Wheel Bearings

[Briliu]

I just got back from taking the wheels of my bike. It was alot easier than it sounded  

Anyway, im looking at the bearings inside the wheels, and there is lots of grease in there. Im assuming they are sealed bearings, so they shouldnt have grease outside of them??

So i was first of all wondering if I should replace them, since i have the wheels off already it probably wont hurt right? And second, what kind should i get? Do they come with seals (the little rubber thingies)? And how much do they cost?

Thanks for all of you guy's help thus far!

[dgyver]

They are sealed bearings and there shouldn't be grease inside the wheels. Easy to replace and fairly inexpensive. I get them from a dealer for about $15 each (2 per wheel).

To install them, put the new bearings in the freezer over night. This will shrink the bearing slightly and allow them to install easier. Knock out the old ones with a screw driver by tapping evenly around the bearing. Since you will be throwing them away, it doesn't matter if they get damaged. A bearing press is the best to use to install the new bearings. But for those of us that don't have one, use a large socket (32mm w/ extension) or similar object the same size as the bearing (I use an extra frame slider), press it firmlly against the bearing and lightly tap with a hammer. Make sure you only put pressure on the outer race and never on the inner race. Before installing the other bearing put the spacer in the wheel. Repeat the process fro the other bearing and you are done.

[Briliu]

so the spacer goes inbetween the bearings??? Inside the wheel hub? Because the way it was on the wheels i just took off it was bearing, empty space bearing, spacer on outside. Im guessing thats wrong, unless i misunderstood you.

[500rider]

dgyver will probly respond but yeah .. there should be a spacer between the bearings.  

I think this is a critical item.  I think its there so that the inner races do not take too much pressure once the axel bolt is done up.

[Mumu]

There should be an external spacer too, you will probably "find" the internal one when you knock the old bearings out.  If you have not removed the bearings then it will not be obvious that the internal one is there as it will just look like the innner surface of the hub.

[dgyver]

dgyver will probly respond but yeah .. there should be a spacer between the bearings.  

I think this is a critical item.  I think its there so that the inner races do not take too much pressure once the axel bolt is done up.

Both are correct. I was refering to the inner spacer between the bearings, looks like a short piece of pipe. I didn't mention the external spacers since the wheel was already removed from the bike. Also, put a little grease on the axle when re-installing. This will help with pushing it in the wheel.

[Briliu]

Ok! Thanks for the help! I'll let you know if I run into anything unexpected.

[The Buddha]

Most of the above advise is fine... But...
Do not attempt to knock out the bearings with a screw driver... You need a drift punch ... that is the right way to do it. Trust me... I have broken the inner race out of the bearing... the very first bearing I removed too and you do not want to do that. Get a drift punch... I got mine at walmart... but Home depot or Lowes probably has better ones. I later got some stainless steel rods I plan on grinding etc and making a drift punch set from.
Cool.
Srinath.

[Wrencher]

Actually the "correct" way is to use the afore mentioned bearing press to remove the old and install the new. Like this one that works very nicely and isn't horribly expensive. http://www.mactools.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ItemNum=BRD129MA

I don't see the part of the tool from bearing removal in the picture even though it is called a 'bearing removal and installation tool'. It looks rather like a long chisel that fits into an expanding chock that is fitted inside the inner race. Chock in one side, long chisel through the wheel like an axle, simply tap out (or pound, depending on the vintage) and repeat for other side. No bloody knucles, your kids don't learn new words and no wallowed out rims.

The screw driver and socket method works, but I thought I should elaborate on the tool actually designed to do this.

[The Buddha]

Yes that removal tool... Long chisel slide into one side... is called a punch, and since it is free to move sideways unless you hold it in place its called a drift punch. Also you can buy bearings with 2 plastic or metal sheilds... those shields help retain grease in the bearing... They however may get damaged when whacking it wil a socket. So I remove the seal on 1 side of the bearing before installing, then put that side to the outside and use the socket and whack it in with socket, then re install the shield. My friend says he repacks them with Redline full synthetic wheel bearing grease and seems to make it run better and last longer.
Cool.
Srinath.

[Wrencher]

I think we are saying more or less the same thing. One point of clarification to what I said earlier though. With the removal tool, the drift never touches the bearing. The insert is supporting the inner race and distributing the force from the drift.

[Briliu]

I just ended up having the shop do it while they had the wheels for replacing the tire. Little steep, $92 labor, for 2 wheels, thats including the tires and the bearings though.

These tires are SO different from the other ones, they feel a bit slippery, and the new break pads dont make that feel any better when stoping either.

Something i noticed when i was starting from stoplights: I no longer have that second noticable kick of power at around 8k. I mean come on, an SUV beat me off the line, (and yes we were racing ^_^). I installed the uni filter, so perhaps I put too much oil on it? Or just different jetting needed. It does FEEL different accelerating. Slower i guess is what you'd call it.

[yamahonkawazuki]

what they all said pretty much says it all. :mrgreen:  :mrgreen:  :mrgreen:

[jake42]

since we're on the topic.  what's the normal lifespan of the wheel bearings?  porbably gonna change mine this winter just in case, but i was curious.

Jake

[Lars]

My rearwheelbearings where done with at 25000 miles.  The front ones still look like new, or they where replaced before 15000 miles where on the bike (They look like SKF-bearings, so there's certainly a possibility   )

The standard bearings are not high quality ones. Get bearings from a known bearing-manufacturer like SKF. The bearings should be closed at both sides (unlike the crappy stock ones) so they will last longer.

[dgyver]

The bearings I get from the dealer are SKF. The last set I bought for the front were $13.88 each.

[The Buddha]

since we're on the topic.  what's the normal lifespan of the wheel bearings?  porbably gonna change mine this winter just in case, but i was curious.

Jake

At 40 K my 89's are fine, at 8K the 91 was shot, and at 9 K my eli 900 was shot too... So life is worse when it sits... and collects water and etc etce...
Cool.
Srinath.