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National Cycle F-16 Touring windscreen questions

Started by Juan1, February 17, 2009, 07:07:21 PM

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pronator

Quote from: trumpetguy on February 19, 2009, 01:54:55 PM
Indeed, the fragility of the mounting points is the Achilles Heel of the F16.  I ride in a VERY windy environment most of the time (there are over 100 wind generators in my immediate area) and had my F16 crack at the bottom holes secured by the headlight bucket bolts.  

To repair it, I cut off the bottom part of the shield on each side (containing the cracked hole area) and made a piece of aluminum the same shape and formed it with the same curve.  Then I drilled a hole in each metal piece for the bolt and used 3/16" aluminum pop rivets to attach the metal plates to the bottom sides of the F16 (to replace the cracked plastic part).  I can tighten the headlight bucket bolt MUCH tighter without fear of cracking since the bolt is tightening against aluminum, not plastic.  It seems much sturdier now.

You know what I'm going to say, don't you? PICTURES!!!! Please? :cheers:

lsdozer

Pronator,  Thanks for the great pics.  They are what I needed to see.  I think I like the F-16 Tour.  Looks to be big enough, but not too big.  Now have to find one used or maybe for cheap.

Lewis
90 GS500E (sons)
03 Kawasaki Concours
86 Yamaha Radian (work in progress)

pronator

Quote from: lsdozer on February 19, 2009, 03:01:15 PM
Pronator,  Thanks for the great pics.  They are what I needed to see.  I think I like the F-16 Tour.  Looks to be big enough, but not too big.  Now have to find one used or maybe for cheap.

Lewis

Happy to help!  :cheers:

lsdozer

BTW Pronator,

    What a great write-up on your custom top case rack!  This is the stuff I like to do, tinkering wise and would be a worthwhile addition. 

Only thing I didnt understand was what are "emt" pipes?

Lewis
90 GS500E (sons)
03 Kawasaki Concours
86 Yamaha Radian (work in progress)

pronator

Quote from: lsdozer on February 19, 2009, 03:51:45 PM
BTW Pronator,

    What a great write-up on your custom top case rack!  This is the stuff I like to do, tinkering wise and would be a worthwhile addition. 

Only thing I didnt understand was what are "emt" pipes?

Lewis

Thanks - I'm actually in the process of doing the changes to the rack that I talked about last year. It's in the works but my welder has been really busy with other jobs that I'm not holding my breath. But they look much better than the originals. EMT pipe is electrical metal tubing. I wouldn't recommend it if you're going to make your own. I used EMT originally because of luksi's rack. But the EMT has a coating on it that sputters a lot while being welded. Raw steel is much better.

These were the changes I wanted to make to the original rack:

http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=42034.0

This is how things are going so far. Close, but not quite yet:

http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=46417.0       (Reply #12)

Good luck!

gearman

Lots of useful info here. We'll be installing the F16 on my sons GS in the near future. I'll try to come up with a different clamp arrangement now that I've seen how it fits up
'06 SV650S*****'05 FJR1300***** '94 GS500 (not mine-I operate the wrenches)

fred

Quote from: pronator on February 19, 2009, 04:18:41 PM
Quote from: lsdozer on February 19, 2009, 03:51:45 PM
BTW Pronator,

    What a great write-up on your custom top case rack!  This is the stuff I like to do, tinkering wise and would be a worthwhile addition. 

Only thing I didnt understand was what are "emt" pipes?

Lewis

Thanks - I'm actually in the process of doing the changes to the rack that I talked about last year. It's in the works but my welder has been really busy with other jobs that I'm not holding my breath. But they look much better than the originals. EMT pipe is electrical metal tubing. I wouldn't recommend it if you're going to make your own. I used EMT originally because of luksi's rack. But the EMT has a coating on it that sputters a lot while being welded. Raw steel is much better.

These were the changes I wanted to make to the original rack:

http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=42034.0

This is how things are going so far. Close, but not quite yet:

http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=46417.0       (Reply #12)

Good luck!


