Any pictures of modded GS dash plates?

[cstilt]

Im waiting on the KOSO RX-2 GP style gauge to arrive  . Will look awesome on the GS i think. But cost me an arm and a leg 

http://www.superbiketoystore.com/sport/products/electrical/koso-gp-style-speedometer-rx2/?added=1

Wow...I like that a lot. I kinda wish I'd found that one before I went with my Acewell.

[REAP]

Yeah for sure, give me about 1 week to get it all set up. Im in the middle of exams.

[wladziu]

No, I've just been busy, DoD.  (I've only had time to bug the crap out of the "oil guy", apparently... )



That's almost exactly what I want.  Minus the volt gauge, and computer.  I'd like the turn signals where you've got them, but the neutral and high beam where you have the voltmeter (vertically).  And the same large oil light, but lower - where you have the computer. 
The gear indicator like that would be pretty handy.  I'd love to have something like that, but I'll probably never have the time to wire it. 

Thanks for the image, DoD. 
Now I just need to figure out how to get the plastic bucket piece to bolt to the underside, and find some new LED's. 


Of course, I don't really wanna write L, R, Oil, etc, with a black Sharpie...   
Question for you machinists:  how much for engraving letters?  Any way to have writing that would be reasonably neat, but wouldn't break my (small) budget?

[DoD#i]

I'm not a machinist, but....I play with machine tools sometimes.

If you are having a CNC equipped shop do the cutting, it should be trivial to add engraving.

On the other hand, you can get rub on letters from a graphic/art supply store and then clearcoat over them for a professional look. I used to do this on one-off custom lab equipment - it looks good if you are careful to make them line up. On the third hand, you know what they are, and even if the bike was sold at some point, if you are using the "standard MC indicator light colors" as we are here, it's not too hard to figure out.

If you are using the stock gauge buckets, you can either drill and tap holes into a thick plate, or weld or glue nuts to the back similar to the stock plate. Of course, those will leave your relocated lights/wiring hanging in the breeze, so some sort of bucket replacement (dig out the fiberglass and go for it) might be better. If you used a thick plate you could screw that to the edge of the plate for mounting (you'd have to have the machine shop thin the area around the gauges to the gauge rubber would fit - but that could be a cool look.)

Modified for what you either don't want or won't get around to...