Grinding Swing Arm for R6 Shock

[tt_four]

The R6 shock is fully adjustable for rebound and compression. To be honest though, when I put mine in I just left it on the previous owners setting and preload. I'm sure if I really cared I would mess with it, but it works just as good if not better than the stock sock, and I feel like if I still have the stock front end, there's no needs to be overly concerned with the rear. Most people swap to Katana shocks, which Buddha says is the best option. If you're gonna do some off roading I'd definitely consider something a little stiffer than the stock shock, but otherwise it always worked good enough for me. I just put on the new one to do it.

[Ken in Regina]

Thanks tt_four. I love a person who is honest and says they just did it because they wanted to. 

My DRZ forks and shocks are adjustable for pretty much everything you could possibly adjust. I still have them on the factory setting, except the rear spring preload. I had the dealer put it on the softest setting so when I put a leg over it it settles to where I can get both tiptoes on the ground instead of only one. I didn't adjust the damping to compensate and I can't say I've noticed any difference.

...ken...

[gsJack]

I just went ahead and got a pair of Burkhart links: -1.5.  They seemed to fit without any issue with the R6 shock, but the problem was that one of the links hit the swingarm (the weld stuck out a little more on one side) and I couldn't bolt it on to really test it out.  I noticed that these links were a lot wider than the stock links.  BaltimoreGS commented that it might work once I take the bike off the center stand- I'll try fooling around with that. 

So, I'm assuming grinding the dogbone is a big no-no, and that under normal circumstances one could just grind the swingarm- too bad it's powdercoated already.  I guess the option, if nothing else works, is to get a slimmer link- steel?  The Burkhart links cost about $20, has anybody bought something comparable in steel? 

-Kay

You sent me over to the garage yesterday to check this out, I've got a pair of the -2" Burkhart links laying on my puter desk and they really look massive compared to the stock links beside them.  I've got a pair of the pricey Pingel aluminum links on the bike now and they fall about half way between the stock and the Burkhart links in pure bulk.  With the bike on the ctr stand and the wheel hanging I've got about 3/16" clearance now to the swing arm crossmember and so the Burkhart link will use up only about half of that clearance.  Those Burkhart links are really much more massive than they need to be in my opinion compared to other aluminum links on the market unless they aren't made of the 6061-T6 aluminum as advertised so I'll file them down smoothly a bit for more clearance if needed when I put them on.  I've got almost 5 years and 50k miles on those Pingels now.  After I put the bike back down on the ground the clearance looked to be about the same 3/16".  I measured the links and recorded the info for my reference or anybody else that can use it:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v443/jcp8832/LinkDims.jpg

[Adfalchius]

Just an FYI- I did grind the Burkhart links a little where they hit the swingarm.  One side had to be smaller than the other - smoothed it out nicely and slapped them back on.  Consequently, lowering the bike negated the need to figure out how to rig up a center-stand stop (since I have an after-market exhaust with no stopper).

[burning1]

The R6 shock has a much stiffer spring than the stock shock (~30%) and is going to be much better suited to the weight of most riders. The internal damping design is also significantly better - the R6 is a piggyback type shock, where the stock GS is an emulsion type. The R6 shock is rebuildable, well known, and the shim stack can be easily modified. It's externally adjustable for high speed compression, low speed compression, rebound, and pre-load.

IMO, though... The front end is the biggest  weak point of our bikes. You really owe it to yourself to install some sonic springs and change the oil... It's a pretty straightforward job; not much more difficult than swapping a wheel. It's cheap too... The springs and oil can be had for $80-$90.

You also owe it to yourself to have that shock properly tuned - it'll provide a more comfortable rider, better grip, better handling, and it'll make your tires last longer. If you have a local suspension expert, please ride over to see them. Best money you're going to spend on your bike.

