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Just painted pipes '89 GS / Redoing head Pictures

Started by stormchaser, July 17, 2008, 12:19:58 AM

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stormchaser

Had my bike for ten years, but never done any real TLC. Started to ride it again after two years sitting in the garage (GAS PRICES!!). Love this bike gives me the old cafe racer look.
Light and easy to turn. Leaking head gasket so replacing head gasket and went ahead and replaced cylindar gasket. Four of the valves had a wobble on the valve face. A little carbon
buildup on the intake valve. Doing it myself, trying to stay away from the machine shop. Just spent all day grinding my pipes down and painiting with bar-b-q paint. Only wished it came it high
gloss black. I guess u got to powder coat for that. Waiting on my two intake valves then will put back together. That first start will be a little scary. Will provide after shots and updates.

Ignore the date took pics tonight freaking camera





1990 GS500E Upper and Lower Cowls

ohgood

put a full length chain sling guard on there and yer pretty white wheels will stay pretty longer :)

other than that, you're fine, except you're using the wrong hammer ;)


tt_four: "and believe me, BMW motorcycles are 50% metal, rubber and plastic, and 50% useless

The Buddha

And that is not an 89.  :icon_mrgreen: It may be a 90 that was made after august in 89, but its not an 89 model.
Cool.
Buddha.
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stormchaser

You're right manufactured in 1989, but its a 1990 model put it up a little late
last night, and that metal hammer will work great on the bike if it doesn't start.
1990 GS500E Upper and Lower Cowls

stormchaser

#4
By the way I had major carbon buildup inside. The pistons had thick black carbon on them. Got most
of it off. Is it because I'm running lean? Cleaned the jets.
1990 GS500E Upper and Lower Cowls

ben2go

Carbon is usually a symptom of running rich.More than likely caused by to rich jetting or high float levels.Seeing as how your bike is all stock it's probably high float levels.Here's a way to check them.

http://www.bbburma.net/FloatHeight.htm

http://cgi.stanford.edu/~sanjayd/gs500/Maintenance/FloatHeight
PICS are GONE never TO return.

Fry

Quote from: stormchaser on July 17, 2008, 10:47:53 AM
By the way I had major carbon buildup inside. The pistons had thick black carbon on them. Got most
of it off. Is it because I'm running lean? Cleaned the jets.

I would assume thick Black Carbon build up is because your running Rich, not lean.
Have you learned the lessons only of those who admired you, and were tender with you, and stood aside for you? Have you not learned great lessons from those who braced themselves against you, and disputed passage with you?
Walt Whitman

stormchaser

#7
Thanks for that will check float heights. Couple other questions, my valves have always been loose. .08mm - .108mm whats the downside to that? And my valve buckets can be spun with my finger, is that okay too?
1990 GS500E Upper and Lower Cowls

ben2go

Quote from: stormchaser on July 17, 2008, 01:00:10 PM
One other question, my valves have always been loose. .08mm - .108mm whats the
downside to that? And are my valve buckets can be spun with ur finger, is
that okay too?

The valve clearances need to be tightened up to .03 to .08mm.Loose valves cause the carbs to act up due to poor vacuum.The buckets should rotate easily but not sloppy loose.The buckets are loose for oiling and easy movement in their bores.
PICS are GONE never TO return.

stormchaser

#9
Thanks, called the dealer my parts are in so will try tonight. Shims $10 a piece wish
they were cheaper. And numbers rubbed off don't have a micronmeter. When
measuring valves should the feeler have some major drag or just slight? The book says
slight but that is so vague.
1990 GS500E Upper and Lower Cowls

ben2go

If you gently pull on the feeler it should have a slight amount of resistance.
PICS are GONE never TO return.

tripleb

how did you grind all the crap off the pipes?  I need to do it as well and I'm wondering if it's worth trying with a dremel or a drill with a wire brush attachment.
lK&N unchbox w/ rejet with 140 mains, F-18 flyscreen, truck bed liner black, superbike bars with 3rd eye bar end mirrors, license plate rear turn signals, micro front turn signals


The Buddha

Carbon build up can also be if you used shitty fuel, and if you didn't rev it in the last few miles of riding. You also can have carbon from oil burning as well as the additives in that oil, though they are usually ashy grey when burnt.
Now some carbon is good, it slows down engine wear, heat transmission into the hard parts etc etc. Large scales and mountains of it are not good. Now you have too much carbon and it will get a glow spot and pre ignite. If you didn't get that far, you are probably OK. the next step is detonation where carbon has taken up chamber volume and is dieselling and making your bike detonate. If you dont have either, you are OK, you may just be confusing a little carbon, for a lot.
Cool.
Buddha.

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I run a business based on other people's junk.
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DoD#i

#13


That's gonna be one fast pressure washer (?) when you are done with the engine swap!!!  :icon_mrgreen:

tripleb, I think you'd lose your mind derusting pipes with a dremel - slightly less so with a drill, but still pretty poor. I need to do the same job, and I'll reach for a 4-1/2" angle grinder with some serious wire brushes that are made to take the 10,000 rpm it runs at.
1990 GS500EL - with moderately-ugly paintjob.
1982 XJ650LJ -  off the road for slow repairs
AGATT - All Gear All The Time
"Ride a motorcycle.  Save Gas, Oil, Rubber, Steel, Aluminum, Parking Spaces, The Environment, and Money.  Plus, you get to wear all the leather you want!"
(from DoD#296)

stormchaser

#14
I used a sander and wire drill attachment. Took me all day. Noticed the sander was good
for the large areas mostly took off paint. The wire was good for rust removal
working in smaller areas. Wouldn't want to have to do it every day. Got  a good
gash on my arm too.  Wire slipped into my arm. But had a day off and tried to
get it done in a day including paint. Its good the days are long right now. Did it
in my backyard. Made a big difference when i changed from a 1200rpm drill to
a 2500 rpm drill. Learning as I go.
1990 GS500E Upper and Lower Cowls

stormchaser

#15
Just got the valves in but when I blow into the intake manifold get a hissing sound around the rubber manifold
I guess thats not good. Should that be replaced?
1990 GS500E Upper and Lower Cowls

The Buddha

You put stainless valves in right ?
Hissing sounds from where ... manifold is easy to test and easy to swap, I'll worry about it when the bike is running and you detect a leak. Blowing may not be a good test. OTOH, if it looks dry and cracked or is older than 10 years, I'd call its time of death and replace.
Now suzuki somehow has changed somehting in the part, and the new part is a bit more crappy than before.
On one bike I was working on, I took the bolts off and wiggled the carbs around and attempted to pull them out of the manifold. The manifolds split in 1/2.
My friends 96 yamaha roadstar has huge cracks in all 4 of them, very visible, like a freaking parched earth landscape. I'll bet they will crumble when he tries to get his carbs off.
Cool.
Buddha.
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I run a business based on other people's junk.
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stormchaser

#17
Man called 10 places to find some shims. The big dealer would
take till wednesday for an order. Found some shims at a local
used bike sales and repair shop. Real nice guys. Even measured
the shims with a micronmoter for me. Also the big dealer said
my O-rings for the intake manifold had been discontinued. But
the used bike place had them in stock. That was a little weird.
I guess the big dealer place didn't want to deal with the $5
part order. What a difference in customer service from one place
to the other. Anyways, try to get it running again tonight. Got
the head on. The new valves need new shims go figure.
1990 GS500E Upper and Lower Cowls

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