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so something in my driveline now *clunks*

Started by redhenracing2, August 03, 2009, 02:39:40 PM

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redhenracing2

Called around and priced out sprockets and chain. 14t front - $17(plus tax, but free shipping), 39t rear - $32(same deal). These are both from JT Sprockets, which was recommended to me by the dealer. As far as the chain:  EK Quadra x-ring 520 - $80. I have never bought a chain (or sprockets for that matter) before and really don't know much about them and the differences between them. Thoughts? Recommendations?
Quote from: cozy on April 25, 2005, 11:03:14 AM
Try dropping down to 4 Oreos and set your pilot screw 3 turns out.

Bridger

After seeing the pics your mysterious clunk isn't so mysterious.....
'09 GS-F mini reflectors, 14 tooth sprocket, drag bars

johnny ro

my 0.02

that rear is even worse than front, the teeth look even more like hooks.

I havent bought sprocket and chain for couple years but would buy x ring again and the prices you quote don't seem high.

The wear on sprockets is what is reduced when you externally lube the chain rollers. The chain stretch is from wear inside the chain, if its not o-ring or xring then its from not lubing it, if is oring or xring its because rings wore outor dried up then wore out and factory lube went away. Rust will wrceck the orings, another reason to lube a chain. when sprocket or chain wear they feed each others failure. so always replace the whole set and lube as recommmended.

If you keep riding on old stuff, chain could break, or fall off sideways and you lock wheel and or engine up, maybe go down. Maybe take out case part, too.

ohgood

Quote from: redhenracing2 on August 05, 2009, 02:59:28 PM
Called around and priced out sprockets and chain. 14t front - $17(plus tax, but free shipping), 39t rear - $32(same deal). These are both from JT Sprockets, which was recommended to me by the dealer. As far as the chain:  EK Quadra x-ring 520 - $80. I have never bought a chain (or sprockets for that matter) before and really don't know much about them and the differences between them. Thoughts? Recommendations?

you do know that 14t is going to make spirited starts into oh-my-god-i-hope-there-weren't-any-cops-around-to-see-that! moments, right ? 14t = wheelie machine. i had a 14t (my neighbors) on for one day. it was just too easy to bring the front up for my commuting tastes. ;)

ok, disclaimer is done. sure, those prices aren't terrible. i don't recall what length the 14t needs to be proper. 15t = 110 links just fine, just as the 16t (stock) and 110 links is fine. if you don't want to rivit the chain yourself, let someone at hte dealer do it. clip type master lnks get a bad wrap. i like em myself. that's a whole nother debate ;)

while you have the rear wheel off and all, take a look at your brake disc. it looks kinda rough in one of those shots. might be getting thin or be burned. dunno.

when you get it all back together, lube it weekly or at least act like it's weekly. my (neglect) first chain lasted >20,000 miles wihtout a problem. it was an o-ring chain, and i lubed it every other ride or so. just  a splash of 10w40 and a wipe off. no big deal. then i tried a non o-ring chain. 3,000 miles and it was dead. don't make that cheap mistake ;)

good luck !


tt_four: "and believe me, BMW motorcycles are 50% metal, rubber and plastic, and 50% useless

redhenracing2

Yeah I know about the whole 14t=wheelies, but I literally NEVER touch interstate when riding anywhere that I need to go normally, so losing a bit of top-end in return for making it more fun around town is something I can live with. Plus that will keep me in the higher rpm range more, which will increase my gas mileage because my other cylinder will be firing a larger percentage of the time. As it is now, I have to wait for it to kick in when going through second and third gear, so making it shorter will reduce that hesitation and make it much more enjoyable. Plus a wheelie every now and then can be fun, I kinda miss doing that on my old F3. Squidly, I know. Anywho . . .

Should I be worried about takin a link out or will a 110 chain work? And should I be able to replace all of this with basic tools, in my driveway, with no experience whatsoever?
Quote from: cozy on April 25, 2005, 11:03:14 AM
Try dropping down to 4 Oreos and set your pilot screw 3 turns out.

redhenracing2

14t, 39t, and 520 EK Quadra X-Ring chain now en route. Should be here tuesday or so. Does anyone know if a link needs to be removed for the 14t, or should 110 link chain still work? And ease of installation for all this, tips, advice?
Quote from: cozy on April 25, 2005, 11:03:14 AM
Try dropping down to 4 Oreos and set your pilot screw 3 turns out.

sledge

#26
Quote from: redhenracing2 on August 05, 2009, 01:37:00 PM
Alright, I did some digging and got some pics. Not exactly sure what I'm supposed to be looking for so I ask you kind brethren: anything look out of order here?







And note the slack in the chain, with it already adjusted out as far as it can go. Slight pressure downward will make it easily touch the centerstand, and pushing up will easily make it touch the swingarm. I know this is too much slack, but could it be causing my trouble here?





Your chain is way too loose.
It needs lube, see the red dust? that is down to microscopic particles of metal wearing off the sprocket and rusting due to contact with the moisture in the atmosphere.
Clean and check the splines on the OP shaft, lubricate with heavy grease
The front and back sprockets are out of alignment, see the shiny section under each trough on the front sprocket?

Replace the lot and start again, make sure the sprockets are aligned, lube the splines and keep the chain correctly tensioned and lubed........oh and check the cushdrive rubbers in the wheel. hub.

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