Modded Exhaust

[gregvhen]

If I use a air cut off tool to cut the end of my exhaust (stock) pipe off, Im talking at the biggest point not just the skinny outlet port, would I be able to slide out the packing and the inside metal tube?

I want to get a bigger tube for the inside to open it up a bit and repack it myself and weld a new cap onto the end with a bigger outlet.

I ask simply because I dont mind labor, and I dont 300 bucks to drop on an exhaust.

Does anyone think this would have any noticable performace increase?

[The Buddha]

Not really.
The exhaust canister is a series of plates and tubes that separate the exhaust gasses into chambers.
The exhaust enters the can, that 5-6 inches is chamber 1 lets say. The next 5-6 inches is chamber 2 and the last 5-6 inches is chamber 3.
The flow is form chamber 1 to chamber 3 via a tiny dime sized tube. Then from chamber 3 it flows into chamber 2 via 2 tiny dime sized tubes. Then it flows from chamber 2 to the outside via 1 tiny dime sized tube.
You really ahve to replace all 3 of these with a quarter - silver dollar sized perforated metal tube and between it and the outer wall you have to pack it with a sound insulation of some kind.

I am working on some stuff. I'll be under that 300 you are talking about, but likely that I will only have very few.
Its gonna be decent stuff, and I am shooting for 150 or so for ready to fit. Cut and fit essentially.

Cool.
Buddha.

[The Buddha]

Oh and modern sport bikes in addition to that chambered design have a scroll of ridiculous crap ... it looks like corrugated cardboard rolled into a 3-4 inch dia 6-8 inch long cigar, but its some bastard child of steel, platinum, nickel copper and it freaking gets hot and apparently changes all the hydrocarbons in your pipe into pure water ... or other garbage.

I hacked open my sv can and found this abomination. I could not drill through it, cos it bent and was hard as a honey moon d1ck, I then opened the crimping on the edge and got the end plate out, got the bloody scroll out punched out the pea shooter in that plate, and the plate under it and below that as well, then somehow managed to crimp the edge back ... it required making an oval shaped plate to put in there and hammer the living daylights out of ... then that can had so many scratches and tool marks I had to polish it ... took da-bling 2 weeks. Finally got it looking shiny and loud like an aftermarket can, I put a perforated tube baffle in the end cap and tacked it in there ... only cost me 2 weeks of arm breaking work.

Should've just bought the bloody yosh tri oval set the stealer was selling. I still might, they look like they may be going out of business.

Cool.
Buddha.

[gregvhen]

You really ahve to replace all 3 of these with a quarter - silver dollar sized perforated metal tube and between it and the outer wall you have to pack it with a sound insulation of some kind.

I am working on some stuff. I'll be under that 300 you are talking about, but likely that I will only have very few.
Its gonna be decent stuff, and I am shooting for 150 or so for ready to fit. Cut and fit essentially.

Cool.
Buddha.

Yea thats what Im talking about, I want to put a larger perforated tube in it with some packing. I just didnt know what they were called or where to get em.  I was thinkin Id just make one out of some aluminum tubing and put in my own holes.  Then I would just wrap it with enough packing to take up the rest of the space in the can right?

Also I didnt know there was 3 chambers like that, but the dime holes is why I wanted to redo it.
Do aftermarket pipes have the 3 (or 2 or 4 or X#) chambers too mostly? or are they for the most part one tube with differant variations like hole size, placement, shape and other super technical stuff?

[tt_four]

Yeah, I pulled apart a pipe for a different bike, and it was the same way. 3 chambers with a ton of skinnier tubes. I think I was bored so I just tore everything out and riveted it back shut how it was. It sounded awful, but it was loud and that's all I really wanted.

If you were going to make your own tube I would at least try to find some steel, and then you can wrap it with that pink house insulation. I'd try to cut the peice you're using a little longer, so you can crease the one edge outward, and the other inward, so you can hook them together, and then put some JB weld on it so it's a solid tube, and not just a flat sheet rolled around. You need to pack it tight, and if you don't weld/jb weld the inside piece it will probably just rattle around inside because you won't be able to pack it tight enough.

All of this of course, if you can weld like you mentioned in the first post, sounds like more work than just finding a random cheap exhaust on ebay for $30 and just welding it to your midpipe.