Yeah, those coatings are usually really really bad for you in vapor form, which is what happens to them when you heat them up to welding temperature. I'd go with regular old steel tubing from IMS or whatever local metal supplier you can find...

substudio

I bought the F-16 sport windshield and noticed an immediate difference on the freeway.

it gives a nice sporty look to the gs

Watch out for that metal to plastic bracket. I lost on on the freeway it just vibrated its way off but it doesn't affect the mounting much except if you want it set upright more.
I would use some loctite or drill a small hole  and secure it with a wire cable so that the bolt doesn't make its way off.

'93 Suzuki GS500e restoration project
been riding now for:  388 miles now

added an National Shield F-16 Sport
SS Brake Lines - Valves adjusted
Electric Tach from '05 GS
All new filters
Brake Pads
All New Cables
Rebuilt Carbs
Rebuilt Forks

trumpetguy

Quote from: pronator on February 19, 2009, 02:01:55 PM
Quote from: trumpetguy on February 19, 2009, 01:54:55 PM
Indeed, the fragility of the mounting points is the Achilles Heel of the F16.  I ride in a VERY windy environment most of the time (there are over 100 wind generators in my immediate area) and had my F16 crack at the bottom holes secured by the headlight bucket bolts.  

To repair it, I cut off the bottom part of the shield on each side (containing the cracked hole area) and made a piece of aluminum the same shape and formed it with the same curve.  Then I drilled a hole in each metal piece for the bolt and used 3/16" aluminum pop rivets to attach the metal plates to the bottom sides of the F16 (to replace the cracked plastic part).  I can tighten the headlight bucket bolt MUCH tighter without fear of cracking since the bolt is tightening against aluminum, not plastic.  It seems much sturdier now.

You know what I'm going to say, don't you? PICTURES!!!! Please? :cheers:

Here are two quickly snapped pics of my repair to the mounting tabs of my F16 (don't mind the splattered bugs -- they are a near-permanent fixture because I'd rather ride than wash!).  I used aluminum backup washers behind each rivet.  My repair also reinforces the area where the angle-adjusting bracket squeezes.

I probably have over 10,000 miles on mine so far.  I'm too cheap to buy a new one so I repaired it!



TrumpetGuy
1998 Suzuki GS500E
1982 Suzuki GS1100E
--------------------------------------
"Every gun that is made, every warship launched, every rocket fired signifies, in the final sense, a theft from those who hunger and are not fed, those who are cold and not clothed." -- Dwight D. Eisenhower

gearman

#29
We installed the F-16 Sport shield yesterday and it appears the clamp isn't really needed because the shield is not able to swivel forward due to resting on the headlamp and back because it rests on the tach/speedo. Has anyone else ran into this situation? If it's ok to run it like this, that would be great because the circular slots for the clamps are perfect for mounting the SV turn signals we're planning to install.

Edit: pic of how SV signals will look mounted on the F-16 shield
'06 SV650S*****'05 FJR1300***** '94 GS500 (not mine-I operate the wrenches)

Juan1

Installed mine yesterday. Initial impressions:

-At 80, it keeps the wind off my chest up, but I can feel a bit on my shoulders.  For reference, I'm 5'11" with a slightly long torso. 

-Much better protection than the E model's optional fairing.

-The screen vibrates up until there is about 40 MPH of wind pushing on it because of section 3 of my next point.

-The attachment set up is terrible.  I used the recommended set up, but added rubber washers to prevent any metal on plexiglass contact.  The flaws in the set up are 3 fold:
1.  Metal on plastic is a recipe for breakage. 
2.  Trumpet Guy's picture demonstrates the worst part of the set up. Look at the small strip of metal runs from near the rivets to the headlight bracket.  On an unbroken screen, this strip secures the screen primarily by pulling the plexiglass outward with the bolt whose threads you can see in the pic.  A recipe for breakage, yet a poor method of holding the screen securely.
3.  The 2 attachment points are very close together, and only one of them is truly secure (the part that actually is bolted to the headlight.
*  Will probably try to improve upon the second attachment point that I criticized above and live with the vibration near idle.
1982 Kawi GPZ-750, 1998 GS500.

lsdozer

Juan1,

    How is the wind at about 70 and below?  Are you happy with its wind blocking and looks wise?

