washers on needles

[pkhoff]

Vacuum spigot is plugged with epoxy, sorry forgot to mention that. I use the clear tube method to check the float level. The fuel level is right at the float bowl gasket.

I now have 4 washers under the needle, filter restrictor is out. I have a little bit of richness right off idle (stumbles a bit). Midrange is much better, WOT is great.

I want to try one size larger mains and lower the needles back to two washers and see what that gets me.

I really don't want to spend the money on a pipe.

[quiktaco]

You could always make your own pipe like I did.  Cost me about 10 dollars, and my labor.   

[The Buddha]

Vacuum spigot is plugged with epoxy, sorry forgot to mention that. I use the clear tube method to check the float level. The fuel level is right at the float bowl gasket.

I now have 4 washers under the needle, filter restrictor is out. I have a little bit of richness right off idle (stumbles a bit). Midrange is much better, WOT is great.

I want to try one size larger mains and lower the needles back to two washers and see what that gets me.

I really don't want to spend the money on a pipe.

OK maybe try the restrictor back in ... I have nothing against sending you 130 and 132.5 mains really, but I can maybe save you some money and see if you get a better result.
130 and 132 will over cook you top end, but then you remove 2 of the washers it can affect the WOT enough to cover the larger main. And yea you lean out the idle part by screwing in air screws, you can just tip the mid range into lean territory and you'd need another washer there ... ...
BTW #4 washers - you have 4 of them ... yeow. If you got #2 washers well, its not that bad. The thicker washers ... 4 of them is really uncharted waters. You have any air flow into the airbox other than filter. Like the hose on the bottom is there and intact ? what about the top one to the valev cover.
Also tell me does it behave better if you open throttle slowly, but misbehaves if you open throttle fast ...
Cool.
Buddha.

[pkhoff]

I tried it with and without restrictor in each configuration, I've tried to change only one thing at a time.  Restrictor helps the midrange but seems to choke it on the top end.

When I added the 4th #4 brass washer I measured the thickness of them. They ranged from 0.0235" - 0.0255".  Total thickness thickness of 4 came to 0.097". I measured the thickness of the stock plastic spacers that are under the needles, they were 0.105", so I've nearly doubles the needle height from stock.

The drain hose appears to be intact, with the bulb thing on the end. I haven't tried just plugging the nipple to see if that changes anything. breather hose from airbox to valve cover is present and tight.

How fast or slow you open the throttle makes no difference. It runs like a striped ass monkey, crank the throttle wide open and it almost jumps out from under me.  I can cruise at ~40 mph in 3rd, 4th, or 5th, with no problem. As soon as I get on the highway and try to hold a steady 55, 60, or 65, it begins to buck and jerk like running out of fuel.  If I open the throttle and accelerate to ~75 mph everything is fine, I cruise at that speed for 12 miles without a hiccup. 12 miles is distance on the highway I travel to/from work each day.

[respite]

I tried this mod on my 2007 gs500f. Stock bike besides k&n drop in with restricting ring in place. Added two #3 washers to each needle. If i open the throttle quickly it with pause and go, pause and go. Far from smooth power. Does not backfire. It feels mostly ok if i accelerate slowly, but sometimes does the same. Also noticed the bike now de-accelerates slowly with the clutch in. Any advise on what to do? Add a washer or remove one? Forget it and go back to stock?

At least i have those horrid bolts out of the caps of the carbs and wont have to deal with that again.

Edit:

As i cant leave anything alone and plan on doing a bit of a trip on sunday, i went ahead and removed one of the washers. Would ride it but already had two beers with dinner and just popped open a third. I put it on the center stand and revved it quickly in first with no issue, but i guess that doesnt mean much when the engine isnt trying to push six hundred pounds. 

[Danny500]

I tried this mod on my 2007 gs500f. Stock bike besides k&n drop in with restricting ring in place. Added two #3 washers to each needle. If i open the throttle quickly it with pause and go, pause and go. Far from smooth power. Does not backfire. It feels mostly ok if i accelerate slowly, but sometimes does the same. Also noticed the bike now de-accelerates slowly with the clutch in. Any advise on what to do? Add a washer or remove one? Forget it and go back to stock?

At least i have those horrid bolts out of the caps of the carbs and wont have to deal with that again.

When you put the washers in did you re-adjust your mixture screws? What about a vacuum test to sync the carbs? Do yourself a favor and follow the proper mix-screw-adjustment guidelines.

1. After any carb mod screw the mix screws all the way in and then back them out 1 turn a piece.
2. Start the bike and let it warm up, after it warms up drop the idle RPM to 900-1000. Turn off the choke.
3. Unscrew the mix screws until the motor doesn't rev any higher. Do this in 1/2 turn increments. DO BOTH CARBS AT THE SAME TIME!!! 1/2 turn on left, then 1/2 turn on right.
4. Drop the idle back to 1000 rpm.
5. Blip the throttle to 1/4 or about 3k rpm. If the needle hesitates on the way up you are too rich. If the needle drops back slow to idle, you're lean.
6. When you're done, both carbs need to be the same setting. Set the idle back to 12oo rpm.

My bike has 1 needle on each and I'm running at 3.5 turns out on the carbs... so you might be right around there.

Dan

[respite]

Negative. I have a USA california model. Carbs are still sealed. Ive seen posts from other users on this board who threw in a few washers without removing the carbs and no mention of any other adjustments.

[Danny500]

Well..  you need to. Plain and simple. You've got to take the carbs off and drill out the brass bushing. Takes about 3 minutes... then just pop them back on and throw the bike together...

Dan

[quiktaco]

Well..  you need to. Plain and simple. You've got to take the carbs off and drill out the brass bushing. Takes about 3 minutes... then just pop them back on and throw the bike together...

Dan

I agree.  You really should adjust them after changing anything else on the carbs.  They'll be slightly off and can cause problems if left alone.

[respite]

Bored at work I just took a minute away from the desk and took a look at my carbs. This bike has only been in the shop once for the 600 mile service. To my surprise, they drilled out the caps for the air mixture screws! Im going to put the second #3 washer back on the needle tonight and readjust the mixture.

Anyone know why a shop would bother doing this on a brand new stock machine? Im glad they did, one less thing for me to hassle with, but why?

[quiktaco]

It's possible that the mixture screws may have been slightly off from the factory.  They could have done it to adjust it slightly to get it within spec again.

[REAP]

I just did this on my bike and talk about PROBLEMS! The bike is running sooooo rich, its blowing smoke, wont start, have to rev the crap out of it to get it to turn over.....


Then again, could be because there is not much fuel and the battery needs recharging......
Will have a look tomorrow arvo and post results here.

EDIT: I tried 1 washer on each, was much better but still starved for fuel. Put it back to stock and went for a ride, it backfires, jerks around, still starved for fuel. Not sure whats wrong with it, anyone know???