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How long can the GS sit if stored properly? and new tires?

Started by gaspy, September 21, 2008, 02:08:55 PM

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gaspy

Hi everyone,

How long can you store/garage the GS500 if you do it properly? (Cover and garage, drain all fuel, change oil, put a bit of oil in cylinders, plug the muffler with WD-40 soaked cloth, and lift so that the tires and suspension are unweighted?)

I ask because I resigned from my job - my last day is October 31. I've been saving for 3 years and have enough in the bank to travel central and south america for 6-12 months with my girlfriend. It's one of my life dreams! Needless to say, I don't want to sell the GS and will have to store it for a long period of time. I want to know if I can do it without damaging the bike and engine. I know the dealers often have those bikes sitting in the showroom for loooong periods of time.

Also, I need to replace my tires. They have life left, but they are not optimal--a couple of cuts, uneven wear, not much tread left on the rear. Should I replace them now, or wait until I return from my trip? What is the best way to protect them for a long period of time if I replace?

thanks!
-G
2005 black/red gs500n

GeeP

If you do that, plus block the engine breather and intake tracts, the GS will be just fine.  Try to store it in a dry space that doesn't get damp.  Instead of using a wet cloth, which will eventually dry, use duct tape or neoprene plugs meant for the purpose.

If you plan to replace your tires upon your return, air up the tires and leave it on the sidestand.  Even if the tires deflate completely, they will protect the rims.  I would be more worried about it falling over or coming loose from whatever method you used to get it off the ground.

Additional thoughts:

For most engines, the biggest moisture danger is rusting of the top end, as the oil film eventually falls off the cams due to relentless gravity and evaporation.  If you expect an extended storage, possibly under adverse conditions, remove the valve cover and coat all the moving parts with white assembly grease.  This is available at most auto parts stores.  Reinstall the valve cover and do not rotate the engine after this procedure.  The grease will dissolve upon first starting the engine.

To protect the cylinders, you can get desiccant plugs that replace the spark plugs. The journal bearings in the bottom end will be fine, as the clearances promote capillary action.

Have a good trip and keep us posted.  If you have any other questions, ask away.
Every zero you add to the tolerance adds a zero to the price.

If the product "fails" will the product liability insurance pay for the "failure" until it turns 18?

Red '96
Black MK2 SV

bobthebiker

I wouldnt replace the tires until returning, that way, its one less thing to worry about when you get back. unweighting the bike isnt exactly that easy, but I'd get front and rear stands to put the bike on, they wont unload your suspension, but I dont like that idea anyways because that can allow rust to form on the portion you ride on the most, which will ultimately kill seals and expensive parts will need replacing. 

looking for a new vehicle again.

arbakken

motorcycles regularly sit for 10+ years sometimes, so 1 year will be fine. Just winterize it, and you'll be fine for a year. Don't replace the tires until you come back, that would just be silly

gaspy

Some good advice here, thank you. I'll be riding a lot in November while the weather still holds up in NY/New England before I leave and was considering replacing the tires for safety. i don't think it's very urgent, though, so I'll wait to replace them.

Quote from: GeeP on September 21, 2008, 02:35:35 PM
For most engines, the biggest moisture danger is rusting of the top end, as the oil film eventually falls off the cams due to relentless gravity and evaporation.  If you expect an extended storage, possibly under adverse conditions, remove the valve cover and coat all the moving parts with white assembly grease.  This is available at most auto parts stores.  Reinstall the valve cover and do not rotate the engine after this procedure.  The grease will dissolve upon first starting the engine.

To protect the cylinders, you can get desiccant plugs that replace the spark plugs. The journal bearings in the bottom end will be fine, as the clearances promote capillary action.

GeeP, thanks for the extensive tips. Very helpful. Sadly, I don't know where the engine breather and intake tracts are (Clymer time).

I'll be storing it in a dry, unheated garage in the northeast. Do you still recommend I apply white assembly grease?

I googled desiccant plugs to no avail. Can I pick these up at a bike shop or autoparts store, and will they know what I'm talking about (I don't!)? Wikipedia: "A desiccant is a hygroscopic substance that induces or sustains a state of dryness (desiccation) in its local vicinity in a moderately-well sealed container." plug the holes with a desiccant material?
2005 black/red gs500n

GeeP

I wouldn't bother with the assembly grease if the garage is dry and you plan to be gone less than a year.  If you were in Florida, or planned to store it in a lean-to beside the barn, I'd highly suggest it.  Some garages are very damp, and promote rust.

If you have a stock airbox in place, the breather tube runs from the top of the valve cover into the airbox.  Simply clamp the hose shut lightly with something suitable, or remove the hose from the airbox and plug it.

The intake tract runners extend from the airbox into the carbs.  Simply cover them with duct tape.

A spark plug desiccator looks like this: 

http://sphinx.thomasnet.com/item/all-categories/spark-plug-type-desiccator/pn-1321?&forward=1

The little blue beads turn pink, then white as they absorb water vapor from the air.

Unfortunately, I can't seem to find any for the spark plug thread on the GS.  I guess there isn't much call for them.  However, if you put a teaspoon or oil some oil in the cylinders and turn it over a few times, you should be fine, since the garage is dry.
Every zero you add to the tolerance adds a zero to the price.

If the product "fails" will the product liability insurance pay for the "failure" until it turns 18?

Red '96
Black MK2 SV

mach1

why not just fill the tank full of gas and use gas stabil that way when you get back just charge the batt add choke and crank her over. we do that to our boat everywinter. our old boat we used to drain and due to a lil moisture the tank would get a little rust. and sonce the gs has a crappy tank the lil bit of moisture will add rust for you to clean when you return.
04Gs,fenderectomy,V&H Full exhaust,Vortex clip-ons.13t front sprocket.,Uni Pods,22.5/65/147.5,Katana rear shock,M-1 metzeler 150 rear tire,Yamaha R6 Tail-SOLD
79 Honda CM185t-In restoration mode with this bike.DEAD slammed 2003 Honda Shadow 600, matte black everything 18inch ape hangers

gaspy

Quote from: mach1 on September 22, 2008, 05:11:08 PM
why not just fill the tank full of gas and use gas stabil that way when you get back just charge the batt add choke and crank her over. we do that to our boat everywinter. our old boat we used to drain and due to a lil moisture the tank would get a little rust. and sonce the gs has a crappy tank the lil bit of moisture will add rust for you to clean when you return.

eh, not my preference.
2005 black/red gs500n

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