Lewis
90 GS500E (sons)
03 Kawasaki Concours
86 Yamaha Radian (work in progress)

Juan1

70 and below, there isn't much wind on you.  It hits the helmet and shoulders, but that's about it.

The screen is adjustable, but it looks its best when it is adjusted all the way back (not upright).  Pronator's pictures demonstrate how it looks in the visually ideal position, and I consider his pictures to be very accurate representations.  He even nails the level of tint, which is a bit lighter than I'd like.

My sense is that the shield is a great compromise between form and function.  If you want a beauty queen (looks great but doesn't do any work), go with a Buell Blast screen or the National Cycle F-16 Sport (not Tour).  If you want a serving wench (terrible to look at, but does great work), take a gander at the F-15 Tour Shield, National Cycle's largest Deflector series screen, or the Plexifairing GT.  The F-16 is something in the middle.  It looks good and it keeps the wind off of all but the very top of your chest on the freeway.  This screen is a keeper.
1982 Kawi GPZ-750, 1998 GS500.

pronator

Agreed on the rubber washers to prevent metal on plexi contact though I'm always I'll crank too hard and crack it anyways.

I was hoping the tint would be darker, too, and even thought about painting it black (from the inside) but then I realized that I wouldn't really be able to see through it if I was tucked behind. With the sport, your eye level is likely over the top of the screen so a dark tint can work for that beauty queen look. With the tour, you're eye level is below the top of the screen.

It's unlikely the screen would hold itself upright at high speeds given the attachments that have been described. I've never actually tried because it does look best all the way back against the tach/speedo.

Glad the pics helped and you found it representative, Juan1. Just for future reference,  :whisper: : Pronator's a she.  ;)

fred

Quote from: pronator on February 27, 2009, 05:29:07 PM
Agreed on the rubber washers to prevent metal on plexi contact though I'm always I'll crank too hard and crack it anyways.

I was hoping the tint would be darker, too, and even thought about painting it black (from the inside) but then I realized that I wouldn't really be able to see through it if I was tucked behind. With the sport, your eye level is likely over the top of the screen so a dark tint can work for that beauty queen look. With the tour, you're eye level is below the top of the screen.

It's unlikely the screen would hold itself upright at high speeds given the attachments that have been described. I've never actually tried because it does look best all the way back against the tach/speedo.

Glad the pics helped and you found it representative, Juan1. Just for future reference,  :whisper: : Pronator's a she.  ;)

If the screen is right at your eyeline, how do you do in the rain? I'd worry about it being yet another clear plastic surface to collect drops of water on... Do you rain-x it?

gearman

Maybe there is something different about the headlamp or shield, but it will only rotate a few degrees forward from resting on the instruments. Maybe I need to trim some material from the lip in the radius area that goes around the headlamp. :dunno_black:
'06 SV650S*****'05 FJR1300***** '94 GS500 (not mine-I operate the wrenches)

airnuts

Hey pronator I thought about getting the f16 too but was also looking at Givi's 700 windscreen.  I wound up going with givi but i still really like how NC's looked.  the deciding factor was it's mounting.  givi has four strong 3/8" mounting bars, 2 for the handlebars and 2 for the forks, large plastic on plastic mounts.  takes a while to put on but its not going anywhere.  and there is no buffeting at any speed on the screen or my helmet.... but im 5'6.  I put pics up in the member bikes zone. let me know whacha think.

bill14224

Hmm... that's funny, I've had a bad back since a hockey injury in 1975 and my back doesn't hurt no matter how long I ride my bike, and mine's naked.  I think you need to have the seat reupholstered with better foam.  www.knoplace.com

Lowest prices anywhere.  :thumb:

If you get a bigger windshield, I'd love to buy your stock windshield if it's still in good condition.
V&H pipes, K&N drop-in, seat by KnoPlace.com, 17/39 sprockets, matching grips, fenderectomy, short signals, new mirrors - 10 scariest words: "I'm here from the government and I'm here to help!"

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