No spark after restart

[smokedogg]

Hello,

I am fairly new to motorcycles and recently purchased my first GS500E. It's a model from '95 with around 27k miles to the clock.
The problem that I'm expericing, is that it more and more often will fail to spark on the right cylinder.
This only happens if I shut the engine off and restart it. Then I have to wait a few hours for it to get cold again, and it will again spark.

If I start the engine and just keep on driving, it runs fine. It's only when it is restarted, that the spark disappears from the right side.

I've tried replacing the sparks with new ones.
I've tried changing the coils (Right to left) (Left to right).
I've checked the wiring for shorts etc.
I''ve cleaned the carb.

Also I'm having big problems getting a steady idle below 3000rpms? The bike will die below that.

Anyone with some good ideas?

[lawman]

As a rule, I start with the simplest thing first.  You tried new plugs - what about new plug-wires?  Yours may be 13 years old...  Did you do all the testing when it wouldn't give you spark (hot, as you say, rather than cold?) ?   you changed the coils...  hmmm.  Thinking out loud...  On one side is strange, but did you check the stator/generator? 

[smokedogg]

Just took her for a ride. Everything went smooth the first 15miles. Then it happened again: lost spark on right side, although this time it happened while the motor was still running.
I had to roll home on only the left cylinder. After a few miles I momentarily started loosing power on left side to. This happened multiply times.

I finally reached my garage and thought I would check the wiring. Fiddled a little with the black connector under the seat on left side (the one with 4 cables in each side) and tried to fire her up again. Now she was sparking in both sides. Looks like its a cable problem. Will investigate further right away.


Thx so far...

[The Buddha]

Crank trigger. Hot = more resistance, though I have usually seen these fail if you let revs drop to under 5K. It will get worse and worse ... till it dont run at all on that cyl.
Cool.
Buddha.

[The Buddha]

Oh that was my next guess.
Its been covered by Kerry in one of his great pictorial type posts.
Cool.
Buddha.

[smokedogg]

Hmm, just ripped everything apart to inspect all wires.
Doesn't look like a bad connection after all. Can't detect any weak or loose wires. I just gave all the connectors a bit of compressed air and a little WD40. About to put it all together to check for any difference.

Buddha, I'm listening...

Is it possible that this is also the reason why I can't get the idle right?

An were do I find this Crank Trigger on the Suzu?

Thx in advance..

[smokedogg]

Well, I got confirmed that it wasn't a loose connector or cable.
So I guess it must be the so called crank trigger. Perhaps I'll be able to get a new one tomorrow.

What I don't get is why only one of the two plugs fails to deliver spark. If the trigger is damaged shouldn't both of them fail?

Plus the trigger doesn't look very advanced, how can a system with only one moving part fail, when the part is still moving? 

[The Buddha]

Yea the other 2 non moving parts are electronically wired, and super computer equipped geniuses. One of them has died as is usually the case when you sneeze on it.
Cool.
Buddha.

[smokedogg]

Ok, but it is pretty straight forward to install a new one?

Sure hope that turns out to be the problem. I'm forced to bicycle now. 
Probably shouldn't have sold the car, when I got the MC.

[The Buddha]

Oh, once you pay up suzuki the 150 bones they want for the 12 cent piece of insulation that breaks down and shorts to ground, its a 5 minute install.
Once again, they have made a 3cent part fail attached it irremovably to a 100 dollar inductive device and are charging you big $$ when you toss out perfectly useable inductive pickup's.
As always, a fuse will be saved by the picture tube, or in this case, the fuse did fail, but its buried deep inside the picture tube and you need to break that to swap the fuse.
Cool.
Buddha.

[smokedogg]

Picked up a used crank trigger + used CDI for 110$ in the other end of the country.
Replaced the crank trigger and I have not experienced the problem since.

Very very nifty...

Thx a bunch Buddha. You're the man. Saved my christmas. 

Now I can start to focus on my original issue. Idle at 3000rpm and above. Below this the bike will die. I can make it idle at 1000-1500rpms with the throttle. But very little interaction if any is required for it suddenly to jump to 3000 - 4000 rpms. 

I have cleaned the carbs with compressed air and some thin wire. Air filter looks healthy.
Intake manifold rubber is with no apparent cracks. Tried spraying some WD-40 on these while running, but it didn't make the engine rev more.