Valve adjustment woes. Camchain Tensioner?

[Iroquois]

So I'm doing my first valve adjustment thanks to the video made by Kerry (which made it look easier than I thought) but now I'm cursing myself for trying. I dont have the special tool so I took off the IN camshaft and got the shims out that way, but now I can't get it to go back in place! It won't stretch far enough!

Since I got frustrated with that I took off the exhaust camshaft as well to try to get the shims out, but the buckets are stuck so I don't know how to get them out (maybe a magnet tool?). This is all pissing me off really badly. I also tried to look in the manual about how to release the camchain tensioner but it was so vague that I couldn't figure it out. Plus their is barely any room between the tensioner and the carbs.   I just wanna go on a ride!

[pandymai]

i use an angled pick and a magnet to get the shims out. but i used the shim tool because i felt it would be a good investment xD i'm sure you can get the cams just far enough to pry the shims off.
since you have the bike half taken apart, you might as well take the carbs off to get at the tensioner easier. sometimes more is less, instead of fishing into the small space available and making it more difficult, take a few more steps to simplify the whole process.

good luck friend.

[Iroquois]

Alright so I took out the carbs and air box to get to the cam chain tensioner. Worked like a miracle. Now I just have to figure out how to get the exhaust shims to come out.  


Also, all the clearances were less than 0.038, which is my smallest blade. The IN shims are 255 and 260. Would it be safe to go for 240's or smaller?

[the mole]

I got my shims out with the careful use of a couple of screwdrivers, but I wouldn't recommend it, and will be buying a valve tool before I adjust them again. I have also had my cams off, but got them back on OK by following the Haynes manual. What is stopping you getting your inlet cam back on?
Why are you trying to get the buckets out? That shouldn't be necessary, you only need to get the shims out.

[Iroquois]

I can get the cams back on fine, now all I need to do is remove the exhaust shims.

[gsJack]

I never had any trouble lifting the shims out with tweezers but you need to grab them at the notch in the bucket.  I also use a screwdriver to hold the bucket down while changing shims.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v443/jcp8832/ValveShimTools.jpg

[Iroquois]

gsJack, thanks, I was able to pry out the exhaust shims with a set of pliers. Now I have another question...

Current Shims (all clearances were below 0.038)

LEX       REX
268       270

LIN        RIN
260       255

What size shims do I need? Can I put the 260 and 255 in the exhaust buckets and swap the exhaust shims for 245's from the dealer?

Thanks in advance.

[pandymai]

if the buckets still moved when the cams were on, than you should only need to go one size down. the factory specs say a range between .08-.03mm clearance is optimal. if they were all just about there, i'd rotate all the shims clockwise( LIN to LEX, LEX to REX...) and recheck clearances.

then again, i love taking lots of time doing things over and over again because im a bit OCD until i snap and not give a effffff haha then i just slap it back together without caring at all. good thing i have a high tolerance for stuff i actually care for =P

[pandymai]

shims move down in .05mm increments, you should rarely have to drop down a whole .1mm but i would double check just in case.

[Iroquois]

if they were all just about there, i'd rotate all the shims clockwise( LIN to LEX, LEX to REX...) and recheck clearances.

How would that work? That would just make the intake clearance even smaller right?

[pandymai]

if they were all just about there, i'd rotate all the shims clockwise( LIN to LEX, LEX to REX...) and recheck clearances.

How would that work? That would just make the intake clearance even smaller right?

sorry, REX would NOT go to RIN. sorry i didnt clarify.

actually. looking again. you should probly only do RIN to LIN and LIN to LEX. the other 2 should probly be downsized with different shims.

[gsJack]

I would put the 260 shim in the RHE and the 255 shim in the LHE to give both exhaust valves an additional .004" clearance approx.  I started setting my exhaust valves on the loose side to extend valve life on my 02 GS since one of my exhausts valves was down to a minimum 215 shim before 80k miles on my 97 GS.  The exhaust valve clearances are holding now on my 02 GS and I expect it to go to 100k miles now on mid size shims.  If you redline it all day long you might want to keep them a bit tighter by shooting for the top end of the standard .001-.003" (.03-.08mm) range.  It's pointless to run a stock GS over 9k rpm in my opinion since HP peak is @ 8500 rpm.

If the intake buckets turn freely with the finger tip with the cam lobe away a one size smaller shim should put you in standard range.  My intake valves never change as you can see on my valve check log, it's the exhaust valves that burn if set too tight:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v443/jcp8832/valveclearances.jpg

[Iroquois]

I went up to the Suzuki dealer to see if I could swap shims but they said no, and that I had to ordem them. 

Anyway the mechanic there told me to do this:

LEX         REX
260         265

LIN          RIN
255         250

He then pulled a 265 out of the desk and told me I couldn't swap for it. It looks a bit sketch, doesnt have a number, just says 2.65 in sharpy. But I said the hell with it and bought that sketchy one and ordered a 250. Should be here by the end of next week. I got the chain all timed up and ready to just pop in the new shim. Thanks for the help guys

[pandymai]

always measure the shim!! just to make sure. shims sometimes wear as well and arent quite what they sometimes say they are. i wouldnt fret about the sharpie though, sometimes the numbers wear off and when people measure the shim they will just write the number on it so they know.

good luck!