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Oil leak -- FROM HELL! (will not seal no matter what!)

Started by tussey, March 26, 2009, 08:03:46 PM

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tussey

This oil leak has been sanctioned by Satan himself. NOTHING I do will seal it. So I'm asking for suggestions/help.

The part is a vacuum pump that attaches to the side of the top half of the engine block. See pics below The car is a 2000 VW Jetta TDI

Here is what I've done so far.

0. Cleaned surfaces. The mating surfaces are smooth, there are no gouges or scratches.
1. New gasket, properly torqued.
2. New gasket, Permatex® High-Temp Red RTV Silicone Gasket Maker, properly torqued
3. New gasket, Permatex® Form-A-Gasket® No. 2 Gasket Sealant, properly torqued
4. New gasket, Permatex® Form-A-Gasket® No. 1 Gasket Sealant, properly torqued

The *only* thing I think might help is buying the $40 tube of VW approved gasket sealant.  :icon_rolleyes:
I'm beginning to think the problem might be high oil pressure. Thoughts?


(the tiny hole is the oil supply. The nickel sized hole is oil return.

TheGoodGuy

'01 GS500. Mods: Katana Shock, Progessive Springs, BobB's V&H  Advancer Clone, JeffD's LED tail lights & LED licence plate bolt running lights, flanders superbike bars, magnet under the bike. Recent mods: Rejet with 20/62.5/145, 3 shims on needle, K&N Lunch box.

trumpetguy

Talk (very nicely) to the service manager at the VW dealership.  They just may tell you what to do.
TrumpetGuy
1998 Suzuki GS500E
1982 Suzuki GS1100E
--------------------------------------
"Every gun that is made, every warship launched, every rocket fired signifies, in the final sense, a theft from those who hunger and are not fed, those who are cold and not clothed." -- Dwight D. Eisenhower

5thAve

Have you tried making a gasket from good ol' fashioned paper material? Paper gaskets swell when they are exposed to oil, maybe it will help to seal for you? Dunno. Not much experience here.
GS500EM currently undergoing major open-heart surgery.
Coming eventually: 541cc with 78mm Wiseco pistons; K&N Lunchbox; Vance & Hines; 40 pilot / 147.5 main jets; Progressive fork springs; 15W fork oil; Katana 750 shock

VFR750FM beautifully stock.
XV750 Virago 1981 - sold
XL185s 1984 - sold

bill14224

You are making it up.  There is no problem.  Everyone knows that Volkswagens, like Toyotas and Hondas, never break or exibit any nagging problems.

Are you sure it's the gasket surface that's leaking, and not the vacuum pump itself?
V&H pipes, K&N drop-in, seat by KnoPlace.com, 17/39 sprockets, matching grips, fenderectomy, short signals, new mirrors - 10 scariest words: "I'm here from the government and I'm here to help!"

ATLRIDER

I've had good luck using Threebond 1104 (aka Yamabond).  I just read in a thread that the 1104 may be discontinued and is now 1194.  Something to do with lead content in it.  I'd let it set overnight before starting the engine to be sure it's well cured.

Apparently the Porsche guys like using it to seal engine cases. 

http://www.europeancarweb.com/projectcars/0510_porsche_911_sc_carrera_engine_assembly/index.html

Good luck
K&N Lunchbox, K&N Engine Breather, Hella Angel Eyes, Buell Turn signals, Kat 750 Rear Shock, Progressive Springs, MC Case Guards, Aluminum Ignition Cover, V&H Full Exhaust, Ignition Advancer, 15T Sprocket, Srinath Bars, Gel Seat, Dual FIAMM Freeway Blaster horns

joshr08

if your thinking high oil pressure that would mean you have an oil passage blocked somewhere right?
05 GS500F
mods
k&n air filter,pro grip gel grips,removed grab handle,pro grip carbin fiber tank pad,14/45 sprockets RK X-oring Chain, Kat rear shock swap and Kat rear wheel swap 160/60-17 Shinko raven rear 120/60-17 front matching set polished and painted rims

spc

I'd do a thorough check of the pump.  Chances are, unless you got an OEM part it was quickly assembled in Mexico or China and not up to par with what was most likely a Bosch component originally.  German cars don't like Mexinese parts.

GeeP

Interesting that it's being that much of a PITA.

Just for conformity, here's my procedure:



Buy a new gasket

Clean both surfaces thoroughly with a single-edged razor blade.  Be sure not to gouge the Aluminum.

Further clean the surfaces with a maroon Scotch Brite pad to remove any final traces of old gasket.

Clean the surface of all oil, grit, etc. with a rag soaked in carburetor cleaner.

Cover both sides of the gasket with a light, even coat of Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket #3.

Reassemble while tacky and torque the fasters to specification.

Wait 24-48 hours before operating.




I never install a gasket without priming it with Form-A-Gasket.

Somehow, I've gained the reputation as the local CAV DPA series injection pump guru.  I seal the tricky leak-prone advancer housings to the body of the pump with Permatex #1.  They always leak coming in, but I never have to re-work one.  Aircraft engines are assembled sans gaskets with Permatex #3.  Unless the surfaces are not flat, you shouldn't be having that much trouble unless there's a procedural error.



Failing all that, try Hylomar PL32M or H.
Every zero you add to the tolerance adds a zero to the price.

If the product "fails" will the product liability insurance pay for the "failure" until it turns 18?

Red '96
Black MK2 SV

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