Engine case won't drain oil and blows starter drives

[ben2go]

Well I am back after a year absence.I gave up on my bike after dgyver and I spent a lot of work and time on my bike.It just wouldn't start.The starter gear wouldn't engage the crankshaft and eventually blew apart the starter clutch.I drained the oil in preparation to repair the starter drive.When I removed the side cover another 1.5 quarts came out of it.This equaled to nearly 5 quarts of oil in the engine.(Yes,I know how to check my oil.I did a write up on it.)My starter drive wouldn't engage because the oil was causing the paws to slide and not grab.Oil is pumped through the crankshaft,out onto the starter drive and rotor where it is supposed to drain back into the engine case from the side cover.Problem is,my engine cover isn't draining back into the oil sump.From what I can tell the case isn't machined for a return.I have thourghly cleaned the inside and can't find the drain for the left side engine cover.I wonder if this is why I got an older bike with extreemly low miles on it?Anyone else ran into this issue?I think it's just my pile that's defective.I got to much money and work in my bike and engine to let it set.Once I get it fixed right,I will probably put the upgraded stock front end back on and use my Katana front end on one of my other GS'es.

[tt_four]

I love when people refer to something as a "pile".

Aside from that, I will be absolutely no help with your problem though, sorry.

[bill14224]

Photograph the inside of the engine cover and send it to Suzuki with a note describing the problem.  If it's a manufacturing defect (which it sure sounds like) they're likely to send you a new cover free.

[ben2go]

Photograph the inside of the engine cover and send it to Suzuki with a note describing the problem.  If it's a manufacturing defect (which it sure sounds like) they're likely to send you a new cover free.

The cover isn't the problem.The drain that should be machined in the main engine case/block doesn't appear to be there.The cover is shaped in a way  that the oil runs toward the engine case and the a drain in the case allows the oil to flow back out of the cover and down the drain into the sump for filtering and recirculation.

[dgyver]

Which bike is this? Post a pic or email me one. I will look tomorrow at a case and see if I can figure out what the problem may be. If the casting is missing a hole, maybe just need to drill one.

btw.. Where the heck have you been?!

[ben2go]

Which bike is this? Post a pic or email me one. I will look tomorrow at a case and see if I can figure out what the problem may be. If the casting is missing a hole, maybe just need to drill one.

btw.. Where the heck have you been?!

HEY D!!!!I been dealing with some serious health issues.I'll explain that when we talk again.

On to the issue.This is my black bike Nite Rider the 1989.The one Dgyver and I have worked on.

KERRY!I stole a pic for reference.I'll give it back later.

Below is a pic of a bike Kerry worked on for OPTheory.This is not a pic of my engine.
I know these oil levels to be close from using a cracked cover to see down inside the engine.
Here's the issue.


The oil keeps getting trapped in the left engine cover and will not drain back into the sump.Maybe there is a check valve that is stuck.I can't find anything in my Clymers manual on it.

[The Buddha]

Hey ben ... nice to see you back ...

Anyway correct oil level is even lower, there is usually very very little that case has. If you took off the cover, you get a 1/2 cup then it will drip maybe 1 drop an hour.
Anyway behind the starter gear the case is a trellis, no problem draining, it has holes large enough to drop a quarter in ...
I'll get a pic tommorow ...
Cool.
Buddha.

[ben2go]

Thanks.I don't remember seeing any large holes, but it was November the last time I opened the building out back, where my bike is stored.

[dgyver]

Here is a pic of the left of the case. Plenty of holes for oil to drain.

[ben2go]

Thanks Dgyver!I'm gonna tear into it again in the next week or two and see what the deal is.I gotta replace the transaxle in my riding mower this week.While I was looking for a replacement transaxle,I found out that there was a problem with the original style transaxle,and the manufacture recalled all the mowers.I never got the recall notice for mine and the recall notice ran out in 2006.So that stuck me paying $330 shipped for the new upgraded axle and the rework kit for my mower.

[ben2go]

I keep blowing starter clutches.Since the carb and exhaust upgrade I've blown two them.I haven't checked it out yet,but I am going to try over T day.I was dealing with a heart condition when I originally posted this.Before I could get back on my feet I was hit by pneumonia.Fourth time I had it in the past year and a half.I hope to pull the side cover and check things out since I am almost 100%.The rain should subside tomorrow.  I should have more info by the weekend.(fingers crossed)



I did manage to get the transaxle changed in my mower.It took me two weeks working any where from 30 minutes to a couple hours when I felt like it.It was a retro fit that was developed for a bunch of different models,so it wasn't a direct bolt in.Now the ride is silky smooth and no more deafening axle whine.

[ben2go]

Gotta chance to check out the engine.The starter clutch locked the engine up when it seized.Appears that I have a bad oil pump.I got the engine to free up but it will only spin 180* before it won't turn any more.Feels like a broken rod or dropped valve.    I'll have to wait for wurmer dryer weather to tear down the top end.   

[The Buddha]

Ben the starter clutch seized and locked up the motor ? Or bad oil pump had the motor lock up and your starter clutch also is bad. I dunno, you should figure out what went wrong first, caused what to fail, and what that did after ... else you'd go crazy fixing it.

Cool.
Buddha.

[ben2go]

The oil pump failure is the cause of the stater clutch lock up and the other damage.I just gotta get it tore down and inspect everything for damage.All I have done was pulled the side covers,check the started clutch, and tried to turn the engine over by hand with the plugs removed.When the engine stopped turning, it was a solid stop, not a mushy stop like fuel in cylinders with a little air.You know,when carbs fill the cylinders because of bad needle and seat.

[bobthebiker]

I'd just replace the engine if the oil pump failed.   way too many things get screwed up from lack of lubrication.

[ben2go]

I'd just replace the engine if the oil pump failed.   way too many things get screwed up from lack of lubrication.

I have two other stock engines.The engine in my bike isn't completely stock.The oil didn't have a metalic look or shavings in it.