[Nightdrive89]

+1 for everything burning1 said,

just wanted to add, i just installed my r6 shock today, quite easy, as far as grinding, i used a carbide burr in a die grinder, just had to take off about an eighth of an inch and it cleared perfectly. i would recommend pressing 2mm brass dowel bushings into the lower clevis so the bolt seats properly without play. If you decide to get the bushings you can contact ASB bearings, they are located in connecticut. I do business with them quite often and they are very helpful. Good luck!

[burning1]

Mine bolted in without grinding, but I did have some issues installing a Katana 750 shock. My suggestion, before you grind, would be to stick a pry-bar between the shock and swingarm, and see if you can get the bolt holes to line up. Once the shock is installed, clearance isn't really a concern. A little contact at absolute top-out isn't going to hurt anything.

[seamax]

Mine bolted in without grinding, but I did have some issues installing a Katana 750 shock. My suggestion, before you grind, would be to stick a pry-bar between the shock and swingarm, and see if you can get the bolt holes to line up. Once the shock is installed, clearance isn't really a concern. A little contact at absolute top-out isn't going to hurt anything.

I don't understand how for some the swingarm does not need to be grinded while for others it does for the R6 shock.

I have the R6 red shock and had to grind a little off the stock swingarm and tthe last bottom coil to get it to fit so that I can insert the dogbone bolts. And I have shorter dogbones than stock since I wanted to rise the rear a little. I had to do this also for the extended swingarm that Jim sent me.

I'm I doing this wrong? When I test fit I have the rear tire off the ground about 2 inches. I would grind until I could fit both the bolts that hold the dogbone in place.

[burning1]

Think about where the spring touches the swingarm. Are you *sure* that raising the rear end is going to ease clearance issues..?

[seamax]

Think about where the spring touches the swingarm. Are you *sure* that raising the rear end is going to ease clearance issues..?

I think I understand what you are suggesting. I guess with shorter bones the SA would need to swing down lower than stock height in order to line up with the bolt holes and so it hits on the last coil. Otherwise it should be maybe 1/4 to 1/5 inch higher. Correct?

[burning1]

Spot on the nose. The bottom coils of the shock contact the lowest edge of the swing-arm in the fully extended position. Shorter links move the swingarm further down it's stroke, making the problem worse. Longer links will tend to lower the rear end and make the problem better. If your linkage/swingarm are stock, I'd be very surprised to find that you have clearance issues.

BTW... I would be interested in procuring some raising links for the GS. I'd like to bring the rear end up 10-15mm for cornering clearance and handling. Any idea where I could find something like that?

[seamax]

Spot on the nose. The bottom coils of the shock contact the lowest edge of the swing-arm in the fully extended position. Shorter links move the swingarm further down it's stroke, making the problem worse. Longer links will tend to lower the rear end and make the problem better. If your linkage/swingarm are stock, I'd be very surprised to find that you have clearance issues.

BTW... I would be interested in procuring some raising links for the GS. I'd like to bring the rear end up 10-15mm for cornering clearance and handling. Any idea where I could find something like that?

Got mine off ebay..they have them for different heights...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Raising-Riser-kit-GS500-GS-500-All-Years-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem41474afddaQQitemZ280368971226QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories


or if you want adjustable ones...


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Suzuki-GS500-Adjustable-Lowering-Links-Link-Kit-GS-500-/180660500701?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a103478dd

[burning1]

Thanks. The 5/8" kit looks like it would meet my needs perfectly. I'm not sure I'd trust an adjustable kit - I've had trouble with adjustable parts coming out of adjustment on my bike.

[burning1]

Which links did you install, that created clearance issues? I'd rather not grind if I can avoid it.

[seamax]

I think I have the 1.25" or the 2" one. Definitely not the 5/8" one.

[burning1]

Got it.

5/8 is more than enough for me.

[drabbit17]

Hello.. I just wanted to know if the R6 shock will fit in my 1995 gs500e. Im having some problems driving with my wife to work since the stock shock bounce a lot.

Thanks for the help!