need help locating idle air screw

[Flash]

I just installed my #125 main jets and #40 pilot jets like everyone suggested for a stock muffler/air filter setup, but I can't seem to find the idle air screw everyone keeps talking about. Not even sure if I need to drill out the brass plug until I find the darn thing.

1) Is there one for each carb or one for both?
2) Is it on the removable metal cover, in the middle, or near the diaphram cover?

Pics would be very helpful

Thanks in advance

[Kerry]

Flash, go to my website (link below), follow the "Float Height Check" link, and click on the first picture to see a larger version.

The brass plug for the left carb is in between the two Phillips-head screws on the metal rail in front of the carb.  It has a small hole in the center.

There is one for each carb.

[JasonB]

http://electrovw.tripod.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/drainscrew.jpg

#2 is the screw also with the brass plug covering it.

Have to copy the link and paste it into a new browser window, cant click on it from in this post to see the pic.

Thank JeffD for the image. There is also a howto at the link below courtesy of JeffD.

http://electrovw.tripod.com/welcome/id17.html


And a Carb rebuild link on GStwin.

http://www.gstwin.com/carb_work.htm

[Flash]

Thanks for the quick response guys!

Ok. Now, do I have to adjust both of the idle air screws X amount of turns? Every info/instruction page I've read implied turning one idle air screw.

[scratch]

First one screw, then the other. Unless you are ambidextrous and can turn them both simultaneously and accurately.

[KevinC]

Just one small point - the GS doesn't have air screws, they are idle fuel screws. It does make a difference when you are trying to figure out which way to turn them for richer or leaner.

[pizzleboy]

So how do you get rid of the brass plugs without pulling the carbs out?

[Flash]

Thanks KevinC for that clarification: idle fuel screws, not air screws. I got that from another post. I learn something new on this forum everyday.

Now I'm ready to put my bike together and should finish by this weekend. Almost forgot, I still have to wait to receive and install my modified ignition rotor from Bob B.  It will be worth it though

[Flash]

Pizzleboy, there is no way you are going to get the brass plugs out without removing the carbs (along with the gas tank, air filter, seat, side panels, etc.). There' just not enough space.

It was my first time getting to the carbs. What a pain in the ass. Hoses everywhere, tight as heck, and the gas tank and fuel petcock were the biggest headaches for me. At least it will be easier the next time around.

To remove the brass plugs (one for each carb) you will need:
- 3/32 metal drill bit / electric drill
- #4 x 5/8 wood screw / screwdriver
- channel lock pliers

STEP 1) I started small, using a 1/16 & 5/64 bits, and finally ended up with a 3/32 drill bit. Be very careful drilling because the brass plug is only 3mm thick. Directly underneath that is the idle fuel screw. If you go too deep you will damage the head. If you drill slowly you can kinda "feel" where the brass plug ends and the idle screw begins.

STEP 2) After you have made your hole use a screw driver and wood screw to screw into the hole until you bottom out.

STEP 3) Use the channel lock pliers to get a hold on the head of the wood screw and pull straight up. Plugs comes right out.

STEP 4) Repeat steps 1-3 with the other remaining brass plug.

[Pkaaso]

Be very careful not to drill too far.  You will hit the top of the adjusting screw.  The plug is only about 3/16" thick.

Plug w/easyout