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REAR TIRE Removal

Started by AyeKay, August 16, 2008, 04:34:24 PM

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AyeKay

Ok..

So I got this HUGE NAIL in my rear tire. This shaZam! was like 3-4 inches long haha

Anyways, Im going to get a new tire mounted, and I was wondering...

I should be able to slide it forward enough to get the chain off, and then get it back on the same way?

Any other tips?

Thank you


Trwhouse

#1
AyeKay, Your original post:

Hey..

Got a nail in my tire. Sucks since the tire has plenty of tread left. I'm going to replace it but I have a few questions

How do I get this tire and chain OFF?

It has to be the stock chain... Its an 05 with 13k

Do I need to replace chain/sprockets/ and tire because of this damn nail?

Im about to just pay the shop and get raped....

AyeKay


___________________________________________


Hi,  AyeKay,

I'm not sure why you are thinking you need to replace your chain and sprockets because of a nail in the tire, (that's what you wrote in your original post)  but here's the deal:

You need to replace the tire if it picked up a nail.
Never ever plug a tire permanently, though it is OK temporarily if you are on a trip and need to get to a shop where the tire can be replaced.

The wheel is removable by putting the bike on the centerstand, loosening the rear axle nut, loosening the chain adjusters, unbolting the rear brake caliper from its mounting support rod, pulling the axle, dropping the wheel out from the swingarm,  removing the axle spacers and then the chain from around the sprocket, followed by rolling the wheel out from under the fender by pulling it next to the fender.
Get all that?

It's not that hard to do, but it sounds like you should get a manual because it will give you all the needed procedures as well as torque values, which you will need to reassemble it all.

Then of course you have to choose a replacement tire.

Do a search here on the site using the SEARCH function to get tire recommendations and you will find lots of info.

I prefer Michelin Macadam tires in the stock sizes. They work very well, are reasonably priced and wear and peform well in wet and dry conditions.

Good luck,


Trwhouse


1991 GS500E owner

AyeKay

Thanks,

The reason I asked about chain and sprockets is because the I misread and thought you needed to break the chain to get it off, So I figured might as well do chain and sprockets.

Anyways,

Im going to get it off and out tomorrow, going by what you said it should be fairly simple. The local cycle supply is going to supply a bridgestone and mount it for me.  Gonna cost about 130$ Mounted and balanced.

Frustrated me at first but I figure I'll have the new tire on monday.

The old one still had many life left in it though.  :mad:

beRto

Quote from: AyeKay on August 16, 2008, 06:22:53 PM
The old one still had many life left in it though.  :mad:

Don't be too frustrated... you're doing the right thing by replacing the tire!  :thumb:

gsJack

It's not necessary to mess up the chain adjustment to R&R the rear tire.  Put on stand, remove caliper, take off axle nut and pull axle and wheel will drop to ground.  Roll wheel forward and remove chain from sprocket and swing it outboard and hang it over the swing arm, cover swing arm with rag first if you don't want it scratched up.  Remove wheel from bike.

I've plugged a few tires over the years and used them up by plugging them with rope type plugs from Walmart, etc with the wheel on the bike; plugging from the outside.  You can't go wrong by replacing the tire instead which is the recommended way to go.
407,400 miles in 30 years for 13,580 miles/year average.  Started riding 7/21/84 and hung up helmet 8/31/14.

Trwhouse

Hi again,

Well, technically GSJack is right, you don't have to mess with the chain adjustment by doing it his way.
But in reality:
1) The chain likely needs to be adjusted anyway.
2) If you do it his way, you are assuming that the previous owner kept the chain properly adjusted and that the wheel is aligned properly (you know what happens when you assume things, though, right?)
3) Honestly, as much as I respect GSJack, he is suggesting the lazy man's way of doing this very critical job.

Do it right, readjust the chain and torque it all properly.

Also, remember the chain must be adjusted to 1.2" slack with the bike OFF of the centerstand. That means holding it up and putting its weight on the wheels.
Again, this is why you need a shop manual or owner's manual for this bike.

Best wishes,

Trwhouse
1991 GS500E owner

gsJack

I get my rear wheel properly aligned when I put on a new chain and see no need for further alignment for the life of the chain, if you buy a used bike you do need to get it aligned correctly if it is not already properly aligned.

As mentioned above I make tire replacement wheel removals without disturbing the chain adjusters.  When the chain needs adjusted I make equal adjustments on both sides a half turn at a time to keep the wheel aligned.

Owners manual says .8-1.2" chain slack is correct with bike on sidestand.  I adjust chain on centerstand to a little over an inch and check it on ground when done.  It will be a bit tighter but within spec.
407,400 miles in 30 years for 13,580 miles/year average.  Started riding 7/21/84 and hung up helmet 8/31/14.

AyeKay

Which manual is the best?

Clymers?

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