Another "Is this normal" thread.

[The Cable Guy]

Okay, so I recently remembered that there was the valuable resource of GSTwins.com. So now that I've been riding this thing for over 3 months, I've kind of learned the little nuances that I've encountered with this bike.

The most annoying so far is start up. After getting the bike running (choke in variable positions, on through full) I usually need the bike to warm up for 5-10 minutes. Basically, with the full choke on, it seems like 4500rpm is good, but 5000rpm is optimal. I've been reading about tight valves and so on. Could this be the problem, or is this normal?

Second, My indicator lights. This is an '05 and I'm sure the lights are stock (i've already had to replace the tach and spedo lights) but my turn signal indicator light is completely out, it worked for a few weeks after I got it. Second to go was my high-beam light. It would flicker on and off occasionally, but now completely disappears. I'm noticing now that my neutral indicator is occasionally out, but comes back every so often. Now are these cases of bad bulbs, or is there something deeper at hand? and of course, is this normal?

Third, from neutral into first. Sometimes, with the clutch pulled in on neutral, the bike will not engage into first gear, as in the lever will not click down. I need to release the clutch about half way, re-engage the clutch, and the bike will click into first. Is this normal?

That's all for now.. I think, but I have one general question. I've changed my front sprocket to a 15 tooth. Will this affect the speedo or odometer? If so, in what way?

Thanks in advance!

[mister]

Speedo runs off the front wheel. A smaller front sprocket will only effect RPMs not speedo speed.

With sticky neutral-to-first, try rolling the bike forward or back as you click down into 1st.

Michael

[adidasguy]

I may have missed it, but is it the F with the full fairing? As a suggestion if it is the "F", parallel off of the wiring for the indicators and put super bright LEDs in the front black part of the fairing. Then you can see the indicators with your peripheral vision and they won't get washed out in the bright sun. I also added a left and right LED in the fairing (just by paralleling 12v LEDs off of the turn signal wires You can get clamp on in-line splices and tap-offs at Fry's or Radio Shack).

As for the stock lights, sounds like you've replaced some of the instruments already. You might have corrosion on the bulb contacts or something could be pinching and breaking the wiring to the indicators.

[kman]

Your neutral to first experience is similar to mine.  Sometimes I even give a little blip on the throttle timed with letting the clutch out.

As far as warming up, 5-10 min Idling (or screaming at 5k sitting still) seems about normal.  I find that it takes a lot longer to warm up idling than riding with the choke on.  I usually take off with the choke set to hold~2k and can take it off after about 5 blocks of riding.

I don't think that the number of bulbs you have replaced is normal at all.  Perhaps it is from corrosion or something as adidasguy mentioned.  It is very hard to see you're own turn signals out in the sun as they are not very bright and they are not intended to point at you.  If your green turn signal indicator is flashing at the right speed then you are probably just not seeing the turn signal.

[elader]

I run the choke at 3-4K for about a mile and then turn it off. I don't let the bike sit and scream.

The LEDs in the fairing is an EXCELLENT idea. I will have to do that.

[black and silver twin]

why do you guys run the choke at 3000+ rpm? just use enough choke to idle at 1600-1800, let it warm for a minute or two, then ride off with the choke still at 1800rpmish for afew miles. high rpm on a cold motor is very bad.

[pandymai]

high rpms are bad, but are low rpms?

when i start, i always pull the choke to full and crank. once firing, i let it sit until it starts shooting up towards 3-4k. then i just take off and take the choke off completely. itll usually idle low for a little while but it's still running to i dont mind it. should i make sure to keep the idle above 1200 by leaving the choke engaged or is this fine?

[Deros514]

If you've noticed on FI engines when you fire them up cold, the RPMs will shoot high for a few seconds(2k on most cars). It drops down to just above idle and will stay there until its completely warmed up.

When I start up the the bike, I set the choke to full. Once it fires  I'll wait a bit until the RPMs pick up. Adjust the choke to idle at 2k and ride off. As it warms up even more the choke will have to be reduced more and more. By the time I get to the 2nd or 3rd light I can turn it off completely.

High RPMs on a cold engine are bad because the clearances will be loose. Expect the most wear to cylinder and piston. Low RPMs are bad because there won't be enough oil circulating through.

[Elijafir]

My start up procedure: Just enough choke so that it will start. Adjust choke to maintain idle around 1200-1500rpm. Start riding. No choke after a mile. Maybe 2 miles in the winter. I don't like letting my cold engine race like that.  I also don't like letting it bog below 1000rpm.  Some of you may need to keep your choke on more than a mile or two.. I live in Tucson, Arizona where it's 100+ in the summer.  

The problem with incandescent lights on a motorcycle is the vibrations wear them out faster than normal. (Especially if you are warming up at 5000rpm!!) Replacing them with LEDs is a good preventative maintenance technique.  Otherwise, plan on keeping at LEAST one spare bulb for each bulb type.  Granted mine is a 95 with ~30k.. but when I bought it I had to replace: Headlight; Tach; Speedo; High Beam Indicator (twice, didn't use a 'new' bulb the first time) with-in the first 2,000 miles I put on it.  I know there is no problem with my wiring.. Just the hot filaments vibrating loose  or getting knocked loose on a bump.  That's not to say you DON'T have a wiring problem.. I just think it's unlikely.  How many miles do you have..? Are the roads you ride rough..?   A stock headlight bulb is about $12.. indicator bulbs are usually about $3 for two.  I haven't done turn signals yet, so I don't know about those. If you've had to replace the same bulb twice in under 1,000 miles I would look for a short in the wiring.  

Your neutral into gear issue is totally normal, IMO.  Every motorcycle I've ever ridden does it.  Like you said.. letting the clutch out about half way and then pulling it back in OR, I prefer, manually rolling the bike a little forward or backward will help get you into gear.  I first learned this on a Yamaha Blaster when I was 15.. I stalled it out up hill in 5th gear.. I kicked the lever down a bunch of times.. Started it up.. Stalled it..  Started it.. Stalled.. I did this for about ten minutes (kick starting it....) thinking there was something horribly wrong with my new Blaster and I was going to have a LONG walk home.  I finally realized I was in a high gear still.. and let the atv roll backwards while down shifting.. got it into first and off I went!  

As previously mentioned.. The Speedometer / Odometer are run off of the front wheel. So, the sprocket will not affect that gauge.  It will change the RPMS for a given speed/gear.. But it will not affect the accuracy of any readings.  (Using an other than stock size front tire WILL.)