Clutch Troubles

elementguy053 · August 30, 2009, 06:32:09 PM

I'm currently in the process of restoring a '95 gs500.
It has ~20k miles, and runs moderately well except for a couple of problems. It is abnormally difficult to pull the clutch in to the point where it disengages. I took the sprocket cover off and verified that the handle, cable and lifting mechanism that pushes the metal pin move easily. I don't know what the internal portion of the clutch looks like yet, but before I go blindly tearing things apart, I'd like to know if any of you had any problems such as this.
Is there anything else I should check first?

-the cabe is older, but still easily moves in it's jacket and can disengage the clutch if adjusted all the way out
-the bike still cycles easily through the gears
-oil is fresh, of proper weight, and at the right level.

Thanks

ohgood · August 30, 2009, 06:53:33 PM

where are you adjusting the clutch ?

the proper method is:

a) at the pushrod
then
b) at the cable housing (engine case)
then
c) at the clutch handle adjuster

there was another post somewhere that gave the right number of turns... seems like IN till resistance (at the push rod adjuster), then OUT 1/2 turn.

the rest should be easy enough to finger out as far as both ends of the cable sleeve go. try the push rod adjuster first, i'll bet it's out of adjustment.

cboling · August 30, 2009, 07:00:31 PM

I just went through this as well. There is some specific information floating around but what Ohgood said is right.

Loosen the cable at the handle (all the way in on the adjustment nut.
Open the small side cover (circular) on the left side.
Loosen the nut around the adjustment screw.
Tighten the screw til it just touches (you'll just feel it touch)
I backed mine out about 1/2 turn I think and it feels great.
Tighten the nut back down.
Replace cover and adjust lever.

You can loosen the cable at the cover end as well but I loosened mine waaay too much and ended up having to remove the cover and put the cable back into the internal catch piece.

Good luck.

Affschnozel · August 31, 2009, 05:07:59 AM

Check that mechanism isn't worn like it was in my case ,the grit can mask it :

That was the fix:

BeerGarage · August 31, 2009, 07:53:54 AM

Good pictures, Herr Schnozel.

the mole · September 01, 2009, 04:44:24 AM

Worn cables can move easily when theres no load on them, but under tension they get very stiff. If everything else checks out it might be worth changing the cable.

elementguy053 · September 03, 2009, 09:30:04 AM

Hello all,
Last night I decided to try to make some headway on the clutch issue. I started by removing the sprocket cover/clutch lifter to check for wear and tear on that side (per picture).
The inside looked to be in good condition. I wiped the clutch rod clean and reinstalled the cover. I then slacked the cable and opened the lifter adjustment cover. When i removed the cover, i was surprised/disappointed to find a pair of loose ball bearings clinging to the cover. I assume that these are not for decoration. Calipers said that these are 3.175mm (0.125in).
My intuition says this is the problem. Does this mean that the clutch lifter may not be following some track and isn't pushing on the clutch at all? This would explain why so much tension is required to even slightly disengage the clutch.

fyi, the cable is in moderately good condition, i just assumed that it was stretched.

any input is appreciated
thanks

elementguy053 · October 29, 2009, 06:03:12 PM

Okay, tonight i dug in and reset all the bearings into the race and put the clutch lifter back together. It seems to be functioning perfectly on its own. I put it back onto the bike, and it moves smoothly enough, but now a new problem has arisen. While it is probably necessary to change out the clutch cable, I think there is something else wrong further down the line. despite having cable adjustments out as far as they go, the clutch is still difficult to pull in and still won't fully disengage the transmission. If i put the bike into gear and pull the clutch all the way in i can barely turn the wheel against the strong resistance. What might this be indicative of?

i'm gonna look for some detailed drawings of the clutch assembly to try to figure it out, but has anyone else had a problem like this?!

manoj · October 29, 2009, 07:46:43 PM

I faced the exact same problem with clutch you described yesterday, the clutch would not disengage but after a while it started working properly again .I haven't had the time to look at the problem yet.l
Manoj

elementguy053 · October 30, 2009, 10:10:29 AM

I searched "clutch disengage" through the forum and found that this is a persistent problem with many users. There is still no definitive solution. If you feel like helping the investigation, searching the above would be a good start for getting familiar with symptoms.

Affschnozel · October 31, 2009, 06:41:53 AM

I had similar problem with my clutch , I checked plates for wear and they were fine , fixed the worn actuating arm (above)

still the clutch didn't disengage like before ,then I just replaced the number 25 with longer one and that solved it

elementguy053 · May 28, 2010, 01:48:09 PM

Months later:
So the bike is still a stress point for my life. A few other problems have come up and I still haven't solved this one. I'm waiting for a set of JIS screwdrivers to come in so that I can take off the distributor stator and crack open the clutch/transmission case.

As far as this problem goes, there is still no solution. I don't think that ^this will work because the adjustment bolt CAN be screwed in enough to touch the rod that goes to the other side (per clutch cable adjustment).

Nothing really productive to put here, so in summary, BUMP!

Any advice is appreciated.

Affschnozel · May 29, 2010, 02:36:47 AM

Check the whole clutch housing , pull it out ,follow the diagram here and look for damage.

Have you replaced the cable BTW ?

elementguy053 · May 24, 2011, 09:22:04 PM

from http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=52536.msg638719#msg638719

So I've still got a dead bike. this is my life project.

Anyway I have a 1995 GS500e, with the cracked bearing cap mentioned above. I am going to try to defy nature and make progress on the project. I am looking to buy a new cylinder head, and have found a possible match. It is from a 1989.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1989-SUZUKI-GS500-GS-500-EK-CYLINDER-HEAD-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5aded7d64bQQitemZ390285743691QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Should I take a risk for $125? will it fit?

Thanks for your sage advice.
-max

ben2go · May 24, 2011, 09:40:21 PM

Quote from: elementguy053 on May 24, 2011, 09:22:04 PM
from http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=52536.msg638719#msg638719

So I've still got a dead bike. this is my life project.

Anyway I have a 1995 GS500e, with the cracked bearing cap mentioned above. I am going to try to defy nature and make progress on the project. I am looking to buy a new cylinder head, and have found a possible match. It is from a 1989.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1989-SUZUKI-GS500-GS-500-EK-CYLINDER-HEAD-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5aded7d64bQQitemZ390285743691QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Should I take a risk for $125? will it fit?

Thanks for your sage advice.
-max

Do not buy that head.He states that the bearing journal is scored.If you look at his pics,it clearly shows the top cam or gear is bent.This is a sign of bad things.I would not trust that head except as a door stop.

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Clutch Troubles