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BIG PROBLEM

Started by mes_423, September 04, 2003, 07:44:09 PM

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mes_423

i was changing my oil today, and i was tightening the three screws on the oil filter cap and one of the threaded bolts snapped like a twig. i was going to cry(literally) and its still broken and it looks like the bolt is in the motor case?
what do i do????????????????? :o  :x  :x  :cry:  :cry:  :cry:  :(  :(
need desperate help
what comes up must come down

glenn9171

Take the cover off.  Use a pair of vise grips and unscrew the part of the stud that is left sticking out of the hole (if there is any).  Bring this to your local hardware store and get a bolt to replace it.  

It's not as disastrous as it seems.

And people wonder why I always tell new GS owners not to over tighten the studs. :roll:

mes_423

so the piece thats left i CAN just unscrew from the motor case? i ride a 98. i already bought the size from ace hardware. so i just unscrew, its that easy?
what comes up must come down

sprint_9

Unless it broke off inside the hole itself, then you open up a brand new can of fun.

glenn9171

Yes.  It's a stud.  Threaded on both ends.  Just back it out and use a regular hex-head bolt in it's place.

mes_423

what comes up must come down

pantablo

aw, thats sweet.

never fear, many have gone befire you to where you are...those studs break all the time.
Pablo-
http://pantablo500.tripod.com/
www.pma-architect.com


Quote from: makenzie71 on August 21, 2006, 09:47:40 PM...not like normal sex, either...like sex with chicks.

vtlion

I'm getting ready to make my first oil-change attempt on my 97.

What is the diameter/pitch of those bolts on the oil filter cover? ...maybe I'll go pick a few up BEFORE I snap one in half.   :o

cheers  :cheers:
2 C8H18 + 25 O2 = 16 CO2 + 18 H2O + :)
the bikeography is down for a bit
what IS a Hokie?

JamesG

Don't replace the studs with regular bolts.  Studs are alot easier to fix than the soft threads in the engine case.
Of several years of racing GSs and probably a hundred oil changes, I have never broken or stripped either an oil filter stud or hole, but I have stripped a few exhaust header bolt holes (thanks Yoshimura!  :roll: ) and it is very easy to do.
James Greeson
GS Posse
WERA #306

Kerry

Quote from: vtlionI'm getting ready to make my first oil-change attempt on my 97.
There's a kind of built-in tactile feedback system to help you out, because the oil filter is "spring loaded".  (Unless you forget to put the spring back in with the new filter.  :x )

Use one hand to push the filter cover up against the engine block.  (The spring will put up a slight resistance.)

With the other hand, finger-tighten the 3 dome nuts.

Now all you need is to "snug" the nuts - maybe 1/8 of a turn.  I use my smallest (1/4" drive) socket wrench so I don't accidentally apply too much torque.

I think the spring must help to keep the nuts under tension -- they don't tend to rattle loose.

Good luck on your first oil change!  If you don't drop the drain bolt into your used oil container, I'll buy you a ... soda!
Yellow 1999 GS500E
Kerry's Suzuki GS500 Page

SoloRider

Last week when I changed the oil, I used an after market oil filter (forgot the name) and replaced the stock o ring with the o ring came with the oil filter.  Terrible thing happen that is oil leaked from the cover no matter how tight I tighten the 3 bolts...
Since this board has warned me about not to tighten to 3 bolts or else I will break them, I reopened the oil cover and there I saw the after market o ring was broken off eventhough it was sit inside the groove...
Lesson I learned here is that perhaps the cheap after market oil filter o ring didn't do the good job in keeping the oil cover tight enough to prevent oil leak. Further, it may cause you to tighten the bolts TOO TIGHT
in order to stop the oil leaking...
Afterward, I put the used OEM o ring back and carefully tighten the 3 bolts.
The oil leak problem went away.
02' model with Bob B. Advancer, F-15 windshield, Progressive springs
and Batlax B45 tires... Ready for cannyon rides.

Richard UK

The most important thing when closing up engine parts that are meant to be oil tight at the joint is to ensure that the mating surfaces are completely clean.  Make sure that there are no traces of grit, metal turnings and the like by wiping them with something like a clean tissue or paper towel.  

Ensure thet the 'O' ring itself is completely clean.  Try not to stretch it when handling it, or it won't fit in the groove.  Inspect the 'O' ring for wear, and if it looks even slightly damaged or nicked, replace it.  A light smear of clean engine oil or grease on the 'O' ring will help the seal and will hold it in place.  If the 'O' ring sits in a groove, make sure it is properly seated properly when you reassemble the parts.  

On assembly, tighten the retaining bolts just enough to sqash the 'O' ring snug against the two mating surfaces.  If you tigthen it too hard, you may crsuh and damage it, resulting in a leak.  Try and develop a 'feel' for how tight these things need to go.  Better too loose to start with, and tighten up a little if it leaks.

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