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gs500e exhaust cam installation problems

Started by Saculia, June 15, 2010, 12:05:36 PM

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Saculia

Hi,

I have been dealing with my girlfriend's 93 GS500E for a bit now.  The hole think started with me replacing the base gasket to repair an oil leak and up until now I have had to install and remove the head 2 times.  I very much would like to avoid doing it a 3rd time. 
The main issue has been the installation of the exhaust cam.  I have had a couple of bolt holes in the head for the cam caps strip.  I was not over tightening the bolts ( was using a torque wrench set to 8 ft-pounds).  The first time the front hole on the left exhaust cam got stripped, forcing me to take the head to a machine shop and have a threaded insert installed.  Now, after reordering a new head gasket, o-rings, and copper washers, the same problem occurred to the front bolt hole on the right cam cap.
Needless to say the head is off again and is on its way to the machine shop in order to re-machine and install new inserts into all 8 bolt holes.  I would like to prevent this from happening.  However, is there a trick to installing the exhaust cam?  Part of the problem is that I am installing the cam with the left exhaust valve open and the cam lobe pushing against the valve spring.  On a couple of occasions I have had the cam slip as I was tightening it and change the timing, requiring me to unbolt the caps again and readjust things.  Is there a more efficient way of holding the exhaust cam in place during installation?
The second question I have is regarding the use of a new head gasket.  Every time I have had the head off so far, I have ordered a new head gasket and o-rings.  Needless to say this has become a bit expensive, about $60 each time.  Is it possible to reuse the old head gasket without problems?  I was thinking of spraying it with some copper gasket sealer, but don't know how effective that is and if it presents other problems?  The bike has not been fired up yet with the head gasket that I used when I installed the head before I had to remove it due to the stripped threads.

Thanks in advance for all your help and suggestions.
fat cells

utgunslinger13

I had some problems with installing the exhaust cam and the left side lobe was hitting the shim.  Unfortunately there is no way around it and you just have to slowly tighten bolt sides of the cam down equally and slowly.  Making sure not to over tighten or bind the screw.

As for the head gasket, are you using the metal gasket?  If so, I don't see a problem with reusing it especially since you've never even ran it with it on.  I'd recommend the copper spray as well.  If its made of gasket material and has metal inserts around the cylinders then do not use it as it will leak.
Check out my current project build:

http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=41982.0

Saculia

Yes,
This is the metal gasket. I am not sure that I understand correctly.  Is it recommended to spray the metal head gasket with the copper spray, or is that to be used mainly on composite head gaskets? 
Thanks alot for the reply.
fat cells

utgunslinger13

I always spray the metal and gasket material gaskets with the copper spray.  The only gasket I wouldn't spray with the copper spray is the rubber gasket around the valve cover.  However, just because I do it doesn't mean it SHOULD be done.  To me the GS engine is a cheap engine, and doesn't need to be handled with kid gloves like you would a ferrari.
Check out my current project build:

http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=41982.0

utgunslinger13

http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_sealants/auto_Permatex_Copper_Spray-A-Gasket_Hi-Temp_Adhesive_Sealant.htm

This is the stuff I pick up from Autozone, and the site says it can be used on basically anything and helps fill irregularities.  I'd say it would be a good idea if you are planning on reusing the head gasket. IMO at least.
Check out my current project build:

http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=41982.0

Saculia

Thanks a lot.  This is actually the spray I was planning on getting.
fat cells

burning1

Quote from: Saculia on June 15, 2010, 12:05:36 PM
I was not over tightening the bolts ( was using a torque wrench set to 8 ft-pounds).

I've ruined far more bolts with a torque wrench than I have by hand. What's the torque range for the wrench you are using?

Saculia

The torque range on my torque wrench is 5-85 ft-pounds.  It is a very good quality wrench that I trust.  It has been recently calibrated and I have used it in the past for many jobs, such as car intake manifolds and suspension components.  The torque setting I had it on was 8ft-lbs, which is about 11 Nm.  Torque range for the cam cap bolts is 8-12 Nm according to the service and repair manual. 
fat cells

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