Second regulator ????

[bill14224]

Hang on a second.  12.6 volts is a chemical reality.  A fully-charged lead-acid battery in good condition will measure 2.1 volts/cell x 6 cells = 12.6 volts, whether it's for a car, or a bike, or a lawn tractor.

Even a cheap digital multimeter can measure 0.1 volts in a 20-volt range, so if it's measuring 12.5 instead of 12.6, the battery doesn't have any dead cells, and it's most likely still good, but its specific gravity isn't quite high enough, it's not quite fully charged, or it's beginning to go downhill.

[ATLRIDER]

B4 going out and buying a R/R why not run some definitive tests.  It's real ez on the GS and all you need is a meter with diode mode.(Maybe another way to check without diode mode?? )
Pull off the 2 sets of connectors on r/s of bike and run tests on ones going to the regulator.  Connect one meter lead to one of the terminals on the 2 prong side and touch the other meter lead to each one of the other terminals on the 3 prong side.  You should either see O.L (or) .5v. ---record your readings.  Now working with the same terminal on the 2 prong side, swap leads and re-run same test (So you're running 6 test per terminal from the 2 prong side). 
After your done with the 1st terminal, then repeat the process on the 2nd one. 

A good diode should read .5v in one direction and O.L in the other. Hope this makes sense.

[sledge]

Unless the bike has a problem with charging the battery or the battery itself is rapidly discharging while in circuit, there is no reason to suspect the reg/rect is faulty 

Consider also that static tests with a multimeter that has 3v and negligable current behind it should never be relied on 100%. The component may behave totaly differently in operation on 12v and when its passing 10A or so.

[ATLRIDER]

Unless the bike has a problem with charging the battery or the battery itself is rapidly discharging while in circuit, there is no reason to suspect the reg/rect is faulty 

Consider also that static tests with a multimeter that has 3v and negligable current behind it should never be relied on 100%. The component may behave totaly differently in operation on 12v and when its passing 10A or so.

HI Sledge,

Assuming all 3 alternator coils are putting out roughly 110vAC and he's only seeing a below spec. output of 12.5-13v at the battery, isn't is safe to assume that checking the reg./rec is a good idea. 

[sledge]

Well.....
From whats been written I have assumed he has done the test and taken the readings out of curiosity and not because there is a problem. OK they dont tie up with those quoted in the test procedure which confuses things all the more but that could be down to a partially discharged battery when he took them or the fact his meter may be reading incorrectly. He hasnt actually said he has a charging problem so at this stage I dont see a reason to suspect the reg/rect.

The sums say the stock bike has some spare capacity but the OP has added extra lights and calculated his needs 240w max....... if you are asking me to take a guess I would say he is right on the limit of what the bikes system can cope with and at the same time keep the battery charged 

[airnuts]

WOW... boy did i stur up a hornets nest on this one....  you guys are great.  I'll have to run some tests on my '96 and see what i get.  I dont have any issues with the regulator or generator system i was just wondering if i could use the access power that is generated during 5k plus rpms by using a second/parallel regulator for extra lights, heated gear and what-not, and not affect or drain the battery.  hell i even thought about putting in a larger battery which opens up another can of worms.  again you guys are great, thanks

[sledge]

WOW... boy did i stur up a hornets nest on this one....

Hornets nest?? Nahhhh....we are just bouncing a few ideas and observations around.

[Affschnozel]

I guess at 12.6V it gets some charge and I once in a while use charger if bike seats unused (alarm draws some current)

Before buying new R/R ,I'll get another just to test charging as it is the last step in troubleshooting it

The multimeter is fine I checked my friends ER5 with it and it gave good results, I also have this beauty:

 

It's heavy duty ! 

And because you got me babbling  here's a picture of the offenders:

[sledge]

WHOWA......an AVO8,..........not seen one of them since I left University 2* odd years ago. Thats a collectors item now.

[ATLRIDER]

WOW... boy did i stur up a hornets nest on this one....

Hornets nest?? Nahhhh....we are just bouncing a few ideas and observations around.

No prob here.  Maybe learn a thing or two.

By the way, just installed my Hella Angel Eyes and at idle getting 13-13.5v with 1 bulb lit.  It'll drop about .5 to almost 1v with both on.  At 5k RPM getting about 14.5v.  Something is up with your electricals.

[ATLRIDER]

Just found this link if you decide to run some tests.

http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=38480.0

[bill14224]

This has always been a big question for me......... The max output of the alternator is a grey area, unlike some bikes I have owned I have never been able to find a quoted figure for it in any manual. Given its a 12v system Ohms law says that anymore than 240w drawn off it would allow more than 20A to flow which would cause the fuse the blow. The question is........does the alternator actually have the capacity to deliver 240w and the fuse is there to protect it from overloading and maybe burning out or does the alternator  run out of steam before this without damaging itself?

Anyone, anyone?

Sledge, the alternator output connects to the rectifier and the regulator pulls as much power from the rectifier as is needed at any particular moment, so the alternator output doesn't see the fuse, not directly.  It can't, as it's putting out AC and has to be rectified first, but I just explained that and now I'm starting to talk in circles!

I think your basic assumption that the alternator is about 240 watts max output is correct.  I read 190 somewhere but I'll be damned if I can remember where.  Maybe that was maximum load of the bike with everything on.  I'm getting old and senile.

Now to get back to the question at hand, how to get more electrical output from the GS?  I don't know if one is available, but I think the best and most practical way to do it would be to find a rotor with stronger rare-earth magnets.  More field = more output.  I don't know what type of magnets are in my GS's rotor.  I do know that magnet technology has improved during the time the GS has been in manufacture, so it's possible that new aftermarket rotors with stronger-than-stock magnets are available.

Heat, vibration, and time also conspire to weaken magnets, so it's logical that an alternator's output would decline some with use and age.  In this case a new rotor would restore the alternator to full output.

[werase643]

you could also rewire the stator for higher output......if there is room

[Affschnozel]

Sorry to hijack the post again    it's kinda on the topic as I've got a second  regulator 

unit from ER5 and put it on my bike to test it with and the bastard charges at 16.4V  and more with load , 

so that one is also toast and it overcharges , at least it reassured me that the fault is in my R/R 100%

[werase643]

if you need more output for extras
not mine....
it's on e-bay

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*RMG010

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