Want to repaint. Good sources for supplies and information?

[cyberdork]

Alright I'm attempting my first REAL paintjob. I did a rattle can job 2 years ago which failed horribly so I will never attempt that again. Now I know nothing of real automotive painting. Some things that are on my mind that I need to know are....

1. How to set and use a paintgun
2. Proper prep
3. Types of primer
4. Types of paint (enamels, urethanes, etc...I really have no idea about what any of these mean)
5. How many layers of each and sanding inbetween
6. Types of clearcoat and application
7. If #2-6 differ for the tank compared to the plastics
8. Wear to buy the materials.
9. How much of each material will I need


Help is greatly appreciated! I've read a few paint threads on here but feel they aren't as informational as I need.

[ver4]

Alright I'm attempting my first REAL paintjob. I did a rattle can job 2 years ago which failed horribly so I will never attempt that again. Now I know nothing of real automotive painting. Some things that are on my mind that I need to know are....

1. How to set and use a paintgun
2. Proper prep
3. Types of primer
4. Types of paint (enamels, urethanes, etc...I really have no idea about what any of these mean)
5. How many layers of each and sanding inbetween
6. Types of clearcoat and application
7. If #2-6 differ for the tank compared to the plastics
8. Wear to buy the materials.
9. How much of each material will I need


Help is greatly appreciated! I've read a few paint threads on here but feel they aren't as informational as I need.

Check the Odds and Ends section and BaltimoreGS has a nice summary of painting.

[BaltimoreGS]

Thanks for the plug Victor.  My latest thread with a ton of pics and info is here:  http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=50784.0

My previous paint thread is here: http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=50627.0

Those were both done with urethane base coat/clear coat.

Redhen has a paint thread done with a single stage urethane here: http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=50319.0

I can't find the thread at the moment but another guy did a really cool green paint job that looked like snake skin.

Pay attention to the mistakes made in those threads so you don't repeat them!  Most of your questions should be answered in those threads.  Post any other questions you have in my latest paint thread (killing time) or on this thread and I'll do my best to answer them.  The most important thing is to take your time and pay attention to the little prep details, the prep work is what makes a good paint job.  Good luck with your project!

-Jessie

Edit:  I don't know if I covered paint suppliers (threads gotten a bit too long to recall what I wrote).  The latest paint project was done with rattle can primer that can be had at any auto parts store.  The base/clear paint was bought at a Sherwin Williams industrial supply store, you'd have to ask one of the normal retailers if they can order it.  It is sold under the "Barrett Jackson" name.  A good online supplier is TCP Global (www.tcpglobal.com).  

In hind sight, using this 2K high build primer is a better way to go than rattle cans but less convenient  http://www.tcpglobal.com/kustomshop/itemdetail.aspx?itemno=KUS+KFP305-QT

If you decide to buy color coats online it would be a good idea to buy a chip chart first.  It is hard to judge colors on a monitor.


Edit:  Thanks to Josh08 for finding the cool ass green paint job thread I was referring too:  http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=49919.0

[cyberdork]

Haha alright BaltimoreGs's thread was created on my birthday, and is a great detailed thread. Thanks alot! Where did you get your painting supplies by the way? I'm not sure where to get them in Carroll County.....

[BaltimoreGS]

Hey, didn't realize you were local.  Were you the guy I talked to about synching carbs a while ago?  I'll be at my brother's house on Bachman Valley Road in Westminster for Thanksgiving   

The Sherwin Williams Industrial store is off Joppa Road in Towson between the Providence Rd and Loch Raven Blvd exits on 695.  It is across from the Merritt Athletic club.
http://maps.google.com/maps?oe=utf-8&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&um=1&ie=UTF-8&q=sherwin+williams+orchard+tree&fb=1&gl=us&hq=sherwin+williams+orchard+tree&hnear=Towson,+MD&cid=0,0,11192235258524711650&ei=FJEMS4m1HYPelAfGp5WiBA&sa=X&oi=local_result&ct=image&resnum=4&ved=0CA8QnwIwAw

-Jessie

[BaltimoreGS]

Just noticed that Sherwin Williams has a separate website for their automotive paints:  http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/

