PRI position and DynoJet Question

[kylegod]

Ok I've been a member and reading a lot on here lately. Everyone seems very knowledgeable and nice on here.

I have searched and read many threads on the petcock problem. Mine currently Runs on the PRI position because the diaphragm is shot or the vacuum hose from the fuel switch to the left carb is clogged (unlikely I think).

Anyway it runs fine and doesn't starve running on PRI. Bike is a '98 gs500e, with about 20k on it.

The bike came with a cobra f1 slip on pipe and the previous owner never re-jetted, so from 1-4k rpm its choking and burbly, above that its great and runs perfect and is strong. So this week I'm installing a k&n and dynojet kit stage1 I bought.

So basically I'm asking, Since I'm running on PRI, will this affect the jetting since I read somewhere on here that the PRI orifice is smaller? But from what I understand this is not right and the the PRI just re routes the fuel to come out of the RES, therefore rendering your RES useless, which I don't mind, I always check my trip and get fuel at a certain mileage.  Like i said it runs fine now and is never fuel starved, just gets choked out in low rpms due to the jetting not being correct.

So is this right? PRI just reroutes the gas to come through the RES orifice?


Thank you so much for any input or answers.

[joshr08]

pri is no smaller then on or res.  they are all the same only thing is pri as you already know doesnt need a vac. to operate the petcock.

[kylegod]

Thanks Josh... So having a non vacuum operating petcock will have no effect on my rejetting?

[jeremy_nash]

it wont affect it, but you should look into getting it fixed.  since it only runs on prime, you dont have access to reserve.  I upgraded to a petcock off an 04 on mine, it was a little over $20  on ebay

[kylegod]

isnt it the same petcock design though? And what are the chances of it being the vacuum line and not the diaphragm? Cause thatd be easy.
Thanks for the advice!

[kappa2006]

I'm guessing you don't have a vacuum gauge to check the vacuum line and diaphram of the petcock.  You could do the suck test.  Sounds funny, but works.  Pull the vacuum line off of the carb that runs to the petcock and suck on it to pull a small vacuum.  Then cover the hose with your tongue and you'll be able to tell if it holds vacuum, (ie. remains stuck to your tongue) or if you have a leak somewhere.  If you have a leak, disconnect the vacuume line from the petcock, block the end, and pull a vacuum again using the same method and see if the leak is in the line.  If it holds vacuum you have a leaking diaphram inside the petcock. 

You can also get repair kits for petcocks that replace all of the seals, diaphram, and spring.

[The Buddha]

isnt it the same petcock design though? And what are the chances of it being the vacuum line and not the diaphragm? Cause thatd be easy.
Thanks for the advice!

They are both pretty easy ... and I'd bet its not the diaphragm.
Why ...
The diaphragm when it is not opening usually means its got a tear. That tear will let gasoline pass from the front side into the vacuum section, the back side.
It will there fore drown out the left cyl in gasoline ...
The other thing is, forget Dynojet, they are more trouble than they're worth.

But well, since you already bought it, I'd really suggest you do not toss the stock needles. They will atleast let you walk back to the mikuni side if the DJ dont work, and more than likely it wont. Also do not dril land screw up your slides. If you do that the return path is much more $$$ cos they cost 60 bones and I am down to my last 2 ... they cost ya plenty more than the jet packs I sell.

BTW the 1-4K lean is due to pilot jet being too small. DJ dont have that, I'd aniticipate that problem to stay or get worse.

And K&N lunch box ? then you need to put the largest jet in the DJ kit or else you dont have a prayer ...

Cool.
Buddha.

[kylegod]

Im not saying youre wrong but why in the hell would dynojet put out a kit, along with a paper, saying, with a slip on high flow pipe and a k&n filter (yes im keeping the box) use these jets and do these mods. Sounds ridiculous. My good friend has an sv650 and a k&n and pipe and his DJ kit did wonders for his bike. and no problems ever occurred.

[The Buddha]

The same reason people spend 45-80 bucks on garbage when the equivalent things are available even easier for 20 or so ...

The same reason CEO's do insider trading and pump and dump ...

Stupidity and greed.

Very apparent in the fact that DJ wont sell you a slightly larger or smaller ... and give you a way to adjust your problems out ... Tell them your stock bike with their 118 jet is runnign slightly lean @ wfo, the next one up is 124 and its drowning in fuel and blowing black soot ... and ask them for a 120 ... see what they say.

