engine seized?

[vancouverrider]

I had a thread under "problems starting" or something like that earlier, but I'm thinking I have a few more problems than just a dead battery.

I ruled out the battery by hooking my bike up to my girlfriend's '97 aspire, and the bike still wouldn't start. Starter motor whirs, solenoid clacks, engine doesn't turn over.

But two new observations: when the key is in the "off" position, unless the bike is in neutral, I can't move the rear wheel. Even when the clutch is engaged. In first or second, the engine compression locks the rear wheel up in either direction, and engaging the clutch doesn't seem to affect anythign. Am I nuts? This isn't normal, right? Clutch doesn't need a charged battery or juice flowing in the electrical system? 

Speaking of that, when the key is "on," I can't shift! When I move the shift lever up or down, this little box just clicks at me:

hhttp://www.flickr.com/photos/32497636@N04/

Okay. So I'm clearly in way over my head for someone with almost no automotive/mechanical experience. My question, and sorry if it's really stupid and obvious, is: do I have a seized engine?

Why the engine might be seized: I dropped the bike once on the left side, and it landed on a dirt embankment that was luckily very close to me. Still, the left-hand crankcase cover contacted the pavement and there's a little bit of damage on the front bottom of the stator coil assembly (I think, that's the part that juts out on the crankcase cover?)

I currently have the bike stored safely for the winter. Cylinders defogged, fuel stabilized, chain clean, frame clean. I just need to drain the carbs and change the oil. Was hoping to get the engine going so I could actually change the oil properly, but I guess I'll have to change it cold.

Thanks in advance for any help anyone can give me. I will be taking my bike into the dealer, mostly because I'm an idiot and managed to shear off one of the screws for the starter motor cover while tightening it 

[Paulcet]

Nah, just because you can't turn the engine with the wheel in 1st or 2nd doesn't mean the motor's seized.  Try it in 4th or higher gear.  In 1st or 2nd you don't have enough mechanical advantage to overcome the compression.  As for the inability to move the bike or wheel with the clutch lever pulled (clutch DISengaged), cold thick oil will cause that to some extent.

The little clicking box?  Might be the ignition relay.  It will energize and de-energize when you make and break the neutral switch.

[gsJack]

I doubt if your minor drop mishap could have damaged your engine and caused it to lockup.  But you might as well rule that out quickly.  Just pull the little round cover on the right end of the crank that covers the signal generator and with the tranny in neutral try to turn the engine over clockwise with a 19 mm wrench on the larger hex.  Don't try to turn it with the little hex head screw that holds the rotor on.  Engine should turn over with minor effort, little or no effort if you pull the plugs.

If you really are hearing the starter motor whirling without the engine turning over when you try to start it there must be a problem in the starter drive.  The sprag type overrun starter drive clutch engages automatically when the starter motor starts to turn.  A low battery could fake you out on that.  Jumping a bike from a car battery can be a bit tricky getting a good connection.  You have to wiggle the jumper cable clamps a bit on both ends to make sure your getting a good connection.  If your hearing the battery solenoid clicking there is probably a low bike battery and a bad jumper connection or a bad solenoid.  Jumping the solenoid should check that out.

[vancouverrider]

Thanks for the quick responses and advice.

Paulcet: I'll give it a shot in a higher gear in the morning. I'm still confused as to why I can shift down or up when the electrical is off, but can't when it's on.

gsJack: I'll try turning the engine over manually tomorrow, but what does it mean to jump the solenoid?

And is there a straightforward way to get that little screw piece out of the crankcase? Tricks, or tools?

[beRto]

Thanks for the quick responses and advice.

Any progress? Did you get the motor to turn over? Did you bring the bike to a shop?

Paulcet: I'll give it a shot in a higher gear in the morning. I'm still confused as to why I can shift down or up when the electrical is off, but can't when it's on.

This sounds pretty typical. The transmission doesn't like to shift while the bike is stationary. Try rolling the bike forward/back after a shift - you should then be able to shift again. Alternately, put the bike on the centrestand and roll the rear tire a little after each shift. You should be able to go through all the gears using either approach.

gsJack: I'll try turning the engine over manually tomorrow, but what does it mean to jump the solenoid?

Jumping the solenoid means that you manually connect the terminals that would usually be connected by properly working solenoid. This provides power to the starter and can help determine if you have a faulty solenoid. The process can be somewhat dangerous because there is a lot of electrical current flowing in the starting circuit (which is why the solenoid is used instead of a direct switch, in the first place). Another method is to remove the solenoid and test it with a multimeter (if required, I can send the service manual directions).

Here are a couple of threads where this is mentioned:
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=43895.msg492183#msg492183
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=43024.0

And a schematic from Kerry's website:

And is there a straightforward way to get that little screw piece out of the crankcase? Tricks, or tools?

There are several methods to remove a broken bolt. This site gives some ideas: http://pantablo500.tripod.com/id10.html
There are also several related threads on this board.

If you post a picture, you will probably get some suggestions specific for your case. Personally, I've never removed a broken bolt myself. It's only come up once. The bolt had no exposed threads (i.e. no Vise Grips), so I decided it was easier to pay a shop $20 and save myself the hassle.