Eliminating ignition switch

[omrimon]

I need the assistance of you electrical guys out there.

I would like to replace the ignition switch on my race bike with a simple on/off toggle switch in order to eliminate the need for a key.

What are the specs that I should look for in a toggle switch in terms of rated Volts, Amps, Ohms etc.?

Thanks.

[jeremy_nash]

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=DOR&MfrPartNumber=85904&CategoryCode=3063D

more than rated to do what u need to do.  available at any auto parts store.  if your bike isnt stored covered, you should get one that is moisture proof

[omrimon]

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=DOR&MfrPartNumber=85904&CategoryCode=3063D

more than rated to do what u need to do.  available at any auto parts store.  if your bike isnt stored covered, you should get one that is moisture proof

That's the problem, I don't know what sort of sort of rating I need for this job.

[beRto]

The ignition switch is only used to trigger the starter relay. It does not see much electrical load. In fact, it would be hard to find an automotive switch that would not work for this application.

In the worst case, the bike has a 12 V system and is fused at 20 A. You can calculate the power by multiplying these two values together: (12)*(20) = 240 W. You should find that most switches you come across are rated higher than this. And since the ignition doesn't see anything close to 20 A, you would be fine with anything rated on this order.

You don't need to worry about resistance (Ohms). By definition, a switch has only two resistance values: infinite when the switch is open, and approx. zero when the switch is closed.

[omrimon]

Do you reckon This one would do the job?

[bill14224]

Bad link.  Can't look at the switch you're interested in.

I just consulted my manual and any threaded, weatherproof, 20 amp rated (or more) toggle switch will do nicely.  Take all 4 wires off the ignition switch.  Connect the red wire to the center of the new switch.  Connect the other 3 wires (orange, brown, and gray) together, then connect to the "on" side of the new switch.  The ignition switch does more than "trigger the starter relay".  It supplies power to many areas of the electrical system, and controls the others. (starter, ignition control unit, rectifier)  I have the schematic diagrams right in front of me.  Be careful who you listen to.  The diagrams are different for the several model runs and markets, (US and UK) but my instructions will work for any of them as the ignition switch is the same for all. 

[omrimon]

Sorry about that, link fixed.

This switch has three terminals, is the wirig still gonna be the same as you listed?

[beRto]

Alright, I stand corrected (Thanks, bill14224). Having consulted the schematic (http://wiki.gstwins.com/index.php?n=Main.UKELMNPRSTModels), the ignition switch does appear to act as the distribution hub to the rest of the bike. This means the switch could see the full 20 A (240 W) load.

But the rest of the info previously provided is still correct. And most full-sized switches you find at the hardware/automotive store will work fine for this application.

The switch you linked is rated at 12 V and 25 A, so it should work in this application. I'm not certain, but the third leg may be the power supply line for the light inside the switch. To be certain, you may want to contact the seller for a schematic diagram.

As others have said, you want to make sure the switch is protected against moisture. The one you linked to doesn't look especially well sealed. If possible, I would suggest looking at a local marine supply store.