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engine running very HOT

Started by zman93, June 23, 2008, 03:58:11 PM

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beRto

Quote from: kml.krk on June 25, 2008, 10:44:29 AM
did you try hitting the screw head with a hammer?? It usually works for me. You could also get a tool which looks like screw driver but you hit it with a hammer and it spins left slightly with each hammer stroke loosening the screw this way.
good luck

Agreed. An impact driver can often save a lot of hassle.

Fry

Didn't read all of the thread but heres a few suggestions.

You were only able to mess with one carb, you more than likely created some changes/adjustments in that one carb and it's running leaner/richer? than the other carb.

I'd like to see a picture of the plug all the way down the porcelain, not just the tip. Accurate reading come from the bottom area of the porcelain, not the tip and grounding strap, at least on 2 strokes.

As for the screws, I've stripped enough to know that I use an impact screw driver on all screws like this, whacking it pretty good before attempting removal, a little heat would work as well, but heat and gas don't mix well.
Have you learned the lessons only of those who admired you, and were tender with you, and stood aside for you? Have you not learned great lessons from those who braced themselves against you, and disputed passage with you?
Walt Whitman

dchrist

Quote from: zman93 on June 23, 2008, 06:37:15 PM
Also where the oil stick is, it is hot to the touch, not warm.

Um... sorry to threadjack but.... is that abnormal? I can't touch any part of the engine on mine, oil stick included, after its fully warm without getting burned... I just figured thats par for the course on an air cooled machine...

thoughts?

d
01 Naked 20/62.5/135 2 washers 2.5 turns K&N drop in V&H full exhaust. SS brake lines. HH pads. Progressive springs.

zman93

#23
Quote from: Fry on June 25, 2008, 01:57:51 PM
Didn't read all of the thread but heres a few suggestions.

You were only able to mess with one carb, you more than likely created some changes/adjustments in that one carb and it's running leaner/richer? than the other carb.

I'd like to see a picture of the plug all the way down the porcelain, not just the tip. Accurate reading come from the bottom area of the porcelain, not the tip and grounding strap, at least on 2 strokes.

As for the screws, I've stripped enough to know that I use an impact screw driver on all screws like this, whacking it pretty good before attempting removal, a little heat would work as well, but heat and gas don't mix well.

I just took some picture of the plugs this morning but I can't upload right now(computer issue) but I can tell you that the porcelain is white all the way thru.  :dunno_white: I will edit this post later when I have the pictures uploaded. 
For the screw, I did try an impact screwdriver but it didn't work.  :mad: I'm going to try to get a flathead screwdriver and angle it and hit it with a hammer. 

Here are some more pictures of the spark plugs
spark plugs 2
spark plugs 3
spark plugs 4

Update on the screw........the hammer and screwdriver method worked and got all 4 screws out!!!  :icon_razz:

Fry

You want to look inside the plug, all the way down the prceilian on the insie of the plug, not just the ground strap and threads of the plug, or for that matter the tip of the porceliean. The plug should ideally have a Mocha or Cinamin color to it being dry all the way down it's lenght, the inside protion that is, getting slightly darker towards the bottom.
Have you learned the lessons only of those who admired you, and were tender with you, and stood aside for you? Have you not learned great lessons from those who braced themselves against you, and disputed passage with you?
Walt Whitman

sledge

To get an accurate idea of the mixture state via the plug condition you need to do a Plug-chop. Those pics only indicate what state the mixture was in when the engine was unloaded and ticking over.

Follow these instructions.
http://faq.f650.com/FAQs/SparkPlugFAQ.htm#Plug%20Chop

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