News:

New Wiki available at http://wiki.gstwins.com -Check it out or contribute today!

Main Menu

Testing the Electrical Rectifier / Regulator

Started by cboling, October 07, 2009, 07:13:48 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

cboling

Briefly reading the Clymer section on the Rectifier, it says that a regular Ohm Meter should not be used because it may give a false reading. I think I am having a problem with my rectifier as it relates to my LED lights that I have replaced. I used resistors in line with the lights so there shouldn't be a problem with the light itself but I am wondering if I still need a "resistance" added against the rectifier or if the resistance values of the rectifier are failing.

Has anyone done simple electrical testing of the rectifier using a good multi-meter? I don't want to simply throw a used one on there simply for testing.

~*STEPH*~

My rectifier went bad over the summer and you are correct in that the manual says not to use a normal Ohm meter.  It does, however, say to take it to your nearest Suzuki dealer and they have a "special meter" to test it.  Well my shop didn't, and told me it was way cheaper to pick up a new rectifier.  I believe I got one from Dgyver on here for $15
Proud owner of my first bike, 1990 GS500E!!!

cboling

That's sort of what I was thinking. I may try it anyway.

cHa0s

#3
the incorrect values are caused by the internal measuring voltage of the multimeter.
imho it's easier to check the whole charging system. what's the problem with the led- lights?
braking cause less speed

cboling

When I first installed them, everything worked very well and I didn't see any problems. After riding for a little while, the left side is intermittently slow and the electronic flasher doesn't seem to be getting a full voltage and never really clicks. If I rev the engine, I can see the lights operate better but still without a full flash cycle. I have also noticed that my led indicator lights (fully custom) are all very dimly lit (which did not happen until recently.) My initial thought is that some water has gotten in the unit or maybe just due to age and is shorting across that side causing a load failure?

cHa0s

shorting by water is possible, but improbable. but water can cause corroded junctions in the connectors. check the connectors first, then check the charging system. warm-up the engine, turn it up to 5000 rpm. if the (batteriy) voltage is less than 14V, the regulator or the alternator is dmaged.
braking cause less speed

cboling


jeremy_nash

I repeatedly have the same problem with my bike.  try a new flasher, I go through one each month.  and have the same issues you described.  if the flasher isn't the problem, just take it back in, and get your money back
gsxr shock
katana FE
99 katana front rim swap
vapor gauge cluster
14 tooth sprocket
95 on an 89 frame
lunchbox
V&H ssr2 muffler
jetted carbs
150-70-17 pilot road rear
120-70-17 sportmax front
sv650 rear wheel
sv650 tail swap
gsxr pegs
GP shift

sledge

If the reg/rect was duff the first thing you would notice is difficulty starting and/or a dim/flickering headlamp.

jeremy_nash

best way to test your charging system would me to use a voltmeter on the battery with the bike running
gsxr shock
katana FE
99 katana front rim swap
vapor gauge cluster
14 tooth sprocket
95 on an 89 frame
lunchbox
V&H ssr2 muffler
jetted carbs
150-70-17 pilot road rear
120-70-17 sportmax front
sv650 rear wheel
sv650 tail swap
gsxr pegs
GP shift

cboling

That was actually the first thing I did. Got a replacement flasher. Same problem. I did notice last night that the headlight does dim slightly when off the throttle and I am having a bit more difficulty getting it started. (Fuel not electric i think.) Either way, I am going to test the battery charging first but keep the suggestions coming.

SMF spam blocked by CleanTalk