There IS spark, but there's NOT spark??!?!?!?!??!?! HELP ASAP

[krypto35]

I was supposed to sell my bike TODAY.  Been riding it for weeks, all day yesterday.  Try to start it this morning - nothing.  WTF!

Right cylinder is not sparking.... but it is sparking..... let me explain......

When I ground the plug to the engine and crank, I see NO SPARK through the gap.  When I hold the plug slightly off the engine and crank, spark goes between the gap and bridges to the engine as well.  WTF is going on!

Does this mean I have a very WEAK spark signal?

I used to have some electrical problems, cause by a filthy 4-way connector on the Green/white, Green/yellow, Brown, and Black (I think) wires, which I understood were the wires for the crank trigger - so I cut the connector out and soldered those 4 wires direct, a while ago.

Either way, I rode the bike til about 5pm yesterday!  And now this.  And I NEED the money!  WTF is going on!?!?!?

[intergalactic]

I suspect a bad plug. it is shorted. See if it follows sides. Or better yet, just change the plug.

[The Buddha]

Bad auxillary ground.
Cool.
Buddha.

[intergalactic]

Bad auxillary ground.
Cool.
Buddha.

For just one side with a bad spark? I don't understand...

[Dr.Sparkie]

sounds totally like a bad plug... was it wet, or black with carbon? it may also be cracked, and is the gap up to spec?

furthermore, it will run on one cylinder i take it? its only this plug? if so, swap them and see if it runs on the other cylinder, then you know for sure.

[krypto35]

replaced both plugs just now, others were black and wet.  Got the bike fired up, took it around the block, but was cutting in and out.  I'm suspecting a broken wire of a bad connection, cuz as I sat on the bike, one cylinder cut out for a couple seconds, I wiggled the seat, and got full fire.  wires are bundled up behind battery, so I wrapped the sh*T out of them with black tape and secured them to the frame..... but sittin in the driveway and revving, something seemed intermittent every few revs.....

so my question.... what color wires would directly cut out a coil?

[krypto35]

also, below 3k, there is hesitation and stumbling and small throttle openings, but if u twist it - goes right to redline no prob.  Maybe also part of the intermittent problem, like low voltage not bridging the gap?  Or just a rich cylinder/high float?

[The Buddha]

Losing 1 cyl = aux ground.
The thing is ... its different from bike to bike ... some lose left, others right ...
Wiring bundle under seat being wiggled = poor contact at aux ground.
Cool.
Buddha.

[lopee]

Also could be to much interference on your wires. I thought my carbs were screwy cause it would run rich on the right side. after about 100 plugs, i checked the wires for interference and had a weak spark on the right, hence no spark to burn fuel=rich condition. there was enough to keep her running, just not to spec. I switched with a single accell wire from autozone for $10, cut to match old wires, snug to the coils and spark cap. Good to go now and carbs are acting right now.

[simoniz]

99% sure it's bad plugs. New ones are $1.99 each, go get them and check the cheap stuff first.

[krypto35]

changed the plugs earlier.... still having some problems, but at least it runs.  Where is the ground connection?  Is there a grounding strap like on most auto engines?

[jeremy_nash]

for ground, follow the ground strap from battery, one quick-disconnect that goes to frame, and the heavier wire goes to engine case.  also check the quick disconnect for corrosion

[The Buddha]

for ground, follow the ground strap from battery, one quick-disconnect that goes to frame, and the heavier wire goes to engine case.  also check the quick disconnect for corrosion

Correct, but it goes to wiring harness not frame. I twist the tounge and shove it back in.

<waaaaaaaaaay off topic rant follows ... >

But then ofcourse I twist everything ... talking of twisting ... I saw a porno last night ... fine who am I kidding, its 2 mins ago @ work ... and why the hell is the chick not getting her titties twisted ... like these Idiots are avoiding it like plague ... dude ... she's put in 3.5 tonnes of silicone per tit just for you and me too but ... so you need to twist them ... atleast till they start bleeding ... then back off 1 little bit and twist for 4-6 hours. Then if you have an Erection lasting more than 4 hours ... call your doctor.
Cool.
Buddha.

[krypto35]

w......t........f..........   

[homeyjosey]

w......t........f..........   

Why The Face (ur probably like  if u havent seen the commercial)

[The Buddha]

w......t........f..........   

Why The Face (ur probably like  if u havent seen the commercial)

I think he's talking about the twisting rant ... sorry guys ... I can tard it ... as soon as your problem gets sorted out krypto ...
I'll split form here and tard it.
Cool.
Buddha.

[krypto35]

what in the world!  Got the thing running.... still WAY too rich, was barely getting it to rev past 2k without choke, and with choke it would die at any throttle input.....

Rode around the block, revs OK from idle to 6k.... anything above 6k and it dies!  Switched to PRIME while riding, around other side of block, same deal.  Bike won't even REV past 6k now... as soon as it reaches 6,000 it dies and falls below idle then comes back up to idle.  What's causing this?!  I thought richness.....

set floats to about 16mm from mating surface, since they were already around the 15mm max..... and the fuel level indicates as high as the carb boot when using the rubber tube method.  WHAT in the world is going on now? how could the fuel level even BE that high with the bike standing up centered and the petcock back to ON position.

I NEED to sell this bike, can't keep buyer waiting, today is my last chance to work on it before next week and he wants it Saturday.  PLEASE give me some emergency special attentioN!

[krypto35]

F*ck no idea

[The Buddha]

15mm from mating face ... WTF ... it has to be at the mating face ... forget talking in terms of numbers ... it is at the mating face ... who gave you the number ... screw that.
Cool.
Buddha.

what in the world!  Got the thing running.... still WAY too rich, was barely getting it to rev past 2k without choke, and with choke it would die at any throttle input.....

Rode around the block, revs OK from idle to 6k.... anything above 6k and it dies!  Switched to PRIME while riding, around other side of block, same deal.  Bike won't even REV past 6k now... as soon as it reaches 6,000 it dies and falls below idle then comes back up to idle.  What's causing this?!  I thought richness.....

set floats to about 16mm from mating surface, since they were already around the 15mm max..... and the fuel level indicates as high as the carb boot when using the rubber tube method.  WHAT in the world is going on now? how could the fuel level even BE that high with the bike standing up centered and the petcock back to ON position.

I NEED to sell this bike, can't keep buyer waiting, today is my last chance to work on it before next week and he wants it Saturday.  PLEASE give me some emergency special attentioN!