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Got it started again! Needs tuning...

Started by scroggins5000, May 11, 2010, 09:10:39 AM

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tt_four

I have the V&H and K&N with 135 jets, but the problems your having should have more to do with the idle jets, unless you're having problems with the bike at full throttle. Have you played with the idle adjustment screw as well? That can be a source of headaches if not adjusted properly.

I pulled my carbs apart to clean them this weekend because my choke was not working properly either, but still no luck. I can make it start by turning up the idle, but once it warms up I Just have to keep turning the idle down. Every redlight until I'm out of town is just me leaned over playing with the idle screw. I didn't think to take out the air mixture screws. Is there anything gas behind those screws, or just air? If I unscrew them will gas start leaking out and make a mess, or if I drain the float bowls will I be alright?

Wish I would've read this post yesterday morning instead of today after I already put everything back together.

scroggins5000

#21
Quote from: 007brendan on May 23, 2010, 11:07:52 PM
Did you ever find out what size jets your carbs have?  It should be printed pretty prominently on the top.  That sounds like the most likely culprit for leanness.  

The jets are stamped 134 on top. I've read that with a K&N and Vance&Hines you should use 150's to get proper fuel/air ratio. Any ideas?

scroggins5000

Quote from: tt_four on May 24, 2010, 04:02:57 AM
I have the V&H and K&N with 135 jets, but the problems your having should have more to do with the idle jets, unless you're having problems with the bike at full throttle. Have you played with the idle adjustment screw as well? That can be a source of headaches if not adjusted properly.

I pulled my carbs apart to clean them this weekend because my choke was not working properly either, but still no luck. I can make it start by turning up the idle, but once it warms up I Just have to keep turning the idle down. Every redlight until I'm out of town is just me leaned over playing with the idle screw. I didn't think to take out the air mixture screws. Is there anything gas behind those screws, or just air? If I unscrew them will gas start leaking out and make a mess, or if I drain the float bowls will I be alright?

Wish I would've read this post yesterday morning instead of today after I already put everything back together.

Inside the pilot screw chamber there are the idle circuits that lead to the float bowls. I'm not sure if the gas would leak out, but if you drain the bowls you should be fine.

scroggins5000

I forgot to mention. The needles were both set in the 2nd notched position. 1 being the top and 5 the bottom.

bombjack

I don't think your main jet is the culprit if the engine stutters and dies at low rpms.
Maybe your exhaust valves are tight. Tight valves would cause those symptoms.
English is not my first language. Please ignore grammar and spelling errors. Thanks!

scroggins5000

Got it running well last night, but I think it needs some more fine tuning.

I adjusted the pilot screws out to three full turns, and then adjusted the idle screw some. It fired up first try without the choke. After it warmed up, I adjusted the idle screw until the RPMs fell somewhere around 1300.

Without any load on the engine when you give it some gas it seems to rev up quickly, and seems hesitate while dropping back to normal RPM's. I've heard that this can be caused by the mixture being too rich. I guess I need to try to back down somewhere between 2-3 full turns on the pilot screws and go slightly higher on the idle screw.

pandymai

you should also check the float heights and valve clearances
rustbucket on wheels that go vroom vroom and stuff.

Quote from: Homer on July 08, 2010, 08:34:38 PM
If this freshershest-thread-ever gets spoiled by petty fighting, I'm gonna be so mad.  

bombjack

Quote from: scroggins5000 on May 25, 2010, 09:19:45 AM
...when you give it some gas it seems to rev up quickly, and seems hesitate while dropping back to normal RPM's.

That's another symptoms of tight exhaust valves. Lean mixture or a carb leak would also cause this, but I would definitely check the valves if I was you.
English is not my first language. Please ignore grammar and spelling errors. Thanks!

utgunslinger13

I don't believe that is a symptom of being rich.  Search around for "hanging idle" and most responses you will see pertain to being to lean.
Check out my current project build:

http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=41982.0

scroggins5000

Quote from: pandymai on May 25, 2010, 09:20:57 AM
you should also check the float heights and valve clearances

Float heights are good. I'd rather not move on to something else if I don't need to, so I will eliminate the problem of it being air/fuel ratio first. If it's still acting up then I'll look at getting some valve shims.

I should mention I am probably going to have to sell this bike. I wish I could keep it to ride to work, but I need the money.

pandymai

if the valves are too far out of spec, you wont be able to properly tune the air/fuel ratio because the valves will not be actuating properly for the air/fuel flow
rustbucket on wheels that go vroom vroom and stuff.

Quote from: Homer on July 08, 2010, 08:34:38 PM
If this freshershest-thread-ever gets spoiled by petty fighting, I'm gonna be so mad.  

scroggins5000

Quote from: utgunslinger13 on May 25, 2010, 09:34:31 AM
I don't believe that is a symptom of being rich.  Search around for "hanging idle" and most responses you will see pertain to being to lean.

It doesn't really hang and then come down. It starts lowering RPMs immediately, but it seems it takes longer than it should to reach correct idle.

scroggins5000

Quote from: pandymai on May 25, 2010, 09:57:51 AM
if the valves are too far out of spec, you wont be able to properly tune the air/fuel ratio because the valves will not be actuating properly for the air/fuel flow

Yeah I know, but if they are in spec then I should be able to tune it properly.... So, I'm not going to check the valves yet. I want to eliminate one problem at a time.

For example, If my lamp doesn't come on, then I could check the light bulb, check the fuse box, and call the electric provider all at the same time... But I'd rather see if it's plugged in first, then move on to the next solution.

pandymai

#33
i'll admit im not sure. but my point is that you wont get the throttle response you want BECAUSE the valves are out of spec. that is, IF they are..

my only experience is when i fixed another bike, it just wouldnt respond kindly to throttle and would be slow to come down off a rev. i would adjust as you are now. then decided to take the 20 minutes to check valve clearances. super tight in exhaust valves. swapped off the shims and everything ran cleaner. true, the bike wasnt running 100% yet, but every adjustment was closer to perfect, not just plateau-ing at "close"

personally, the carb is a harder to tune variable than the valve clearances. so if i knew for sure my valves were in check, then i knew i could get my carbs to do what they needed to correctly without worrying about another issue.
rustbucket on wheels that go vroom vroom and stuff.

Quote from: Homer on July 08, 2010, 08:34:38 PM
If this freshershest-thread-ever gets spoiled by petty fighting, I'm gonna be so mad.  

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