[gregvhen]

I found this website while looking for pictures of the inside of FMF or Yoshi pipes. This is a guy who wanted his Yoshi pipe to be louder so he cut the pipe open (slopily IMO) and made a straight shot (like I want to do) and surrounded it with steel mesh for the layer touching the inside pipe, and sound dampening around the steel mesh.

http://www.chucksirois.com/tl1000/Exhaust_proj/index.htm

[The Buddha]

The aftermarket ones have a perforated tube running the whole length of it. Flow through.
The stock can be mangled all you want its never going to sound burbly and mellow.
The SV1K I modded sounds as best as a stock can ever can. If I spent another 3 hours modding it and trying out 1000 things it may souond mellower and burblier ... and its build is so far different that it can be modden a bit more than a GS can. However a GS can ... its pretty much going to sound like a straight pipe or sound like a sewing machine.

BTW I have a can I could sell that I mangled up off something else ... its got titanium wall and should be quite nice sounding. 100 bucks and shipping ... and I'll make the adapters to fit your GS ... sorry cant be more specific, cos that is all I know.
Its an oval can with Ti bits that I cored and baffled. It actually looks very good too. I was gonna fit it on that SV, but it is still stuck with the 2 it originally had. I never made a single for it ...

In a few days I am going to be selling stuff, a good many ... I have to clear out and get some of my garage space back, its getting too cold and dark to work outside ... that's why nothing getting done too. Anyway lots of personal stash is getting sold ... you never know what buddha stashed ... mu hahahaha hahahaha hhahahah

Cool.
Buddha.

[The Buddha]

I found this website while looking for pictures of the inside of FMF or Yoshi pipes. This is a guy who wanted his Yoshi pipe to be louder so he cut the pipe open (slopily IMO) and made a straight shot (like I want to do) and surrounded it with steel mesh for the layer touching the inside pipe, and sound dampening around the steel mesh.

http://www.chucksirois.com/tl1000/Exhaust_proj/index.htm

He he I did that with SV pipe which actually may be same as the TL's ... a GS isn't made that way though. Similar concept, entirely different execution.
You do that with a sv you may end up with a decent result. Mine isn't too bad, more fiddling can help it too ... GS is a whole other animal.
Cool.
Buddha.

[DoD#i]

Put a deer slug in the 12 gauge and point it down the tailpipe. Weld up the front if it makes it all the way through, but it probably won't.

Or you could be boring and use a bellhanger (very long) bit in a drill. Your best bet for something other than utterly useless would actually be to use a small one (1/8-1/4 inch) and make several holes, rather than punching one big hole through things. It's also somewhat adjustable, as you can make a couple of holes, then make more if you need to.

Regardless, the odds of a good result stink, but most won't believe that until they've tried several times over.

[RyanMidd]

http://www.chucksirois.com/tl1000/Exhaust_proj/index.htm

I lol'd at "Don't be a nancy boy and try a holesaw -it is stainless and will take the rest of your life..."

[The Buddha]

Yea and it doesn't react any better to a blow torch either. I sull have garbage metal balls in mine that make it sound like loose crap is in it ... which it is ...

His pics are not that clear, but mine had weld spatter, tons and tons of vice marks and tool marks and general garbage. I had to polish it, or it looked like someone ran over it with a semi truck.

Cool.
Buddha.

[tt_four]

I vote for buying Buddha's. By the time you by a peice of sheet metal, something to use as baffle, rivets, everything to need to clean it up, whatever else, you won't be too far off from this, plus you'll still have your stock as a spare. I know you think you'll never want it, but my V&H is so loud it makes me with I still had a stock exhaust to replace it with.

[The Buddha]

V&H - loud ... yea repack it. Works for ~1 year before it burns out and has to be done again.

The cans I am going to be selling - watch this space ...
Cool.
Buddha.

[jeremy_nash]

on mine I took a cutoff tool and cut both ends off the stock can, and took a cutting torch and cut all the baffles-tubes out. cutoff the stock nipple at the back, and welded in a 3/4" galvanized pipe nipple that was 6 inches long.  it sounded alot better, but still quiet enough that I didn't piss off the neighbors when I left for work in the morning.  unless I wanted too