snapped stud whilst torquing head and barrels

gs500Ant · April 04, 2009, 12:28:28 PM

well the rebuild is going great-NOT for some reason the actuall stud (number 2 on diagram) snapped about halfway up its length,whilst torquing the head down!!! it's actually the number 1 stud.

was wondering if this has happend to anyone else? if so how easy/hard was it to replace the stud?

it looks like to me its a mattter of removing the head/pistons and cylinder barrels again.then soaking the broken stud in WD40 and attemting to remove it from the crank housing with molegrips?

i have found the replacement stud from robinsons about £7-£8

anyone had any experience with this?

all input would be greatly appreciated guys,

:cry:Ant

sorry i cant figure out how to upload pictures- this is the diagram i am refering to- http://www.alpha-sports.com/suzuki_parts.htm - 2002/k2- 2002gs500- cylinder diagram-part number 2 ( 09108-10112 )

bill14224 · April 04, 2009, 01:45:49 PM

Are you sure you read your torque wrench right? 35-40 Nm or 25.5-29 lb-ft.

If you read the wrong scale and went to 35-40 lb-ft. it would likely snap the bolt. That's all I can offer.

Good luck!

gs500Ant · April 04, 2009, 02:31:03 PM

yes was the right torque,as it was one of the front exposed studs to the eliments (a channel runs through it i guess for air cooling) i did notice rusting on it

bill14224 · April 04, 2009, 03:10:28 PM

Sorry about that. I had an axle break on a minivan once for the same reason.

Sounds like you're almost finished, don't be so glum. Before you know it you'll have an engine that's good as new!

gs500Ant · April 04, 2009, 03:20:20 PM

thanks for the cheer up bud

5thAve · April 04, 2009, 04:25:32 PM

I don't have experience with that, but my local truck (er, lorry) repair centre does. That's where I'd take it if I didn't know what to do.

gs500Ant · April 04, 2009, 04:29:38 PM

thanks for the reply and input bud

Toogoofy317 · April 04, 2009, 10:52:05 PM

Can you use a set of vice grips or some other tool that will hold onto it and get it out that way. Or if you have to drill it out and do the helicoil thing?

I dunno I stripped to allen head screws today and cant get 'em out to save my life!

Another thing I just saw on TV which seems like would be a perfect thing for you if it worked. It is galled The Grabit! Apparently you use one end of it to create it's own conical shape even in broken off heads (the ad claims) then you use the other end to grab on and take it out. $20 didn't seem like a bad deal and after today am seriously thinking of getting one myself!

Mary

fred · April 05, 2009, 12:05:05 AM

Not a terrible problem to fix. The best way to do it would be to take the thing to a machinist and see what they recommend. You could try getting it out with vice grips, but a machinist might have better tools than you do and be able to get it out if it isn't snapped off too far down. If it is snapped off, just get the machinist to mill out the old threads and helicoil the thing. It will end up stronger than the original casting and you shouldn't ever have to worry about it again. This shouldn't be a hard process... My project bike came with 4 of the 5 front rotor bolts snapped off and it only took me a half hour to helicoil all 5 bolts with the help of a machinist at work. If you have the right tools (ie, big mill and all right taps and helicoils) this isn't a difficult job. Some of the parts we make at work are even helicoiled from the beginning for added strength...

gs500Ant · April 05, 2009, 03:39:26 AM

thankyou guys,the only problem is removing all the engine from the bike and getting it to a machine shop,i havent removed all the engine before just the head and cylinders.

will try and remove the stud with WD40 and mole grips and go from there, once again thanks all for the advise.

i'll keep you posted

sledge · April 05, 2009, 05:42:46 AM

Mole grips? urrrgggh not really the best way......If you can, make friends with a mechanic who has one of these........ then ask if you can borrow it.

Drop it over the stud, put your ratchet handle in the square drive and off you go, the harder you pull the tighter it grips

gs500Ant · April 05, 2009, 01:41:55 PM

thanks sledge, you dont know what the tool is called do you?

gs500Ant · April 05, 2009, 02:58:17 PM

its ok thanks sledge,found out its called a Laser 0296 Stud Extractor 1/2 Drive Bolt And Nut Remover,will go on the hunt for one tomorrow,thanks

ATLRIDER · April 05, 2009, 03:07:02 PM

Muffler shops use these to install/remove studs. They'd probably do it for you.

gs500Ant · April 05, 2009, 03:39:32 PM

thanks ATLRIDER, but its getting the bike/crankcase to a shop thats the problem

joshr08 · April 05, 2009, 03:45:34 PM

i would think you should be able to grab one at auto zone or somewhere like that.

gs500Ant · April 05, 2009, 03:52:46 PM

thanks joshr08,im over the pond in england,but there are a couple of auto spares shops in my town

joshr08 · April 05, 2009, 03:56:19 PM

http://www.stud-remover.com/ im not sure but i found this in a web search. may find this over on your side of the pond too

fred · April 05, 2009, 05:57:56 PM

If you can't extract the stud yourself, just call around until you find a shop that will remove the stud while the engine is still in the bike, then have it towed there. You could also rent a truck or find some friend who has a truck to help you move it... Don't forget that larger vans will also transport the GS without problem, assuming you take enough seats out... If no one will do it with the engine installed, you'll have to take it out and lug it to a shop that will fix it for you, which would be a hassle, but not the end of the world...

gs500Ant · April 06, 2009, 03:47:42 AM

A BIG THANKS TO YOU ALL GUYS

i managed to find and buy a stud extractor this morning,all went to plan,now the studs out

just waiting on parts,as i decided to replace the new gaskets

even though they havent been used whilst engine running,thought better safe than sorry

once again,thankyou guys

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snapped stud whilst torquing head and barrels