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at first I was like . . .[damage photos]

Started by troxy18, April 22, 2010, 06:46:44 PM

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troxy18

#20
I took the engine out completely


engine right side


engine left side


current holdup, the stator sheared its allen bolts holding it to the left side cover, it is currently only being held in the rotor by the magnets, this prevents me from unbolting the rotor and removing that.

Any suggestions on getting these two off of the crankshaft?

edit making the pictures smaller.

Paulcet

Quote from: troxy18 on April 24, 2010, 08:02:44 PM
current holdup, the stator sheared its allen bolts holding it to the left side cover, it is currently only being held in the rotor by the magnets, this prevents me from unbolting the rotor and removing that.

Any suggestions on getting these two off of the crankshaft?

Rotor and stator are screwed anyway.   Get started with a hacksaw or cut-off wheel on a grinder.

'97 GS500E Custom by dgyver: GSXR rear shock | SV gauges | Yoshi exh. | K & N Lunchbox | Kat forks | Custom rearsets | And More!

jeremy_nash

#22
Quote from: troxy18 on April 24, 2010, 11:34:21 AM
but the crank shaft still turns.  I am not sure where to torque it all

before you pulled the motor out, you could've put the bike in gear and had someone hold the rear brake while you took an impact to the bolt.

Quote from: troxy18 on April 24, 2010, 08:02:44 PM
current holdup, the stator sheared its allen bolts holding it to the left side cover, it is currently only being held in the rotor by the magnets, this prevents me from unbolting the rotor and removing that.

Any suggestions on getting these two off of the crankshaft?

I would mask off the engine with duct tape, and use an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel to cut around the rotor towards the rear, to get that whole mess out of your way.
gsxr shock
katana FE
99 katana front rim swap
vapor gauge cluster
14 tooth sprocket
95 on an 89 frame
lunchbox
V&H ssr2 muffler
jetted carbs
150-70-17 pilot road rear
120-70-17 sportmax front
sv650 rear wheel
sv650 tail swap
gsxr pegs
GP shift

troxy18

QuoteRotor and stator are screwed anyway.   Get started with a hacksaw or cut-off wheel on a grinder.

hacksaw on the giant superstrong magnet?

I think if I can get the bolt holding the rotor off I should be able to get the rotor off., its just applying a wrench to the right places is the problem. and having something countertorque it.

jeremy_nash

the magnets are only epoxied to the rotor,  you could use a screwdriver between the gears where the crank spins the clutch basket, but I'm pretty sure you will still need an impact wrench to get it off there.  good luck with it though, and thanks for posting pics of your progress so far!
gsxr shock
katana FE
99 katana front rim swap
vapor gauge cluster
14 tooth sprocket
95 on an 89 frame
lunchbox
V&H ssr2 muffler
jetted carbs
150-70-17 pilot road rear
120-70-17 sportmax front
sv650 rear wheel
sv650 tail swap
gsxr pegs
GP shift

troxy18

So I got the bolt holding the alternator rotor off, but I lack the tool to remove the rotor.  Looking in the haynes manual it says that an M14x1.5 bolt and a spacer can be used to push the rotor off of the shaft, has anyone else done this before?  Where would be a good place to get a bolt of this size?

Paulcet

I think you need a slide hammer with that thread.  Might need to make your own, or try to get Buddha's: http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=42867.0

'97 GS500E Custom by dgyver: GSXR rear shock | SV gauges | Yoshi exh. | K & N Lunchbox | Kat forks | Custom rearsets | And More!

Bandit777jeff

Clymer says you need a special puller and not to try to remove without.  Part no 09930-33710 is the screw on attachment and part no 09930-30102 is the sliding shaft.  You can make your own though but I am not sure how that is done.

jonathaneugene

I just finished replacing mine. My bike's crash wasn't as bad, but had the exact same effect.  Not sure how to post pics otherwise I would.  I went through a couple different slide hammers and they didn't work/made things worse.  The best thing to do is to clamp on to the rotor (since yours is toast anyway) with a pair of vise grips to keep the crank from moving and loosen the bolt with your wrench.  You can also use one of those strap wrenches to hold the rotor. Be careful not to bust your knuckles.  All the bolts inside the case have locktite on the threads.  Next buy a bolt that fits the rotor threads (the longest you'll find is about 4", but 2" should work just fine) make sure this bolt is 14mm wide with a 1.5mm pitch. Also get a 3/8" bolt with a long shoulder.  You cut the head and threads off this bolt and stuff it into the end of the crankshaft so that the crankshaft threads are protected.  Tighten in the 14mm bolt down really tight against the 3/8" bolt, then hit the 14mm bolt head with a hammer.  One medium hit with a hammer and mine fell on the ground.  I got this idea from someone else that posted this before.  The hammer hit really makes this work. 

troxy18

that is pretty much exactly what the haynes manual said I could do for this.

troxy18

I used the m14x1.5 bolt to get the alternator/rotor off the shaft.  since I did not have a strap wrench and already had the right side engine cover off I used a wrench on one of the bolts on the right side to counter the cranking I was doing on the left side.



Now how do I tell whether I bent up the crankshaft?  I can turn the engine with a wrench on one of the right hand side shaft bolts but it seems to be binding and then springing loose.  I removed the spark plugs so I know that the compression of the pistons is not causing this.  Is this a sign that the crank shaft might be bent?  Or is this due to the shape of the cams and valve springs pushing back on the rotation of the crankshaft?

sledge

Quote from: troxy18 on April 29, 2010, 02:30:13 PM
Now how do I tell whether I bent up the crankshaft? 

Have look on Youtube, loads of examples on there but you will probably find it easier to take the engine to a machine-shop and let them check it. They will have all the gear, DTI`s and clamps etc, it wont take long or cost silly money.
Runout should be zero and obviously the greater the run-out the more the likelyhood of problems. I would take 0.002thou as an absolute maximum.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y8opndNj44Q&feature=related

This vid` shows a DTI being used to check runout on a brake disc, it will give you an idea of how the setup works.






jonathaneugene

The only way to know for sure if the crank is bent is to use the dial indicator (dial test indicator, DTI, etc.).  I'm really skeptical that you bent it though, I think you're just being paranoid.  Look at how stout that metal is!  I just slapped on the replacement parts on my bike and never measured my crankshaft runout.  And it runs just fine now.  *disclaimer* I like to take risks.

It sounds like the valves are what you're feeling when you rotate the crankshaft.

By the way, in case you didn't know, you can slide that starter driven gear right off the end of the crankshaft to get it out of the way.  Nothing is holding it on in your picture.

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