, then I slotted the ends with the Dremel and screwed them out with a screwdriver.

....whew....   


:cheers:
1993 Suzuki GS500E, 2006 Suzuki SV1000S

beRto

Quote from: pennstump on June 12, 2008, 07:21:57 PM
Success!

It looks like the 1/2 gallon of WD-40 and some elbow grease took care of them.  I was able to break the bolts with the vise grips, then I slotted the ends with the Dremel and screwed them out with a screwdriver.

....whew....   


:cheers:

Fantastic! Congratulations  :cheers:

Now show us a pic of the aftermath...  :laugh:

sledge

On Friday 13th too?........... Do me a fave and pick me any 6 numbers between 1 and 49 for tomorrows lottery  :laugh:

SIKDMAX

SUCCESS!  ME TOO!

After getting my bike just a few weeks, ago, I did a oil change the first day I got it and  :mad:

At least 1 stud stripped, and none of the acorn nuts would really get tight.  I had a small oil leak of a couple drips when the bike would sit.  It progressively got worse until I was leaking a drip almost constantly, smoking oil off the headers at stoplights, etc and had to stop riding it. 

Ordered up 3 new studs from bikebandit, 3 new acorn nuts, new o ring gasket and waited.

Today I got them, and started the install.

Was able to undo 2 of the acorn nuts, but the 3rd would just spin.  Even with an impact on there to really try and get it off.  Finally was able to take a pair of dykes and cut the acorn part off, then eventually cut the nut off. 

Went to Home Depot and got 2 appropriately sized nuts and tried the 2 nut method.  CRAP!  The back nut would just push the front nut off/thru the threads as I tried to undo it.

Soaked in PB, got some visegrips super tight on there, no dice.  Gave some firm taps on the end of the stud with the grips on there and finally POP!  Got it!  Take a look at the stud  :o  The end section is where the nut was sitting and would just spin, couldnt grab any threads. 



Now to get that one put back in, and might as well replace the other 2 as well. 

What do you guys think about lock titing the studs in there?
1999 GS500E - Corbin Seat, Bar End Mirrors, K&N Lunchbox, Vance & Hines Exhaust, Carb Magic by Buddah, Progressive Front Springs w/ 15W,  EBC Front Pads, LED Front/Rear Signals, 15T Front JT Sprocket.

NEED:  Katana Rear Shock, OEM Rear Pads, New Chain!

Jay_wolf

All i hear on this whole subject is they only have to be a TOUCH tighter than Finger tight, so do it finger tight, and then add a tiny bit on it  ,

If u loctite it in , its going to be very hard to remove?
2001 Gs500 , Katana Gsx Front End, K3 Tank,, Full S S Predetor System ,Bandit Rear Hugger,Goodridge S S Break Lines ,  Belly Pan , , K+N LunchBox, Probolt Bolts, FSD Undertray With Built in Lights And Indicators. 
2008 Megelli 125 SM 14bhp
1996 Honda NSR 125cc 33bhp
2001 Mercades A160  115bhp

SIKDMAX

Im talking about the stud.  I dont want the stud ever coming out or spinning when I tighten the acorn nut, and I am going to be extra super careful every time I change the oil so no need to ever replace the stud again. 

2nd one is out - only one more to go!  :cheers:
1999 GS500E - Corbin Seat, Bar End Mirrors, K&N Lunchbox, Vance & Hines Exhaust, Carb Magic by Buddah, Progressive Front Springs w/ 15W,  EBC Front Pads, LED Front/Rear Signals, 15T Front JT Sprocket.

NEED:  Katana Rear Shock, OEM Rear Pads, New Chain!

beRto

Quote from: SIKDMAX on June 16, 2008, 04:28:42 PM
Im talking about the stud.  I dont want the stud ever coming out or spinning when I tighten the acorn nut, and I am going to be extra super careful every time I change the oil so no need to ever replace the stud again. 

2nd one is out - only one more to go!  :cheers:

The problem is that if the stud ever breaks you'll have a bugger of a time getting it out again!

SIKDMAX

Well how the heck is the stud supposed to stay in there?  :dunno_white:

Whats to say that one time when I remove the acorn nut instead of coming off the stud, it just turns the stud out with it? 
1999 GS500E - Corbin Seat, Bar End Mirrors, K&N Lunchbox, Vance & Hines Exhaust, Carb Magic by Buddah, Progressive Front Springs w/ 15W,  EBC Front Pads, LED Front/Rear Signals, 15T Front JT Sprocket.

NEED:  Katana Rear Shock, OEM Rear Pads, New Chain!

SIKDMAX

 :cheers:

All is done and boy am I relieved.  That is the one "problem" I had with the bike.  Everything else is just performance upgrades/cleaning.  Dealer quoted me $340 to fix the studs! 

So happy so happy  :icon_lol:

1999 GS500E - Corbin Seat, Bar End Mirrors, K&N Lunchbox, Vance & Hines Exhaust, Carb Magic by Buddah, Progressive Front Springs w/ 15W,  EBC Front Pads, LED Front/Rear Signals, 15T Front JT Sprocket.

NEED:  Katana Rear Shock, OEM Rear Pads, New Chain!

sledge

Quote from: SIKDMAX on June 16, 2008, 04:52:12 PM
Well how the heck is the stud supposed to stay in there?  :dunno_white:

Whats to say that one time when I remove the acorn nut instead of coming off the stud, it just turns the stud out with it? 

You fit the stud with torque thats about 20% higher than the nut needs. This way the nut loosens off way before the stud does. Loctite is used for safety critical parts subject to heat and vibration or that move or rotate, no need for it on the stud and as mentioned previously it will be even more difficult to remove should the need arise........unless you like struggling.

pennstump

Quote from: beRto on June 12, 2008, 08:53:00 PM
Fantastic! Congratulations  :cheers:

Now show us a pic of the aftermath...  :laugh:

OK...  finally charged up the camera.  Here are the casualties.... beware...         :oops:



1993 Suzuki GS500E, 2006 Suzuki SV1000S

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