Stubborn oil drain plug? (also NEW RIDER/MEMBER!!) (pics)

Started by pancakes, June 25, 2010, 03:54:03 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

pancakes

i got my first bike about a month ago and decided to change its oil today because no telling when the previous owner last did it. but i couldnt for the the life of me get the oil drain plug off or even get it to budge just a bit. im 95% sure it was the right bolt but what could i use to possibly get it to loosen some

also its an 07 gs500f. i picked it up for $2300 cash off craigslist


pancakes

thought i would add, i did NOT put that GSX sticker on the side of the lower fairing. i guess the previous owner was ashamed that he was not on a > or = 600cc  :cookoo:

pandymai

try a longer wrench? and it's the only bolt that's on the bottom of the motor/oil pan so im pretty sure you found the right one.

if it's on that hard, i would worry about the condition of the threading and whatnots. oil pans dont like being overtightened.

edit: and welcome to the forum! =]
rustbucket on wheels that go vroom vroom and stuff.

Quote from: Homer on July 08, 2010, 08:34:38 PM
If this freshershest-thread-ever gets spoiled by petty fighting, I'm gonna be so mad.  

burning1

There's only one bolt on the bottom, but there are a couple on the sides that tech has mistaken for an oil drain bolt.

To the OP... Be very wary if it takes a lot of force to get that bolt out... The good news is that the GS engine isn't made of aluminum... But it's still easy enough to strip the drain bolt. If it's over tightened, the previous owner may have been ham fisted, or may have been trying to fix a leak using force.

pancakes

thanks for the replies. i checked my oil and it still has an amber color (not jet black like the oil in my truck was!) so i figured i could put it off for atleast another 1,000 miles or so. next time i'll probably hit it with some wd40 maybe? also when i was looking at the oil change faq on this site, it said the oil drain plug was a 21mm, mine is a 17?

gsJack

Leaning on a big wrench is a sure way to botch things up like rounding off the head of the drain plug.  I reach up between the header pipes with a deep wall 17 mm socket and use an L handle on it to break it loose and if it's really tight I rap on the end of the L handle (sometimes called a breaker bar but they aren't really that long if you're using 3/8 drive socket and bar) to break it loose just like an impac wrench would.  A six point socket is nice if you're already starting to round it.  If you don't have a deep socket a combination wrench should just slip in between the header pipe and engine sump using the box end on the drain plug and you can rap on that too.  Either way be sure to hold the socket or box end wrench tight against the engine so it doesn't slip.  If you're using an open end wrench I don't even want to watch.

They were 21 mm from 89 thru 2000 and have been 17 mm since 01.  I used an old 13/16" deep wall spark plug socket on my 97 GS 21 mm drain plug, fit a bit snug but worked nice that way.  Ya gotta be old to have one of those around.   :icon_lol:

407,400 miles in 30 years for 13,580 miles/year average.  Started riding 7/21/84 and hung up helmet 8/31/14.

Paulcet

Quote from: gsJack on June 25, 2010, 04:36:02 PM
I used an old 13/16" deep wall spark plug socket on my 97 GS 21 mm drain plug, fit a bit snug but worked nice that way.  Ya gotta be old to have one of those around.   :icon_lol:

Hey, I've got one of those!

'97 GS500E Custom by dgyver: GSXR rear shock | SV gauges | Yoshi exh. | K & N Lunchbox | Kat forks | Custom rearsets | And More!

007brendan

"Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement."

black and silver twin

Quote from: burning1 on June 25, 2010, 04:04:31 PM
There's only one bolt on the bottom, but there are a couple on the sides that tech has mistaken for an oil drain bolt.

To the OP... Be very wary if it takes a lot of force to get that bolt out... The good news is that the GS engine isn't made of aluminum... But it's still easy enough to strip the drain bolt. If it's over tightened, the previous owner may have been ham fisted, or may have been trying to fix a leak using force.

The gs engine IS made of aluminum, I just tesed it (again) with a magnet. The magnet stuck to the steel frame, but not to the aluminum engine. If the engine was ferrous (iron, mild/hardened steel, ect.) the magnet would stick (unless it was stainless steel which is non-magnetic, BUT engines are not made of stainless, ever, the only two metals blocks are made of on a street vehicle is iron or aluminum.).
07 black GS500F; fenderectomy, NGK DPR9EIX-9 plugs, 15T sprocket, Jardine exhaust, K&N lunchbox, 20-62.5-152.5 jets 1 washer, timing advance 6*, flushmount signals,Tommaselli clipons over tree, sv650 throttle, 20w forkoil, sport demon tires, Buddha fork brace, Goodridge SS lines, double bubble

burning1

Thanks for the correction. For some reason, I recall a magnet sticking. I guess I was mistaken.

redhawkdancing

Just recently had that problem with my car oil plug. Sprayed it with WD-40 and tried it again the next day. Came off like butter!   :thumb:

Jeff P

Every garage should have a can of proper penetrating fluid.  Get some Liquid Wrench/Knoc'kr Loose/etc.  WD-40 will work in a pinch but isn't the best for this.

gsJack's advice is correct, as usual.

jeff

SMF spam blocked by CleanTalk