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Can't Get Rear Wheel Aligned

Started by AyeKay, August 28, 2008, 01:13:39 PM

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AyeKay

Hi....

I've searched and picked up tons of info on the different techniques.

It was always driveable but not perfectly aligned....

Anyways  counted the threads, and the left side was 18 - the right 23.

I tighten the right side so its an even 23 and the chain has NO SLACK.

So I figure okay, this is my starting point I'll just back them up evenly from here.

But everytime I try to do so, the CHAIN side stays tight, but the brake side adjuster just comes loose and defeats the whole purpose.


I know this is a simple procedure and I've done much more mechanical work than this, but this is really starting to piss me off!

I just want to know my tire is perfectly in line and my chain properly taught.

It's almost worth it to me to take it in and pay to have to properly aligned.

DoD#i

Well, to be blunt, you're doing it wrong.  :nono:

Ignore number of threads. Loosen the adjusters (and axle bolt) up and tap things until the chain is loose, the wheel being forward of where it should be (which it won't do by itself when you slack the adjusters off). There should be no slack on the adjusters when you've kicked the wheel forward - that slack should go into the forward motion of the wheel.

Measure from the swingarm pivot to the axle on both sides. Pull the shorter measurement back to equal the longer one with the adjuster. Check that both sides measure the same. This, not threads sticking out of the adjusters, is how you align things. Measure with care, since one side is a nut and the other a bolt head, and they are not the same size - the center is the best part to measure to.

Now, tighten both adjusters, 1/2, 1/4 or 1/6 (one flat) turn at a time until the chain is properly tightened. Turn each adjuster the same amount (and no more than 1/2 turn different at any point in the tightening), and the alignment should stay the same.

1990 GS500EL - with moderately-ugly paintjob.
1982 XJ650LJ -  off the road for slow repairs
AGATT - All Gear All The Time
"Ride a motorcycle.  Save Gas, Oil, Rubber, Steel, Aluminum, Parking Spaces, The Environment, and Money.  Plus, you get to wear all the leather you want!"
(from DoD#296)

AyeKay

Thanks there was so many different opinions when searched.

I have it all back together now and I have to head off to work but I'll have to give it another go tomorrow.

The Buddha

Loosen the axle, the adkister bolts and give the bloody wheel a good kick forward ... hold sissy bar so bike doesn't roll off centerstand.
Cool.
Buddha.
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I run a business based on other people's junk.
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souljeroflight

great question and even greater replys...LMAO i thought i was insane for kicking the tire..LMAO  yeah i have been measuring the bolt lenght out the end of adjuster but NOT ANYMORE! Not now. my proble  is that my adjuster plate keeps bending and slipping inside swingarm.  i need to make some new plates to go back ther i guess i just dont have a drill press or anything to cut the steel i got from some iron wooorkers on the job.  Got the steel for a rear peg mod but that became least of my priorities once i started modding for performance instead of apperance
05 GSF lunchbox, yoshiexhaust, Fenderectomy, 15T Front Sprocket,Grilled W/lights, custom dash, flushmount turns.  05 gone now a 93 stock =(

DoD#i

Quote from: souljeroflight on August 28, 2008, 06:52:58 PM
great question and even greater replys...LMAO i thought i was insane for kicking the tire..LMAO  yeah i have been measuring the bolt lenght out the end of adjuster but NOT ANYMORE! Not now. my proble  is that my adjuster plate keeps bending and slipping inside swingarm.  i need to make some new plates to go back ther i guess i just dont have a drill press or anything to cut the steel i got from some iron wooorkers on the job.  Got the steel for a rear peg mod but that became least of my priorities once i started modding for performance instead of apperance


You need to tighten, no, really, TIGHTEN, I mean TIGHTEN the axle bolt when you are done adjusting.

Reef on that gawmy sumbitch, as people slightly North of where Frankie grew up might say. Nope, not Canada, well, not after our forbears messed up  the survey crew, anyway ;-) Frankie, did you go to Lake Region or somewhere further down in the banana belt?
1990 GS500EL - with moderately-ugly paintjob.
1982 XJ650LJ -  off the road for slow repairs
AGATT - All Gear All The Time
"Ride a motorcycle.  Save Gas, Oil, Rubber, Steel, Aluminum, Parking Spaces, The Environment, and Money.  Plus, you get to wear all the leather you want!"
(from DoD#296)

AyeKay

Well I believe I have it more aligned then it was before I took care to give it a firm kick and adjust with the same amount of turns.

I'm thinking it may be wheel balance.

Because now it a bit worse when I take my hands off the bars it wobbles to the point of it would crash within 5 full seconds.

Yet with any pressure on the bars it drives fine and straight.

I guess I will have the wheel balanced again and see what happens.

ohgood

Quote from: AyeKay on September 01, 2008, 03:17:55 PM
Well I believe I have it more aligned then it was before I took care to give it a firm kick and adjust with the same amount of turns.

I'm thinking it may be wheel balance.

Because now it a bit worse when I take my hands off the bars it wobbles to the point of it would crash within 5 full seconds.

Yet with any pressure on the bars it drives fine and straight.

I guess I will have the wheel balanced again and see what happens.

The 'string method' for rear wheel alignment is my favorite. It's simple, fairly quick, and CERTAIN to make your wheels be in line. Keep in mind, while you're aligning the rear wheel, chain tension is the absolute -last- part of the operation. Aligning the wheel is the objective, chain tension a secondary (but needed) operation. If you try to tension the chain first, then align, it's an annoying waste of time. :)

string method, in pdf no less! http://www.uponone.com/howtos/31.pdf

string method, google caches of all time favorites: http://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en-us&q=motorcycle+alignment+string+method&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8

Now, once you have assured yourself the axle is torqued correctly, take it for a short spin and see if things feel right again.

No ?

Got your air pressure gauge (you know, from your pre-ride checklist you JUST did) ? Check your tire pressures again.

Check for slop in your steering tube bearings.

Check for slop in your swingarm bushings.

Check for slop in your triple trees.

Check for slop in your front suspension.

Don't ride with wobblin wheels bra !


tt_four: "and believe me, BMW motorcycles are 50% metal, rubber and plastic, and 50% useless

AyeKay

#8
Update :

Alright, I understand that the chain adjusters have nothing to do with alignment, and I got the bike aligned pretty darn good using the V plates and keeping them steady so there was no play.

Got my Fork Seals and Springs put in and this did not effect the problem.

No Slop in front end, my tube bearings are fine.

I'm leaning towards wheel balance since the problem goes is only present usually around 45-60 then fades out over 60-80

Bike drives straight as well, doesn't happen at low speeds.

The shop that put on my rear tire put the tread on BACKWARDS! :mad: I had them fix it but I'm starting to question if they balanced it properly.


Pigeonroost

Getting a tire on backward is one of those  "**it happens", but riding it that way for long may ruin some tires.  Maybe the resident tire expert on here will respond.  Balancing with a static wheel stand is no big deal and is accurate if the tire is good.

I recently experienced the stuck axle adjustment thing and even my big ole #13 boots would not kick t free -- so I sat on the bike with the axle loose and pushed it backward before slaming on the rear brake -- took a couple of try, but it freed-up.  The guys here corrected me about going by adjuster bolt lenght and I used teh string method.  Low and behold, in my case, the adjusters were then even too and so were the very hard to see notches.  But, I can see how that would vary bike to bke.

prs

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