non-uniform indicator flash

[orac]

hey all. i am new here and come with a a question about the joy on indicators (turn signal or what ever you call them from where you are from).
first tho a litttle info about the bike

1998/99 (it was registered in jan 99 but so still had a UK 98 reg)
current engine has done 46000 miles and the previous on had done about 52000
some other mods.

now the the indicators started playing. but the wierd thing is they work fine at low RPMs but flash faster as revs rise until the are just on cantantly. it makes no difference if the bike is moving or not, the revs still have the same affect on the indicators.

i have tryed several flasher relays to no difference. replace the altenator as its output was a little low. replaced the switch gear. replaced the reg/rec for a cb250 reg/rec (even the machine showed no sine of charging issues). cleaned the bulb holders and all contectors.

the only that i haven't tryed as yet is a new loom. from what i understand up until 03 there are no differences from the one i currently have. would it be benificial to replace the loom with a low milage second hand one. can any of you guys and girls see anything that i have missed.



thanks for any inout you have. 

[werase643]

what is the battery voltage at idle? and at 5k rpm?
what is the batt voltage when the blinkers are going wanky?
are the blinkers stock or aftermarket(them ugly little ones with weird bulbs that are difficult to find)

normally easiest thing is to replace with an electronic flasher.

[sledge]

errrr.....this is a family show, surely you mean "wonky" 

[werase643]

you kniggit

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-OzIMHowtL8
min 1.41.....

[Jared]

"Couldn't I just have a little peril?" Heheheh.....

So it's not a thread jack...

Do what Ken said- check your charging voltage etc first.

[orac]

what is the battery voltage at idle? and at 5k rpm?
what is the batt voltage when the blinkers are going wanky?
are the blinkers stock or aftermarket(them ugly little ones with weird bulbs that are difficult to find)

normally easiest thing is to replace with an electronic flasher.

batt - 12.5
5k - 14.5-15
batt with blinkers - 12
blinkers are are stock, the flasher relay has been replaced about 6,000,000 times with no change. any idea where i can get an electronic flasher for stock electrics here in the UK. i have been keeping an eye for one but most are for the LED blinkers.

[werase643]

the flasher is a EL-12 from an auto parts store or whatever interchanges
here about 10-15 bucks   there.....? ask the kniggit

logic thinking.....
if the lights work.... then flash more...then stay constant       replace the flasher cause it is sticking as it heats up
are you replacing the 2 bladed flasher next to the regulator? ( wires going to it are Orange and Light blue )

as you already know...it's a simple ckt.

[sledge]

This is the Kniggit speaking....coming to you live from Manchester UK 

In addition to my esteemed associates excellent advice from over the pond can I suggest you check all the indicator bulbs are rated for 12v and are the same and correct wattage. I am manual-less at present but the figure of 21w is ringing a bell for the 4 off and 3.4w for the idiot light.

[orac]

those 2 connectors on the bottom of the unit were the first things that got replaced.

this started occouring for no reason, all the bulbs were fine (21w is correct according to the manual), the holders are fine and all connectors are fine. i may pick up 4 new bulbs and replace them all to see if that makes any difference

i am serously thinking about another harness ATM, seeing as winter is starting to set in i will have to keep a close eye on all things electrical.

werase643 the flasher relay has been changed a few time for different makes and models. after that yeilded no results the switch was changed. again after that did nothing the charging and main power circuit was checked resulting the altenators being replaced (output was around 60v on all coils, the new one puts out well over 75 on all coils).

thanks for the help so far, me nor my friends (most of them are bike machanics) can find anthing to cause this issue. 

[RyanMidd]

I dunno, it sounds like some people would pay EXTRA to have lights than increase their flashing frequency the faster you go (I assume that if your RPMs are high, you must be scooting pretty good!)

That way, higher visibility when accelerating/gear-switching!

Maybe its just me. But if I had a quarter for every time I had to go into the marbles because somebody didn't see me during a lane change...Well, lets just say I'd have handfuls of quarters to throw at the offending vehicles.

[redhenracing2]

Well, lets just say I'd have handfuls of quarters to throw at the offending vehicles.

Screw quarters, today I bought a police baton to keep in my jacket pocket. Next time someone comes over on me . . . . .

[nakedGS]

I have the same problem with my turn signals. It started when I installed Buell signals and a generic Buss flasher because the stock part wouldn't flash at all.

I had an idea I thought I'd run by you all. The flash rate is increasing because of increased current in the circuit...the voltage from the charger is increasing with RPM, and since V=IR, the current increases also. How about putting a small resistor next to the flasher relay, in the circuit? I figure that the flasher relay has a range of acceptable current values over which it will flash at an acceptable frequency. I'll bet putting in a resistor might slow it down a little at idle, but keep the flash frequency at the high RPMs within acceptable limits.

Now I just have to get around to trying it out.

[orac]

I have the same problem with my turn signals. It started when I installed Buell signals and a generic Buss flasher because the stock part wouldn't flash at all.

I had an idea I thought I'd run by you all. The flash rate is increasing because of increased current in the circuit...the voltage from the charger is increasing with RPM, and since V=IR, the current increases also. How about putting a small resistor next to the flasher relay, in the circuit? I figure that the flasher relay has a range of acceptable current values over which it will flash at an acceptable frequency. I'll bet putting in a resistor might slow it down a little at idle, but keep the flash frequency at the high RPMs within acceptable limits.

Now I just have to get around to trying it out.

nice ideea but i dont think it will make mucg difference. you may find that you have a slow flash to start with which still speeds up as the RPMs build. the reg/rec should stop too much current getting onto the loom, which in turn only draw what it needs. any how my neutral light is starting to f-up too, it maybe the switch but i some how doubt it.

as for people cutting me up. that what i have 140db air horn for, it makes everybody jump every time i have ti use it. now if i had a penny for every time a made some sh!t them selves when using it, i would de a million air

[werase643]

old skool bi-metalic  flashers flash off of current heating the metal and causing it to bend...then flash...cool off.....repeat
electric flashers...don't care about current it's a timing ckt and flashes at a set time interval

[nakedGS]

old skool bi-metalic  flashers flash off of current heating the metal and causing it to bend...then flash...cool off.....repeat
electric flashers...don't care about current it's a timing ckt and flashes at a set time interval

I agree with your assessment. The stock GS flasher is electric (i.e. not a bi-metallic strip) I assume? Since I am using the bi-metallic flasher I think that reducing the current through the flasher will reduce the rapidity at which the metal is heated, this reducing the flash rate.

you may find that you have a slow flash to start with which still speeds up as the RPMs build.

True, and this won't help if the flash rate/current ratio is linear, but I feel that it is not, because electrical power is P=R*I^2. I think the the rate that the bi-metallic strip is heated is due primarily to the power provided to it, so, as current (I) is increased, the rate will increase with (at least) the square of the current increase. Anyway, I mean to say that if the current is high at idle, the difference in frequencies will be greater between high RPM and idle, than if the current at idle is a little low. Also, maybe putting a resistor in will bring the system resistance back to the level of stock which would enable me to reinstall my stock flasher relay.

Anyway, I'll try this this week and post the results.

Also, does anyone else have a problem with the flasher button not canceling the flasher when signaling a left turn? I think my flasher switch is sticky or something.