turn signal wiring question

tripleb · August 10, 2008, 02:54:19 PM

I'm trying to install my new micro turn signals. I'm having some problems and I've searched thru a few threads so I may already know the answer to my question, but I'm going to ask the gurus anyway.

I've hooked up all 4 turn signals (not LED) and they all light up. the problem is that they don't flash. they are always on and when I turn the left one on the left ones are brighter than the right ones and vice versa. I haven't fully pressed the connections in because I wanted to make sure they work first so I think that may be it. any ideas???

tripleb · August 10, 2008, 03:28:27 PM

well, I've read through some other threads more carefully and now I've got them to light up only when I turn the turn signals on for each side. So I'm pretty sure I've got the connections right. the problem now is that that don't really flash, if at all. Sometimes they flash once really slowly and then stay on and sometimes they just stay on and don't flash.

I've got the black wires in the front connected to the green and black wire and the yellow wires connected to the b/w wires. WTF is wrong?

tripleb · August 11, 2008, 09:24:37 AM

bump

beRto · August 11, 2008, 09:41:36 AM

You are probably having problems similar to if you had installed LEDs. I guess your new bulbs draw less current than the stock bulbs and are not triggering the relay properly.

Can you change the bulbs to something closer to stock (sorry, I don't have the power requirements on hand)?

Alternately, you may need to install a different relay. See this thread for suggestions from sledge (he suggested them for LED, you should inquire if they would work in your application):
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=43336.0

tripleb · August 11, 2008, 10:23:13 AM

thanks for the help berto. I didn't even think to look at the LED threads since mine are filament. I'll try removing the indicator light and see if that works.

LOUiE · August 11, 2008, 10:33:52 AM

i just went through this a few days ago... i suggest a different relay.. I can give you a few options if you want to go that route... its probably the easiest, least time consuming fix.

tripleb · August 11, 2008, 10:58:15 AM

Louie - what do you suggest? I'd rather go with something cheap and easy to find nearby if possible.

average · August 11, 2008, 11:00:58 AM

Also make sure that they are grounded properly. The front has a double ground for both signals which means that that there are 2 black wires running into one connector(my bikes a 90)

If your signals have running lights you can use the single striped black wire as a constant so your running lights are working

The green wire should be your positive for the right signal

The solid black wire should be your positive for the left signal

I used the brown wire for the ground and the double ground for the running light it looks like.

All in all; they work. If i've confused you after my third cup of coffee then the pictures should tell you everything you need to know. It was pretty hot and so was the asphalt i was sitting on to take the pics

tripleb · August 11, 2008, 11:05:54 AM

I saw that there are a pair of female connectors that are kind of a Y split (2 connectors into one wire). I've got my ground wires going into those and the positive (yellow) wires into the solid green and solid black wires.

Thanks for the pics and info. I'll llook at them again when I get home.

LOUiE · August 11, 2008, 11:11:55 AM

sounds like you ahve them connected properly... thats what mine did.

Just simply put in a new relay all probs were fixed.

DRC IC Relay

http://drcproducts.com/elect/icrelay/index.html

I bought it for 30 bones from my dealer... might be able ot get it cheaper somewhere else.. i was just getting frustrated to hell and wanted them to work.

average · August 11, 2008, 11:13:26 AM

But....if he has regular indicators....why would he need an led relay?

LOUiE · August 11, 2008, 11:26:58 AM

from my understanding (via PM) its a smaller filament bulb... smaller load bulb than stock.

Its got to be either a resistance problem or a relay problem. From my experience, resistance only goes so far... (ie: might be able to reduce the number of bulbs constantly on from 4 to 2, but still no 'flashing')

tripleb · August 12, 2008, 07:32:54 AM

I've looked at wally world and radio shack for the relay but was unable to find a 2 pronged one like the OEM relay. Is it neccessary to use a 2 pronged relay or would a 3 pronged version work as well?

mullethunter3 · August 12, 2008, 08:16:12 AM

Quote from: average on August 11, 2008, 11:13:26 AM
But....if he has regular indicators....why would he need an led relay?

As stated, smaller filiment, less resistance like a LED.

tripleb · August 12, 2008, 02:04:34 PM

I think I may have found a replacement that works at Advance Autoparts. I'm going to pick it up in a few minutes. I'll let you know if it works later tonight.

Here's a link - http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=TRD&MfrPartNumber=LF12&PartType=121&PTSet=A

DoD#i · August 12, 2008, 04:45:26 PM

I think you want the EP37 - which is 27 bucks. Not that different a price.

EP 37 - two terminal electronic with min load of LED, 1 lamp
http://www.tricoproducts.com/brochure.cfm?brochure=286&location_id=129

LF12 - min load of one 27 watt lamp, unless the spec page really meant 2.7 watts. But is described as heavy duty, so it probably means 27 watts.
http://www.tricoproducts.com/brochure.cfm?brochure=290&location_id=130

tripleb · August 12, 2008, 05:51:23 PM

I bought this one actually for $9.25 at Advance - http://www.midwayautosupply.com/showproduct.aspx?productid=30661&affiliateid=10050

It's the EL12. I tested it out and it works perfectly. I used a zip tie to attach it the the frame where the original one was. It took all of 30 seconds.

LOUiE · August 12, 2008, 07:02:54 PM

QuoteIt's the EL12. I tested it out and it works perfectly.

booyah! i love it when problems get solved. good work.

starwalt · August 13, 2008, 05:58:58 PM

Late to this thread but glad to know it worked out for you. I looked at the same relay today. It uses the same technology as the original relay but requires less current to operate.

The reason all of the lamps stayed on is that LEDs use at least an order of magnitude less current that the standard lamps. The original turn signal relay was designed for a high level of current and it was doing its job correctly. It would have eventually flashed, once, and then charged up slowly at the rate of current provided by the LEDs. It worked, just at an incredibly SLOOOOW rate you could not tolerate or was acceptable for safe operation.

BTW class, the default condition of the OEM pre 2003 relay is ON. It charges up to shut OFF and then turns back ON after bleeding off the charge. That's why the OFF state is usually shorter than the ON state. The relay blinks OFF, rather than blinks ON.

The Tridon relay obviously uses less current to do the same thing. Congrats and thanks for your contribution.

(One day, when I am bed ridden and have nothing else to do, I am going to count the turn signal posts on this board. Anyone want to guess at a number??)

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turn signal wiring question