Turning indicator lights to LED

[Toogoofy317]

I've read several post on this but my particular question hasn't been answered.

If I have LEDs in the turn signals and a diode hooked up to the turn signal indicator will a LED bulb work in there?  I have two lights out now lights aren't even 6 months old sheesh!

Mary

[alexmac]

I'm not sure exactly what you mean, but I needed two resistors to make my LEDs work. They go in between the back/front indicator plugs (under the fairing on either side of the seat). At least that's how it was on my '04 GS-E. Is that helpful?

[cboling]

Hey Mary,

I believe a diode is used to prevent electrical flow in a specific direction. You will need to buy some small resistors and connect them to the long leg of the LED light that you are replacing. (That is the positive side.) I just built a small bar of LED's and had to use different values of resistors. You can use the following site to determine which value of resistor. When you buy the LED's they have a value (forward voltage), and the current (milliamps) Then enter the voltage of the bike. (12 volts.)

http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz

It will tell you the volor bands that you need to use.


CB

[Paulcet]

The diodes you have in there won't hurt anything (and I think you would need them, actually).  cboling's note about the resistor is true if you are making your own LED lights.  But if you buy LED replacements, they should have resistor(s) built in.

Side note, if anyone is interested:  I wanted to make my own LED replacements for my SV650 gauges.  The indicators have a smoked plastic cover over them to make it look like there are no lights there, or at least make them less obtrusive.  So the incandescent bulbs are not very bright.  I thought I could put two LEDs in and get more usable light.  I ended up pushing the maximum current through two LEDs to just match the incandescent single bulbs!   I would need a minimum of 3, and possibly 4 LEDs to get the brightness I want, and that won't fit.

[bassmechanicsz]

For what you are doing you shouldn't need to change anything but just make sure you get the correct bulbs according to the wiki.  The wiki says that they are just plug and play and nothing else is required and i would think that they would work seperately from all of the diodes and resistors that are required for the actual blinkers to work.

[Toogoofy317]

Yeah, I already have the load balancers and everything for my four turn signals and the diode is under the indicator lamp to make it work. I just wasn't sure if I had to remove that diode for a led replacement to work.

Do you think I could get the replacement lights from Radio Shack?

Mary

[bassmechanicsz]

You could try a radio shack but i know most radio shacks by me have a very limited selection of leds.  www.superbrightleds.com has the lights and you can get all 4 shipped for about $20.

[Toogoofy317]

Cool, as long as it is a plug and play!

Mary

[Asym]

Problem with the F models is they used a smaller bulb and the LED replacement #74 bulbs are not available as a non-polarized LED. This means the #74 LED only works with the power running 1 way. Someone makes a kit that has diodes so that LED will work, I can 't find the link right now though. That harness adds more cable and costs more than buying the larger #168 that fits the E models and trying to make it fit. The 168 is available as a non-polarized LED and can be made to fit by shaving down the plastic.

Wait found the diode kit http://www.customdynamics.com/loadequalizer.htm#Genesis_Metric_Cruiser_Diode_Kit
and here's their diagram for how it works http://www.customdynamics.com/load_equalizer_diodes.htm

I'm not a big fan of splicing the wiring harness, so I thought forcing the larger bulb required less work and I could try the splicing as a last resort.

[Toogoofy317]

I already have a diode kit by Kurykurin. Soo that will fit thenz\? I'm all confused

Mary

[Paulcet]

If I remember correctly, the #74 bulb is reversible.  In other words, if it doesn't work, just flip it around.  Your Kurykurin diode will work.