I am not saying DJ kits dont work at all, I even have a DJ needle in my bike that I managed to tune ... not done enough with it though to do it blind ... And I wont say its total garbage either even for a GS ... However I am not using the 134 main they gave, it wasn't rich enough ... I mic'ed it and punched a spare to a wee bit larger hole ... wanna do that, sure it does work.

Other bikes have done better with DJ than a GS ...

On a GS its far less troublesome to do with mikuni jets. You know, the same people that made the carburetor.

Its a lot more work, and a lot more dangerous to do as DJ says - drilling teh slides and plugging it ... you want to mangle up your carb dont you ... yea I know, everyone is itching to do that ...

Easier, less mangling of parts and more likely to work with mikuni. Its also logical in place of trying to decode DJ gobbledygook.

Can it work with DJ, you bet, I have one that does. However, Mikuni jets I can throw it in, set it all to stock as shown in the manual and run it ...

In fact 89-00 I set up a stock bike exactly as it is set up by the factory, for bikes going to canada where they didn't have EPA. Cant beat that for transparency and simplicity. Then you run it, and it feels lean (I have had 2 people say that in the 200+ I have done ...) just run down to the dealer (or ask me) and get yourself the 1 size up from what you first put in. Simple.

Cool.
Buddha.

[kylegod]

Thanks a lot for the info. Very knowledgeable. I was reading in some other threads about DJ and you said to start with.....(i forget) and run and see how it is and then go to the next step (again i dont remember)... Sound familiar? Thanks a lot.

[The Buddha]

Kyle: I say the same 20 things a million times ... I dont recall ...

You're better off posting your setup ... I ran a K&N and pipe setup on mine with a DJ needle and what I'd call 135/136 mains, a 40 pilot and 3 turns on mix screws.

If you have stock needles, its easier ... there is fewer parts to get and you just deal in mikuni numbers. 122.5 to 125 is 1 step ... 37.5 to 40 is 1 ... so on.

Cool.
Buddha.

[kylegod]

Man im pissed I went and bought this kit. Im reading some good things, but for the majority everything I read is negative about dynojet kits for this bike. I mean its not impossible for them to work well right?
My set up is a k&n filter, keeping the same airbox, and a cobra f1 pipe.
Im wandering if I should sell this kit, research and buy off you. With the above engine mods, what would you suggest using your kit?
But I mean its not impossible to have this kit work properly right?

[The Buddha]

89-00 bike you need 127.5 and 40 with stock needles and 1-2 washers and 3 turns on air screws.
On a 01-02 its 132.5 and 20.
04 on its 135 and 20.

$25 for any of em ...

I'd try the second largest mains in the DJ kit ... heck I'd try the stock 122.5 with the DJ needle and 40 pilots and 1 #4 if its a 89-00 ...

DJ needle, stock main, 40/20 pilot 3 turns and forget washer, run needle on second or 3rd from top clip position. Likely to be close on any year bike ... tune out from there.

Cool.
Buddha.

[kylegod]

Well I installed the jet kit with no problems, exept, the last step. Adjusting the mixture screws. First screw, set it flush, the two turns out. good. Second screw..wont budge. ok hand impact screwdriver, wont budge. liquid wrench, wont budge. Blow torch, wont budge. Drilled it out and tried to pull it with backwards threaded screw remover. wont budge. Between all of this further inspection showed that the threads were all buggered up from previous owner and the top of the screw head was all stripped too. New carbs now i guess. found a pair of ebay for 89 and 12 shipping.

My questions, will newer carbs work? i see theyre different. im not sure of the year cut off. 01-06 are newer?

[The Buddha]

They all fit each other ... just some cabling and hose routing BS.
Even jetted the same way with the exception of pilots and washers, but well you're running DJ needles so its cool to run that.
Pilots you need 20's for the new ones though and 40 in the old and they are different style.
Cool.
Buddha.

[kylegod]

Would you recommend one over the other? and why were the washers and pilots different? Did the motor change at all? Im leaning towards the year carb that my bike is, especially since i found one for 89 plus 12 shipping.

[BaltimoreGS]

Syick with the '89-00 carbs if you can, I find they are the most reliable.  Also the vacuum ports are easier to access for synching too.  My 2 cents

-Jessie

[kylegod]

UGH!!! So I bought a set of carbs from a 93. Good shape except, where the butterfly valves are in the ports, (for lack of better terms) the ports are a little marred up. nicked and scratched,Iim guessing from dirt and build up in there and the valves scraping it when they open and close. I mean its very minute but i know how finnicky carbs can be. Will these small scratches and nicks cause air turbulence or anything? Again its minor, ill post pics tomorrow. Any help is greatly appreciated. Luckily the seller said hed take them back if I want. thanks!