HELP - I can't accelerate!

[95GSGUY]

So I just recently put some new bars on my bike (bikemaster sport), and I adjusted all my controls on the bars to the specs in my manual (throttle, clutch, choke, etc.).

When I rode it yesterday, the first time since making all the adjustments, I had a problem accelerating. It may have been this way all along, but it is definitely more pronounced now. It was fine while riding in the low RPMs (up to about 5000), but anything higher and it would just rev up really quickly, as if it was in neutral, and I wouldn't actually move any faster. So it was fine if I accelerated through the gears slowly, but when accelerating quickly, I basically ended up in 6th gear, revving at 9000 or higher, but still going really slowly.

Any ideas what could be the problem and how I'd fix it? My only thought is that maybe the clutch isn't entirely releasing??? But that doesn't make much sense, b/c I adjusted it to the specs in the manual (4mm free-play).

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

THANKS

[bajabound]

check the clutch again - that's exactly what it sounds like.. throw some wax on the cable to make sure she slides smoothly.

Clutch might be toast... although I tend to doubt it.

[Chef GS500f 06]

Clutch cable, almost positive. There a pain, also check all your lines, my bike was reving up uncontrolable and it turned out that the trottle cable was too tight.

[groff22]

Someone had this problem before but I'm too busy to search for the long winded answer. Make sure you've adjusted the clutch cable properly at both ends.

Cheers,
J

[DoD#i]

Definitely the clutch - whether mal-adjusted (recall that there are several places for clutch adjustments, not just at the lever), not quite right (recent broken clutch cable thread mentioned having the end of the cable under the sprocket cover not quite on right as a contributing factor) or just possibly the clutch itself actually being worn out. If the latter, nice picture of what your getting into in recent "fixed a right-side seal leak" thread.

[ohgood]

did you change your oil, or add any during the process or before this 'troubled' ride ?

check the can for 'Friction Modifiers' or "friction inhibitors' or 'energy conservation'

^ you don't want that.

the manual has a nice step by step for adjusting the clutch cable the proper way.

[95GSGUY]

I did an oil change with motul (10W30 or 40 I think). ANd I did also add a motorcycle specific fuel system cleaner to my last tank of gas.

[95GSGUY]

So according to the manual, I believe it said to adjust the clutch lever to 4mm and only if you were maxed out in that adjustment would you need to adjust it at the other end. So I had plenty of adjustment to work with at the lever, and so I had no need to adjust it at the other end. But I will try playing around with everything.

[Trwhouse]

Hi there,
Actually, if you are adjusting cable slack at the lever, you are NOT really adjusting the clutch.
To adjust the clutch, you have to first loosen the cable slack and make sure there is LOTS of slack in the cable. Next you have to adjust the lever assembly on the left side of the engine. It's inside the small oval shaped cover in the middle of the large rear engine cover that goes over the chain and countershaft sprocket. That lever assembly is your real clutch adjuster.
Remove the two phillips head screws holding the small oval cover on, then use a socket to loosen the locknut inside. Turn the screw adjuster clockwise until it bottoms out against the rod inside (trust me, it's in there, you just can't see it), then back off the screw 1/4 turn and retighten the locknut.
Now try your clutch. It is properly adjusted.
The Suzuki manual says to adjust that screw 1/4 to 1/2 turn, but my bike likes 1/4 turn.
Put your oval cover back on and then readjust the cable slack on the cable, so there is just a bit of slack as you begin to pull the cable.
This should fix it.
Best wishes and let us know how it goes.
Yours,
Todd

[95GSGUY]

Thanks so much for the "how to" advice. So I gave it a try, but I am not sure if I did it quite right. I also read my manual and followed what it said as well. It did make a difference, but I feel like it may still be slipping a little bit. I am a little confused about one part of the adjustment. You said "Turn the screw adjuster clockwise until it bottoms out against the rod inside". Whereas in my manual, it says "turn it until you feel heavy resistance". I tried turning it and there was a point that I felt like I hit increased resistance, but even that point could be anywhere within about a half turn as it is hard to say where that really started. I kept on turning the screw and got almost to the end and figured that must be wrong, so I just set it to about the point where that resistance was felt.

So my question is: should there be a point where if I keep on turning the screw I will literally hit an end point and no be able to turn it anymore, or was I correct in just adjusting it to where I felt increased resistance???

[Trwhouse]

Hi again,

No problem.
When you turn the screw in clockwise, you will feel it "bottom out" against something. The manual calls that "heavy resistance" though you don't want to actually feel it get "heavy."
You want to turn the screw in until it won't turn anymore. I call it bottoming out.
Then back it off 1/4 to 1/2 turn.
Now retighten the locknut.
Try it between 1/4 and 1/2 turn and see if that's better for your clutch.
Remember to completely slacken the clutch cable before setting the adjustment locknut and adjusting screw!!!
And remember, all of this may be moot, because if it won't adjust properly, then you likely have a bad clutch.
It would need new clutch friction discs and clutch springs, and a new cover gasket. You may need a special tool to get the clutch locknut off, too. We can figure something out to do that if needed.
Try the adjustment with a few settings and let me know if anything works.
Where are you?
I'm in Lancaster, PA. If you are nearby, I can help you.
Let me know how it's going.
Yours,
Todd

Quote from: 95GSGUY on Today at 02:10:11 PM
Hey Trwhouse,

Thanks so much for the "how to" advice. So I gave it a try, but I am not sure if I did it quite right. I also read my manual and followed what it said as well. It did make a difference, but I feel like it may still be slipping a little bit. I am a little confused about one part of the adjustment. You said "Turn the screw adjuster clockwise until it bottoms out against the rod inside". Whereas in my manual, it says "turn it until you feel heavy resistance". I tried turning it and there was a point that I felt like I hit increased resistance, but even that point could be anywhere within about a half turn as it is hard to say where that really started. I kept on turning the screw and got almost to the end and figured that must be wrong, so I just set it to about the point where that resistance was felt.

So my question is: should there be a point where if I keep on turning the screw I will literally hit an end point and no be able to turn it anymore, or was I correct in just adjusting it to where I felt increased resistance???

THANKS!