Wondering if fixing is worth it? Needs new drive shaft. Pics included.

[stormchaser]

Riding home couple days ago heard a pop and gushing oil out. Had to call my wife to take it home in the back of my truck. Opened the clutch cover and the oil seals had blown out. Looks like the ball bearings came out and where grinding around by the drive shaft. Took off the sprocket and was really loose. My guess is the connection between the sprocket and the drive shaft was too loose and wobbled around and blew out the ball bearings. I'm starting to take the motor off to split it so I can replace drive shaft. But wondering if the new oil seals will hold since it got gouched a little bit. Don't want to spend the money on a new drive shaft if I put it back together and it leaks oil. Pictures included. Appreciate any advice.

P.S. Does anyone know the size socket for the clutch hub bolt?

[gearman]

But wondering if the new oil seals will hold since it got gouched a little bit. Don't want to spend the money on a new drive shaft if I put it back together and it leaks oil.

The seals run on the spacer behind the sprocket, not the shaft itself. Part #37 on this schematic: http://www.bikebandit.com/assets/schematics/Suzuki/SU0083_017.gif

[The Buddha]

Is the bearing seated on the outer race. If so, I dont think getting the clutch side out is gonna help you get the outer race out. The clutch is centered on the push rod, about 4 inches forward of the countershaft.
You can try cutting the race, but I once broke a bearing in a wheel. Same way, the cage and balls broke. And I could get to the back side of it, and still had a hard time getting it out.
I'd try a reamer tool or maybe welding a small bar to it across like a bridge and try turning and slowly pulling it. Better yet, weld ears to it and warm the case ... aluminum will expand a lot and may let the bearing come loose. Either way, you need a lot of luck on this one boy.
Cool.
Buddha.

[stormchaser]

No I have to split case to replace drive shaft. Two balls came out of the ball bearing housing. Only way I know is to split engine to change ball bearing housing on drive shaft. But, the problem is the balls gouched the metal a little bit where the two oils seals seat on the drive shaft and not sure the seals will hold back the oil, after I've spent $200 in parts for new shaft and other parts.

[sledge]

HTF has that happened??? ......anyway that bearing WONT pull out, its an NR series, its retained in the housing by a semi-circular clip on its outter race that fits inside a groove in the case, you cant see it until you split the cases. If the bearing has collapsed the shaft will have dropped and chances are the gears and selectors will have been damaged ...it needs to be split and carefully examined.

[Dellolled]

If your looking for parts, i still have a bottom end with a blown big end bearing. Crankshaft is cooked but the rest seems fine. Let me know what you need and i'm sure we can work something ou!

Dan

[stormchaser]

Thanks Dan. I might do that for sure. Is drive shaft good at the end where the sprocket goes on. That is where the teeth on mine are all worn down and might of caused this crap in the first place.  Probably will have case open tomorrow. Got to get a 27mm socket to get clutch hub off. Worried about three screws underneath clutch hub. Book says they're really tight. Worried about stripping them. If I do then I'm screwed for sure.

[Dellolled]

Don't know what they are alled in english but you should get one of these screwdrivers. You set the direction and hit it with a hammer, that causes the whole thing to turn a bit and will get the screws out without stripping the head.



Dan

[ohgood]

Don't know what they are alled in english but you should get one of these screwdrivers. You set the direction and hit it with a hammer, that causes the whole thing to turn a bit and will get the screws out without stripping the head.



Dan

impact driver, slam stick, a whole assortment of other names, most common is impact driver.

watching this thread for a hopefull outcome.

[sledge]

You need to be careful with those things and ensure you use the correct bit.... most fastenings on jap bikes use JIS heads and the bits are not included in the kit. A Phillips or Pozi bit in a slamstick will cam out and could rip a tight JIS screw to sh**.  If you have to use a Phillips make it a #1 and grind 2 mm off the end.........makes for a much better fit in the head with less chance of camming out.

[Dellolled]

Good point,

Make sure the bit "grabs" the screw, otherwise it could shear off....

Dan

[stormchaser]

Thanks for the advice. Found an impact driver at Sears $25 though, oh well. Maybe, I'll return it when I'm done. Understand JIS head is different then phillips head. Didn't know that. Maybe, try the grinding down method. Will let u know how it goes.

[ATLRIDER]

A common mistake using the impact driver is that you have to reset it each time you whack it.  Otherwise when you use it on the next screw it'll work the other way and tighten the screw.

Good luck with it.

[The Buddha]

The damn chrome on the handle ... makes it slippery. I use the impact driver all the time, as a regular screw driver, its big handle and nice grip make for easy breaking of the screws on carbs etc where you cannot hit. Mine is a very rough black steel ... 
Cool.
Buddha.

[Pigeonroost]

Good point,

Make sure the bit "grabs" the screw, otherwise it could shear off....

Dan

It helps to dip the bit's end into valve grinding compound and then tap it into the screw head with the hammer a bit before really getting after it.

prs

[stormchaser]

Well got the engine apart thx for the help. Need a new drive shaft for sure, and some of the teeth on the countershaft look a little gouched. Here's a few pics.
In the third picture u can see where the ball bearing gouched the race for the drive shaft a bit. Thought maybe a soft drill attachment could at least smooth it out, only a guess if the oil seal will work.

[yamahonkawazuki]

  not good m8

[sledge]

Are you 100% sure the selector forks are ok? When a gearbox craps out its very rare they survive.

You are taking a chance with chipped gear teeth they will be noisy and if the case hardening has broken off they will wear rapidly, and with the (what appears to be) damaged bearing housing and journal but some Loctite bearing fit will help. You might be lucky with the seal and be able to "glue" it in with case sealant......but the whole job is never gonna be 100%

Its a question of economics now...the cost of a 2ndhand engine against the parts costs and the time/effort to rebuild the original engine and the possible reliabilty issue.

[Papu]

Dont know the price there but i ve solved a similar problem with my gs using a gs 450 drive shaft with a little modification at the sprocket end, and sure gs450 driveshaft is cheaper than de 500.
also you will have the benefit of using a nut to secure the sprocket and not a circlip anymore.

[stormchaser]

Well I found "ridenow.com" in Az would be about $200 for all the parts new OEM. $104 drive shaft, two oil seals, ball bearing housing, oil pan gasket, signal generator gasket, cylindar gasket, sprocket, spacer for drive shaft, oil seal retainer, 1 steel clutch plate,  and a couple of bolts I sheared off. No tax and no shipping costs when over $100. My head gasket is new going to try to reuse. I don't know if it is worth it or should I try for a new engine or rebuilt. I don't know the cost of rebuilts though. The grooves on the engine casing seemed to be centered aroung the oil groove. Seems to be pretty good on the outside perimeter where the oil seal seals. Hoping I can get lucky but its a $200 gamble. Going to use liquid gasket on the halves, but is there something I can use on the drive shaft oil seals to help them seal. Also, there some metal shavings inside the halves u guys know a good way to clean. Dip them in a bucket or something. Tell me what u guys think.