News:

Registration Issues: email manjul.bose at gmail for support - seems there is a issue that we're still trying to fix

Main Menu

Chain

Started by RaGe, April 28, 2009, 09:31:25 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

RaGe

Hello everyone! This will be my first post of many I am sure. Anyways, I found this site while looking for information on my 2005 GS500f and since I never did find a good answer here I am. Please keep in mind I am not very mechanically inclined, so please be gentle. I live in Pittsburgh, Pa and at the start of winter I had some bad times come my way and to make a long story short my bike sat out in the weather all winter uncovered and uncared for. I have charged the battery and it got it running, but many of the nuts and bolts are rusted up. My main concern is the chain however, as it does not look very safe. I would like to replace it with a decent aftermarket chain and that would be my question. What kind of chain would you guys recommend? The only thing that I do know about my chain is it is a #520 chain, whatever that means. I have been doing a little window shopping online and when you go to place the order they want to know how many links are needed. I have no idea what that number is or where to get it as Google has let me down. Also I noticed people talking about the master links in chains. From what I read one is better then the other, but once again I am just going by a few posts I have read through. Figured this would be the right place to ask and hopefully get a few answers. Just to summarize what I am looking for... What size chain do i need? How many links are needed (all stock sprockets and such)? What would be a good brand? I would like something durable and easy to maintain. I'm not sure what the difference between them, but I think one of those colored chains would look really nice, but I do not want to sacrifice durability or take on a heavy maintenance load. Also, what would anyone suggest as a chain lube? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thank you

jeremy_nash

I use an oring chain from my local dealership.  comes as 120 link, I used a grinder to cut it down to 110 link.  was around $60

if your rear wheel turns smoothly on the center stand, try lubing it up, you'll be surprised at the difference it makes.  for cleaning, I use wd40, work it in with tooth brush, wipe all the excess of, then I use chain wax from lowes, protects good, and doesn't sling off much
gsxr shock
katana FE
99 katana front rim swap
vapor gauge cluster
14 tooth sprocket
95 on an 89 frame
lunchbox
V&H ssr2 muffler
jetted carbs
150-70-17 pilot road rear
120-70-17 sportmax front
sv650 rear wheel
sv650 tail swap
gsxr pegs
GP shift

VSG

I bought a DID #520, 110 link chain.  (http://www.chaparral-racing.com/Chaparral/product_family.asp?family_id=14054&mscssid=E1498FF2C5C248F6817BB72C1FF62CC5&Gift=False&GiftID=)  I've only had it on for a few days, but it's much better than my old chain was.

#520 has to do with the chain width.  110, is (obviously) the number of links.



There are rivet style and clip style master links.  There's a big debate on which is better, so I'd say it's up to personal preference.  For the rivet style master links, you need a chain rivet/break tool.  That's what I have, and I feel confident that the link is securely on the chain.

Here's a link with some more info on chains:  http://www.dansmc.com/rearchain.htm

RaGe

Awesome, thanks for the info guys. Will try that lube from Lowes along the the WD40 for cleaning. I purchased that DID chain about 30seconds ago. It cost 105.60 with free ground shipping. I do appreciate it so thanks again. Happy Riding!

ohgood

Quote from: VSG on April 29, 2009, 08:10:05 AM
I bought a DID #520, 110 link chain.  (http://www.chaparral-racing.com/Chaparral/product_family.asp?family_id=14054&mscssid=E1498FF2C5C248F6817BB72C1FF62CC5&Gift=False&GiftID=)  I've only had it on for a few days, but it's much better than my old chain was.

#520 has to do with the chain width  PITCH.  110, is (obviously) the number of links.



There are rivet style and clip style master links.  There's a big debate on which is better, so I'd say it's up to personal preference.  For the rivet style master links, you need a chain rivet/break tool.  That's what I have, and I feel confident that the link is securely on the chain.

Here's a link with some more info on chains:  http://www.dansmc.com/rearchain.htm

520 is the pitch (i fixed yours for you) meaning, the length from link center to link center. there are 525, 620, etc

520 110 link chains are stock numbers.

you definitely want an o-ring chain at the very least. non o-ring chains will wear out in ... no time. really.

:)


tt_four: "and believe me, BMW motorcycles are 50% metal, rubber and plastic, and 50% useless

VSG

Thanks for the clarification.

Do the numbers 5-2-0 mean anything?  Or is it just some arbitrary numbering system set up by whoever invented chains?

gsJack

The 5 means 5/8" pitch, the distance between pins, and the 2 means 2/8" wide.
407,400 miles in 30 years for 13,580 miles/year average.  Started riding 7/21/84 and hung up helmet 8/31/14.

SMF spam blocked by CleanTalk