I'm over mileage for initial service...should I be this parinoid?

[B kizzle]

Here's the deal: I bought my 2007 about a month ago from a guy who only put 173 miles on it in one year. In less than 4 weeks that I've had it, I am already up to 803 miles. At 600 ,I called to schedule my initial service...but of course they were booked up so my appointment isn't untill next wednesday. I just checked the oil (which is original) and it is a little low. The chain also looks like it could use some lube. I may be crazy but I think I've noticed a slight "ticking" sound at certain low revs...I thought this sounded like the valves need some adjustment but for all I know, it could be normal. I am just really parinoid about racking up more miles before my service...but it's hard to stay off. I also notced one of the screws on the windscreen (one with a rubber washer) got loose and mysteriously disappeared so that will need to be replaced...shaZam!. If I top off the oil, do you think I can get away with riding it another week or should I just park it and drive the car?

[the mole]

If it was one of the later services, I would say 'don't stress' but at this stage there is a lot of wear going on as the moving parts 'break in' to each other. This process contaminates the oil with minute metal particles, and they need to be got rid of sooner rather than later, that's why the first service is at 600 miles. It won't kill the motor to do it later, but it will increase the wear unnecessarily. If you really have to ride it now, just change the oil yourself (and the filter if you feel confident, otherwise let the dealer do it a little later). That way you and your bike will both feel happier! The other things they do at the service can wait a while longer.

[nikitaa]

Two things that you should be able to do yourself that are the majors that are done during the first service:

1.  Oil change.  One bolt to drain the oil (new crush washer when you reinstall it); three bolts to remove the filter cap - new filter just pushes on).  Very simple.  Saves a LOT of $$ over having the dealer do it.  Make sure you pick up motorcycle oil 10W40.

2.  Grease the chain.  Clean all of the old grease and dust off of the chain (use Kerosene or WD40 and a cloth.  Don't be stingy with the WD, spray the chain liberally and clean it well with a rag to remove all of the existing grease - it will be contaminated with dust which is not going to do your chain any favours).  Spray on new grease.  Since the bike is on the center stand, it's easy to move the chain by hand to clean and regrease. You should be cleaning greasing the chain yourself ever 1000 km/600 miles, or after a heavy rain.  Take good care of the chain and it will last.   The chain will be clean and relubed before the bike is finished draining the oil.

The hardest part of the entire service is putting the bike on the centrestand (get someone to spot you just in case).  I have the same problem with first service interval and not being able to get the bike in, and my intention is to do as much of the service as I can - so this is off to a good start.

The Wiki is your friend - it has photos and goes over the procedure in detail.  The only thing it does not cover is removing the old crush washer (go back about 15 posts for details on that).  If you dont' want to remove the fairings, make sure you have an extra extender on your socket set to reach the bolts. 

When you take the bike in for service, let them know that you've already done the oil and chain.  They will do the rest and charge you less $$ for the service. You can ride the bike this week and this weekend, feel good about having done some of the basics yourself, and put the extra cash towards gas to take an extra trip on two wheels.

Enjoy your wheels!

[B kizzle]

When you take the bike in for service, let them know that you've already done the oil and chain.  They will do the rest and charge you less $$ for the service. You can ride the bike this week and this weekend, feel good about having done some of the basics yourself, and put the extra cash towards gas to take an extra trip on two wheels.

I have wanted to change the oil myself but I knew it was already going to be in the shop and that is "part of the service package." I am afraid of doing in and still getting charged by the stealership. I will call today and see if I can get away with it and just have them check valve clearance, torque bolts, etc. If this is the case...I'm kind of pissed I didn't change the oil 2 weeks ago. Oh well, it didn't kill it. Thanks for the advice!! Any other opinions are welcome.

[DoD#i]

In the "too late to do much about it now" realm of opinion, you probably should have changed the oil when you got the bike. Sure, it only had 173 miles on it, but it also had been sitting for a year.

Personally, I'd refill with non-detergent oil (which should be what it shipped with) and do another change in 500-1000 miles on the assumption that break-in (after which you switch to normal detergent oil and 3000 mile intervals) might not really be complete; an educated guess given a number of low-milage failures reported on newer engines (though of course you never hear from those with no problems, and some of those failures probably have to do with low oil, excessive revving, or other abuse).

Read, review and grok everything about being VERY careful with the oil filter nuts/studs. Spray them with PB Blaster a day ahead of trying to get them off, don't reef on them coming out or going in. The tales of broken/stripped studs are rather widely distributed on the board, and easy to find. Fixing them is doable, but best avoided.

If "prying out" the o-ring, don't use a knife or other steel tool - your fingernail or a plastic credit card should get the thing out, and won't scratch the sealing surface as a steel tool can. If you clean the old ring (still in place) well, you can also just push a section to get it to pop up - place two clean fingers about 2" (5cm) apart on the clean o-ring, and push them together while also pushing them into the o-ring - a section of o-ring should pop up with no tools required.

<edit> Forgot to include my mechanical mantra - get/have a can/jar of high-temp anti-seize, and put it on the studs before re-assembling, in the interest of future hassle-free disassembly </edit>