We used the planet color base coat with the Finish 1 clear

-Jessie

[cyberdork]

Yea we talked awhile back. Haha I have to be in NJ for thanksgiving 

[BaltimoreGS]

I'm sure we'll cross paths at some point.  Have a good thanksgiving and let me know if you have any unanswered paint questions.  Also, the link to that cool green paint job has been added to my above post.  Later

-Jessie

[cyberdork]

I want to do a green monster logo on my black tank, what is the proper way to do a stencil for it? Should I lay a base coat of green land lay the "M" over it. I'd imagine that would make sanding a real pain in the ass and have to constantly replace the "M". Or is the proper way to paint the tank black, then make a stencil for the "M" out of some kind of sticky paper then spray that?

[redhenracing2]

Here is my paint thread http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=50319.0

Any questions, feel free to let me know.

[BaltimoreGS]

I want to do a green monster logo on my black tank, what is the proper way to do a stencil for it? Should I lay a base coat of green land lay the "M" over it. I'd imagine that would make sanding a real pain in the ass and have to constantly replace the "M". Or is the proper way to paint the tank black, then make a stencil for the "M" out of some kind of sticky paper then spray that?

Are you repainting the entire bike or just adding the M to the existing paint job?  If you are just adding the M you can just make up a stencil and mask off the rest of the tank.

The paint job we are doing on the old Shadow (killing time thread) is a complete repaint that will be stenciled.  For that everything was painted the base color (white).  Now Kay is using fine line tape to make a stenciled design on the tank.  The rest of the white tank will be masked off and a second color will be applied in the stenciled areas.  Then all the masking will be removed and the entire piece will be clear coated.

-Jessie

[cyberdork]

Haha this confused me....which one do I need lol

[BaltimoreGS]

Haha this confused me....which one do I need lol

Depends on what you are working with.  If you strip the tank to bare metal it will have to be sprayed first with a primer sealer that has some sort of rust preventative.  Then it will need to be topped with a sandable primer.  If you have a lot of sanding marks and small imperfections that need to be filled you would use the high build primer (filler primer in your pic).

If you just scuff up the tank but don't expose bare metal you can go with the sandable primer or high build primer depending on the condition of the scuffed paint.  Remember that the filler primer is only for very small imperfections, anything else should be addresses with glazing putty (or body filler if it is a dent).  The fairings are plastic so rust is not an issue.  Sandable primer or filler primer depending on condition.

-Jessie

[cyberdork]

Alright thanks for the help. Is the putty paintable or do I have to primer that after use? Oh and does anyone know If I should take the shinyness off of the plastic, or should I go further and look for the origional plastic color. If I have to go to plastic, what color should it be?

[BaltimoreGS]

Simple rule to keep in mind: Paint doesn't stick to shiny

You don't have to take the fairings down to bare plastic but you do have to scuff the shiny off so the paint has something to stick to.  I know some people paint right over the scuffed up old paint but I like to primer and sand first until I have a uniform primer color to work with.  

Once applied, let the glazing putty dry fully (overnight is a good bet in cold weather).  That is one mistake I have made before.  Once dry it will need to be sanded and primed.  After the glazed areas have been worked out you still need to prime and sand the entire piece with 600 grit wet paper before color coating.

-Jessie


When you sand the putty you will end up with this:



The final sanding before color coating should have a uniform dual (i.e. sanded) primer finish like this:

[cyberdork]

Haha, thought about the idea of a glow in the dark clear coat. Anyone know of one?

[cyberdork]

Hmmmm, thinking the monster theme might be played out, especially since kawasaki offers fairings from the factory with a monster theme. So here's my paint schemes, let me know what you think.

1) Monster theme
-Gloss tank/plastics
-Monster "M" on tank sides
-Powder coated green rims (or black rims and a green lip, if I do the lip then matching green calipers)
-Green LED light kit
-Green (attempted) Angel eye
-Green chain (funds depending)


2) White/Green suzuki theme
-White tank/plastics
-Green (not neon and not dark) Suzuki "S" on the sides.
-Powder coated white rims (or white rims and a green lip)
-Matching green calipers
-Green LED light kit
-Green (attempted) Angel eye
-Green chain (funds depending)